New to serging and confused on one major concept.. I will try to be concise. I have a 4 thread serger. I do not understand what to do with threads that I won’t be using in a stitch. Example: My guide states for a two-thread overedge, 3.5mm :: Settings chart states the following: use right needle: Left needle thread tension is greyed out and completely blank:, Right needle thread tension states 0.5,: Upper Looper thread tension is also greyed out and completely blank Lower Looper thread states 6.0 Last column choices in chart title are either Upper looper or Converter, for this particular two thread overedge it states Converter. So I understand to remove left needle, set right needle thread tension to 0.5 and set lower looper thread to 6.0. I am also aware that these may not be exact and may need slight adjustments. What I don’t understand is what to do with left needle thread. Do I completely remove that thread? Do I leave the thread on and/or just set tension to 0? Do I do both, either? Same with the upper looper thread?
And last exactly what do they mean by looper or converter.?. What does this term refer to in general? . I also do not have any automatic buttons or slides to determine the upper looper or converter setting, as I have read elsewhere. I have spent hours trying to get these answers. Any help would be appreciated.

Missing

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  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Jan 12, 2012, 03.59 PMby patti-r

    What serger do you have? Another member may have more information on your machine. I remove the needle and upper looper threads. Do not set tension because if upper looper is converted to a spreader it is shut off, the upper looper, which is closest to the needle, will close the part where thread is put through when used for 3 or more threads serging, the left needle when removed becomes inactive so I just leave the setting alone.

    Some 4 thread machines have a little piece that has to be attached to convert upper looper I am not familiar with those.

    Google your serger for more information, may have some online demo.

    I have 5 and 8 thread Sergers/Overlockers, they have the upper looper converters inside machines just push lever to covert upper looper to spreader (blank or grey area).

  • Missing

    Jan 12, 2012, 10.36 PMby Michele Griffin Creamer

    Thank you for your timely reply: I have search this Euro pro everywhere , as my manual is so basic, it does not even give any stitch settings but I did find one online manual (free) that did tell me all the settings, but, as above, there were not explicit in what a blank meant. your answer has clarified this issue of knowing that the thread just needs to be completely remove. and do I set the “empty” tensions Dials to 0 or leave them where they were/are? I also found other instruction for the problem above relating to the convergence as opposed to looper. I still don’t understand the why and purpose but here are the insructions. After I clip and remove the upper looper thread Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion’s tale. If you can’t figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you’ll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left – it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.) She then States to decrease the needle tention? It appears this is the process as I have no automatic buttons nor a attachment. I have not had time to investigate the process, (I still need to define what the subsidiary looper is) but will shortly. Thank you so much for the helpful info, I want to define beginner for me is that I just opened the inside of the serger yesterday for the first time, It was already threaded with 4 threads. so just played around with tensions, the knife cutter, and the + or – on the differential feed dial, Then practiced threading the machine from start. So My specific question are: 1) do I turn the un-threaded tension knobs to 0 or just leave them alone? 2) Does converging mean to basically re route, re thread the thread to change the way it is woven with the other threads? and finally? 3)What does decreasing the needle tension mean, how do you do it and why would you do it. Thank you so much for your time. Michele

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Jan 12, 2012, 11.15 PMby patti-r

    Michele, Your very welcome!!!

    1) Okay to leave the unthreaded tension alone on both the needle thread and the upper looper thread.

    2) Do not have that machine do not understand. Do you mean converting to make different stitches.

    3) To decrease needle tension or looper tension turn dial slightly toward 0

    Found this Video may help on your lower looper threading.

    http://www.ehow.com/video_4437044_thread-looper-serger-sewing-machine.html

    Not your serger but check the threading on lower looper sounds like what you mentioned above:

    http://www.singerco.com/uploads/assets/pdf/14SH654_threading.pdf

    Hope this helps a little maybe someone has the machine could be more helpful!!!

    Patti

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jan 13, 2012, 09.11 AMby katexxxxxx

    Sergers are a lot more complex than ordinary sewing machines in some respect, but less so in others. They don’t really do different stitches, just variations of the same, and the way you get the different effects is by a combination of the number of threads used (2, 3, or 4), by differing the stitch length, the cutting width, and the thread tension.

    When you are setting the machine up to stitch, I find that I START with the settings recommended in my instruction book, and tweak them until I get the perfect look. If there is no needle or thread to use in a particular thread path, then completely remove it. I tend to dial that tension setting back to zero just as a reminder, but there is no specific requirement to do so.

    Now that you have the manual, may I suggest that you thread the machine up with threads that are the same colour as the the different colours on the dials, and do some experimenting. Try out all the different stitch variations in the manual and you’ll be able to see what each thread does more easily.

    With a serger you must expect to have to adjust the tension each time you sew with it. It will require different settings for different fabrics as well as for different stitches.

    As a supplement to the manual, may I suggest this lovely book: The Complete Serger Handbook, by Chris James. It is my GO TO book for anything not covered by the manuals for my sergers (I have a Brother 1034D, which has a reasonably good manual, and a Bernina 1150MDA, which also has a reasonably good manual). Once you have worked through your manual, experiment with some of the ideas in the book. :)

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jan 13, 2012, 09.11 AMby katexxxxxx

    Sergers are a lot more complex than ordinary sewing machines in some respect, but less so in others. They don’t really do different stitches, just variations of the same, and the way you get the different effects is by a combination of the number of threads used (2, 3, or 4), by differing the stitch length, the cutting width, and the thread tension.

    When you are setting the machine up to stitch, I find that I START with the settings recommended in my instruction book, and tweak them until I get the perfect look. If there is no needle or thread to use in a particular thread path, then completely remove it. I tend to dial that tension setting back to zero just as a reminder, but there is no specific requirement to do so.

    Now that you have the manual, may I suggest that you thread the machine up with threads that are the same colour as the the different colours on the dials, and do some experimenting. Try out all the different stitch variations in the manual and you’ll be able to see what each thread does more easily.

    With a serger you must expect to have to adjust the tension each time you sew with it. It will require different settings for different fabrics as well as for different stitches.

    As a supplement to the manual, may I suggest this lovely book: The Complete Serger Handbook, by Chris James. It is my GO TO book for anything not covered by the manuals for my sergers (I have a Brother 1034D, which has a reasonably good manual, and a Bernina 1150MDA, which also has a reasonably good manual). Once you have worked through your manual, experiment with some of the ideas in the book. :)

  • Missing

    Jan 13, 2012, 10.16 PMby Michele Griffin Creamer

    my main issue is still a mystery, but I believe I have the right terminology to finally clear this up .. I hope!!! I know how to thread, I know about how to set tension when thread is there. and now I know that if a thread is removed to set tension in the empty tension slot to 0.. I do know above as I did color code the thread to the dial colors. YES YES YES.. I need to know how to convert for another stitch, particularly a flat lock stitch with 2 threads. the machine listed here http://www.singerco.com/uploads/assets/pdf/14SH654_threading.pdf. is the same as my machine. What I am understanding is that when I convert to a 2 thread, it is askiing me to reroute the looper thread I am supposed to use. Is what I believe in this last sentence correct? If so, I do not understand how to do this, if I do not understand. PLS. explain just explain the why and the how. TY TY TY. Michele. PS thank you for the suggestions so far.

  • Missing

    Jan 13, 2012, 10.20 PMby Michele Griffin Creamer

    This seems to be the answer on how to convert my machine to 2 threads but I cannot figure out these instructions. Below this sentence is the verbatim answer I found:: After I clip and remove the upper looper thread Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion’s tale. If you can’t figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you’ll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left – it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Jan 14, 2012, 12.13 AMby patti-r

    Michele,

    Before your post I really never knew that Euro Pro made sergers, I have not owned a 4 thread machine for over 25 years and they had a lever and a different needle plate for the 2 thread stitch rolled hem function.

    I love my other 2 sergers both sew 2 to 5 threads, one has a cover stitch.

    My 8 thread Evolution (was a gift) has a Subsidiary Looper located on upper looper, but it justs flips/swings moves to left up and over and locks in the upper looper just like you said.

    “They want you to rotate to lower the upper looper so you do not break the Subsidiary Looper when you swing it over”..

    If you google “Baby Lock Evolution threading guide pdf” will show you the Subsidiary Looper you do not have to down load whole thing just want to show you the Sub/Looper.

    Maybe Kate has more infomation she gave you a few tips above.

  • Missing

    Jan 14, 2012, 01.58 AMby Michele Griffin Creamer

    ok I am just finished with this. Although I have the part that lifts uf and over to the left there is no way it will go anywhere near the looper so that I can slide it on. even after bring my upper looper to its lowest point. Is it possible I just don’t have one on this 4 thread and just cannot use 2 threads only My very basic manual shows me three stitches: Rolled hemming, Picot edging and then narrow hemming and the settings for those only. It does not mention anything about a subsidiary looper. The direction I have written above came from someone who said they had the same model as mine a europro 534dx. I will call my mother in law tomorrow and ask her if she remembers about this machine as she handed down to me. If not and worse comes to worse, I will bring the machine to a local sewing center and ask them to help me. I have been at this going on 3 days and am ready to pull my hair out as I have already purchased a pattern and fabric for my first project and was hoping to dedicate Sat. and Sun. to it. It’ll be a shame that I have to wait until next weekend Again ty for your time.

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Jan 14, 2012, 02.26 AMby patti-r

    Might be better to have some who knows the machine check it out. If it gave directions for a 2 thread it should have it, I checked the model but did not give much info except 4 thread with extra feet.

    Let us know how it goes, got my fingers crossed for you…

  • Missing

    Mar 2, 2013, 04.28 PMby Faith Marrett

    @ michelle where did u find the Eruo Pro serger manual online i have been looking but am unable to find please help

  • Missing

    Mar 26, 2013, 12.11 PMby Lucy Burda

    Just to note that I think in Europe the Euro-Pro 534DX is sold as Baby Lock Prestige 750DS (and note UK terminology of ‘overlocker’ instead of US word ‘serger’ if searching online). This might help with finding manuals, instructions etc.

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