Burda Style For people who sew

Hi,

I just made a pair of jeans and they crease a lot right under my butt. What makes them do this? Is it fixable? I used the Anita jeans pattern but took it in quite a lot cos I wanted them tighter.

Jodi

Sep 30, 2009, 03.08 PM by jodika

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8 Posts

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  Oct 13, 2009, 05.34 PMby tsuyako

  Hi, You wont be able to fix that on the pair of jeans you have already finished however you can make the change on the pattern. Basically all you need to do is pin out the access material and then transfer those markings to you pattern. It might take some finagaling (sp?) but you need to remove that pinned out area from your pattern, then simply make a mock of the area and try it on. The other thing you may need to do, which is hard to know if you need to without a picture, is reshape the curve of the back crotch seam. Hope that helps Tsuya
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  Oct 13, 2009, 06.43 PMby jodika

  Thank you! I’m gonna give this a try on my next pair. This pair frustrated me so much…
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  Oct 13, 2009, 06.46 PMby grovestreet

  Hello,

  When you try them on, is it really tight, flat creasing or saggy creasing? When you make the change on your pattern, you can make a dart (the diamond shaped kind) out from underneath your behind onto your upper thigh to help with this, but I’m betting your crotch is too long…course the dart will emphasize your assets.

  If you want to make a jean pattern tighter, you might want to take your total amount that you want to take them in and then slash and overlap the pattern where the CF and CB darts would be, and nip a bit off the sides so that the reduction is evenly distributed. Then I would compare your full hip (butt) and upper/full thigh measurements to the pattern to see if you ought to take in the legs down the thighs.

  Actually, scratch all that. When you pull the jeans up slightly in the back, does it help? If so, seam rip the waistband, re-pin and stitch. You might need to take the sides seams in right at the uppermost thigh area too.
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  Oct 13, 2009, 06.46 PMby grovestreet

  Hello,

  When you try them on, is it really tight, flat creasing or saggy creasing? When you make the change on your pattern, you can make a dart (the diamond shaped kind) out from underneath your behind onto your upper thigh to help with this, but I’m betting your crotch is too long…course the dart will emphasize your assets.

  If you want to make a jean pattern tighter, you might want to take your total amount that you want to take them in and then slash and overlap the pattern where the CF and CB darts would be, and nip a bit off the sides so that the reduction is evenly distributed. Then I would compare your full hip (butt) and upper/full thigh measurements to the pattern to see if you ought to take in the legs down the thighs.

  Actually, scratch all that. When you pull the jeans up slightly in the back, does it help? If so, seam rip the waistband, re-pin and stitch. You might need to take the sides seams in right at the uppermost thigh area too.
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  Oct 13, 2009, 08.06 PMby jodika

  Pulling up the back helps quite a bit. The waistband is way too high at the back anyway. Stupid jeans! They make my butt look so flat. Definitely not the most flattering thing I have ever sewn…. I have already used this pattern to make shorts and they looked good! http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/who-wears-short-shorts? Ok, so I brought the waistband down in the shorts but still! I have quite a bit of this fabric left so I might try recutting the back legs, maybe with a seam down the middle of the leg. It’s just so much work….
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  Oct 13, 2009, 09.49 PMby tsuyako

  Do you have a picture of this? It would help quite alot if there was a picture to go off of.
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  Oct 15, 2009, 10.25 PMby jodika

  I took some pics but I don’t wanna put them up here as a project or anything. It really looks that bad!
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  Oct 15, 2009, 11.00 PMby elainemay

  The boards on Pattern Review hat a lot of threads about sewing jeans and fixing fit problems. This thread may be of use:

  http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/40552/2

  If that doesn’t help, you might try the other jeans threads there- they’re very informative.

  I think that there are a couple of things at play here— first, jeans that are designed to fit slim through the hip and thigh are always going to have some amount of wrinkling at the back under the butt when you are standing. If you didn’t have those, you wouldn’t be able to sit. If the wrinkling is excessive, it might actually be an indication that the jeans are too tight (unintuitive, right?) — in general, horizontal wrinkles in pants are an indication that you don’t have enough width somewhere. Vertical or diamond-shaped wrinkles are often an indication of excess length somewhere.