Hi! I’m making a jacket for someone. Everything fits ok, except the back seems too narrow. When she extends her arms in front of her, there is strain on the part from one armpit seam to the other. The back of the jacket is princess line style. I had to adapt it at first to make it fit her back, but I guess I took it in too much. How do I make it a bit wider and still fit her back’s shape? Thanks!

Dec 15, 2011, 09.11 AM by Laura Bolčina

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3 Posts

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Dec 15, 2011, 09.46 AMby sewingfan1

    Is there enough seam allowance to let it out a bit/make the curve in the seams around the shoulder blades less defined?

    I’m making a dress with princess seams back and front at the moment. Never done them in the back before so I hope I don’t hit the same problem :-0

    1 Reply
    • Dsc03784__b3_profile_thumb

      Dec 15, 2011, 10.00 AMby Laura Bolčina

      I have enough of seam allowance there, but I’m afraid the shape of the back won’t be the same.. I guess I’ll have to try it anyway.

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Dec 15, 2011, 06.51 PMby patti-r

    There are two types of princess style, one goes into the armscye (armhole), the other goes into the shoulder. Either give you more seams to let out or take in. Most important thing to remember is wearing ease. http://butterick.mccall.com/ease-chart-pages-456.php

    Check out KateXXXXXX measurement chart #14 on back of model:

    http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htm

    Make the seams allowances smaller, tapering to above center of armhole or into if princess line goes there, as shown on Kate’s # 14.

    Try this on the Princess and side seams first. By doing this it should keep the center back seam still hanging correctly.

    Hopefully this will add the wearing ease you need.

    Do not know the types of alterations you made to the pattern kind of hard to suggest quick fixes, other concerns would be the sleeve caps and depth of armhole, other fitting issues sometimes cause pulling in the back, check a sewing book for information.

    Hoping others may have more input.

  • Dsc03784__b3_profile_large

    Dec 29, 2011, 06.23 PMby Laura Bolčina

    Thank you! I did as patti-r recommended – made the seam allowances a bit smaller, tapering to above center of the armhole. It turned out great!

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