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I’m currently working on the pattern pieces for Burdastyle pattern #115 (Plaid wool jacket). The instructions state that 1.5cm should be added to seams and edges, while the hem and sleeve hems need 4cm. I’m wondering, does this 4cm include the seam allowance needed to attach the hem to the lining or do I need to add an additional 1.5cm to that?

The lining pieces are to be taken from the main pieces: the front piece minus the facing and the back piece minus the vent facing and neck facing but with an ease pleat of 2cm at centre back. Does this mean I should add another 2cm to the centre back seam along with the seam allowance? Here are the instructions on constructing the lining:
“On lining backs, stitch allowances of centre seam together above vent, 1cm from edge. For the ease pleat, stitch along the centre back at the top and bottom (above vent), each approx. 5cm long, and baste pleat in between. Press pleat onto right back. Stitch darts and seams of lining. Set in sleeve linings”.

I have to confess, this makes to no sense to me. Does anyone know what this means and where the extra 2cm for the pleat should be added? I’d really appreciate some wisdom on this, it really is taking me longer than it should have.
Thanks in advance!


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  • Missing

    Jul 2, 2013, 04.17 AMby natashyah

    I have the same question, so I was very disappointed to see that no one answered. What did veesta do? My current thought is to add 3/4 in to seam allowance for center rear lining, as it says: “minus widh of facing (there is no facing on back) without vent allowance and with an ease pleat of approximately 2cm (3/4 inch) at centre back” as part of lining cutting instructions!

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    Jul 2, 2013, 01.41 PMby katensew

    It is usual to make a pleat on the centre back of the lining so that when worn the jacket has some ease across the back. So place the lining CB about 1.5cm from the fold when cutting out. This is only stitched for the depth of the seam allowance ( 1.5cm ) and pressed one way to form a pleat. Or if the lining is shaped then add an extra 1.5 cms. to the CB seam. Stitch the original seam allowance and the extra 1.5cms is basted , fitted in and the basting then removed. The depth of the hem on bottom dege and sleeve edge needs to be quite deep- at least 4cms for the outer fabric – obviously not so on the inner fabric - but it doesn’t matter when cutting out for after fitting the excess can be removed in both cases – BUT always make the outer garment hems deeper than the lining – allow also for “ease of hanging” so that the lining does not ‘drag’. So when slip hemming the two edges together leave a little up and over allowance on the lining to prevent this. It is difficult to describe and I hope that I have gone some way to explaining.

    1 Reply
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      Jul 3, 2013, 09.05 AMby JillStraw

      Katensew, your explanation makes complete sense. As i said, the drawings in the link i posted below really brought everything together for me – but most anyone should be able to understand the ease pleat concept from what you’ve explained. We have such a great community here. Thanks for your help!

  • Missing

    Jul 2, 2013, 02.39 PMby debrarae

    I confess I’ve never pleated the lining of a garment before. But I have done pleats in the front, back, and all throughout a garment.

    On pleats in general, I baste the hem of the fabric first (whether for one pleat, or a whole slew of them). Then I measure the pleat to ensure I have enough fabric. Then I iron the pleat, and move on with the rest of the garment. Whether the pleat is in the front, back, or all through the garment …this works for me.

    However I love katensew’s tip, and will be using that for future garments.

  • Image_large

    Jul 3, 2013, 08.53 AMby JillStraw

    I had the same question, I’m currently making the 03/2013 Boucle Jacket. This links to a great overview of linings, ease and how to incorporate into all areas of a jacket lining. Hope this helps everyone as much as it has me – the drawings helped me put it together in my head – i’m such a visual learner! The site is called Unique Techniques.


    1 Reply
    • Missing

      Jul 3, 2013, 11.35 AMby natashyah

      Thanks all! I stopped working on my boy’s velvet jacket after posting waiting and hoping some one would answer- and you did! Thanks so much to all of you! It all makes sense now!!

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