Burda Style For people who sew

Hi guys,

I am going to try for the first time to make my own pattern using a dress that I already have and I really love. I would really like some advice on how to make a pattern using existing clothing. I think I will figure out how to trace ‘the outline’ as accurately as possible, but what to do with pleats and darts? Do I first draw the outline of a pattern piece on paper and then add in the darts? Do I just have to cut in the pattern paper at the point where the dart should be and pull the edges away from each other so you get a V shape and then trace this onto your fabric? Or is there a smarter way? If anyone has some tips and tricks I would really love to hear them. Also if someone has a link to a clear tutorial on this, that would also be awesome! Thanks in advance!

Nov 15, 2009, 10.01 PM by susanne2011

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4 Posts

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  Nov 16, 2009, 03.22 AMby calicocouture

  You’ll have to figure out where you want the dart to be placed, and also figure out how much it’ll be taken in when sewn, and add that amount back to the pattern.

  For a dart, (I’m no expert, I just play around with making patterns) I would trace the shape first, then draw the dart triangle onto the pattern. Now figure out how much will be taken in from the dart, and add that to the edge, before the seam allowance.

  Make sure you give yourself seam allowances! The hardest part about tracing clothes that aren’t taken apart, if making sure everything is the correct size. I’d suggest using a muslin first before cutting into any nice fabrics just in case.
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  Nov 16, 2009, 05.54 AMby alchemycedar

  Create slopers, or pattern blocks. These are the basis for flat pattern drafting. You can purchase commercial sloper patterns that can be altered to fit your body, or make your own. Start by creating a skirt pattern block; it is the simplest clothing pattern sloper.

  Draw a rectangle the desired skirt length plus 1 cm by your hip measurement, divided by 2 plus approximately 10 cm of wearing ease. Draw a vertical line in the center of this rectangle and a horizontal line 24 cm from the top to mark the hip line. Using your waist measurement, mark waist points 5 cm to the right and left of the center vertical line and draw a curved line from hip to waist. Create a gentle curve at the center front of the skirt pattern block and draft in darts on the front and back of your skirt sloper to make the pattern block fit your actual waist measurement (see references below). You will use similar methods to make slopers for pants and bodices.

  Make sure your slopers fit. Cut the sloper from muslin, adding seam allowances. Baste together and try on for fit. Adjust as needed. A well-fitting sloper is critical to create clothing patterns.

  Use your sloper pattern as the basis for flat pattern drafting. The sloper provides you with a clear picture of the body you are dressing, thereby allowing you to make garments that fit perfectly. Trace several copies of your sloper to make it easy to slash and spread as needed.

  Place your traced sloper pattern on a fresh sheet of tracing or tissue paper. Slash and spread pieces, being sure to keep the pattern itself intact as you pivot pieces to change the shape of your pattern. Pin your sloper pattern carefully into place and trace your new clothing pattern (see references below). Be sure to add seam allowances before you cut out your pattern.

  suitsmen || mens suits
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  Nov 16, 2009, 11.08 AMby katexxxxxx

  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Making-Patterns-Finished-Clothes-Benussen/dp/0806957042/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1258369663&sr=8-3-fkmr0

  You need this book!
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  Nov 16, 2009, 12.13 PMby maha1965

  i think first you have to draw a basic pattern start with a rectangle with the measurment of the dress the front is wider from the back with 1.5 cm then draw the neck line and the arm hole as you see it on the dress then the shoulder line follow the cuts on the front and the back according to the design of the dress and try to draw it on the pattern it won’t be easy so try it first on muslin to see the result if you have pattern books it will be more useful wish you luck