Burda Style For people who sew

hello everyone,
I’m planning to sew a skirt from an older burdastyle issue (9/2008, Mod.124).
It has got beautiful pleatsmainly in the middle front and the same pleats on the back piece (it’s the same piece for front and back).
Now…I do not want to have ‘middle pleats’ at the back, just a simple non-pleated backskirt that fits to the front skirt and waistband properly.

I’m thinking about achieving a simple back piece by measuring and fitting but are there any extras I should take care of?

From the patterns on here this one comes closest to it:
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/a-plus-a-line-by-twinkle-by-wenlan

I would appreciate any comments, Thank you!

Dec 30, 2012, 05.27 PM by freaky-philomeen

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  Dec 30, 2012, 05.50 PMby mskelly

  I would cut my front pattern piece according to the size I need including the pleats, and then grade DOWN (make smaller) the back part/piece of the skirt ,to take into consideration that you will not be using any pleats to gather in the skirt back piece to match with the front.

  You may need to up skill yourself on how to grade patterns eg make them smaller and bigger to adjust the back part to match the front, as I think possibly that the back will remain too big for the fount if you take away the pleats.

  I made a Burda style skirt called ’’marie’’ with back and font plates and also had to do a bit of grading to get the right fit. Search for the pattern here it may be useful and take a look at the below link on grading, this is the resource that really helped me it’s a useful skill!

  Good luck

  Have a look here http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/page/all

  1 Reply

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    Jan 1, 2013, 06.48 PMby freaky-philomeen

    thank you mskelly, I bookmarked the link, might come in handy soon!

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  Dec 31, 2012, 10.10 AMby sewingfan1

  Or would it work if you cut out your front piece using the pattern piece as is and then for the back piece, fold the pleats in place on the paper pattern piece and tape them flat before pinning it to your fabric and cutting round it? You’d have to be careful that there was still enough ‘give’ in the skirt for easy movement and to cover your rear.

  2 Replies

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    Jan 1, 2013, 06.58 PMby freaky-philomeen

    thank you sewingfan1, yes, that is just what I had in mind. I think I’m going to try…with lots and lots of seam allowance…I think I’ll cut the front piece, pin the pleats in place and before cutting the back piece I will ‘arrange’ it in front of the mirror, so I’ll have some vague guidelines for the width.
    By taking measurements from other skirts I hope I can do it.

    …adventure is part of the fun, isn’t it ;))

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    Jan 2, 2013, 10.10 PMby sewingfan1

    Have fun! It’s always good fun to experiment and you always learn something that way

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  Jan 2, 2013, 09.08 PMby katexxxxxx

  Fold out and pin closed the pleats. Use.

  2 Replies

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    Jan 5, 2013, 07.54 PMby freaky-philomeen

    Thank you Kate. I somehow was in doubt it could be this easy…

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    Jan 6, 2013, 12.25 AMby katexxxxxx

    Works most of the time. :)