Burda Style For people who sew

I can make long sleeves fit on my mannequin just fine. The problem is when a person wears the garment and specifically when the person raises their arms: the bodice side pulls up out of the waistband.

This seems like a reasonable situation to me but I can only find fitting solutions as if your arms were always at your sides.

How is a long sleeve / arm scythe / bodice front & back (sloper) drafted so the bodice stays tucked in with full motion of the arms?

Jan 28, 2013, 02.40 AM by drwizard

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  Jan 28, 2013, 10.38 AMby Sabrina Wharton-Brown

  You could try a gusset. Kenneth D. King did an article in Threads magazine (an old one, I’m not sure which) on how to add one.
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  Jan 30, 2013, 11.40 PMby harrietbazley

  I’ve been told that to get more ease of movement you need tighter armholes: make your armholes too deep, and every time you raise your arms you are pulling up a wodge of bodice as well (where the bottom of the arm joins the side of the garment).

  I made the mistake of enlarging the armholes on a vintage knitwear pattern once and had exactly the same problem.
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  Jan 31, 2013, 10.37 AMby drwizard

  Tighter armholes is the direction I am headed. I think that the shoulder needs to be shortened (and the sleeve cap taller) and the armscythe smaller. I also think that the armsythe needs to be rotated forward to more accurately center on where your arm is when it is raised. This presents problems when your arm is lowered. I was hoping someone knew about adding a pleat or the like at the rear side of the armscythe to allow this. Or something else that I am just not aware of. Seems silly that we fuss to make clothes that fit perfect, but only if we stand like a mannequin. I know, that’s why active wear is all sleeveless and / or made with Lycra. Neither is acceptable to my client in this situation.