I’m currently working on the pattern pieces for Burdastyle pattern #115 (Plaid wool jacket). The instructions state that 1.5cm should be added to seams and edges, while the hem and sleeve hems need 4cm. I’m wondering, does this 4cm include the seam allowance needed to attach the hem to the lining or do I need to add an additional 1.5cm to that?
The lining pieces are to be taken from the main pieces: the front piece minus the facing and the back piece minus the vent facing and neck facing but with an ease pleat of 2cm at centre back. Does this mean I should add another 2cm to the centre back seam along with the seam allowance? Here are the instructions on constructing the lining:
“On lining backs, stitch allowances of centre seam together above vent, 1cm from edge. For the ease pleat, stitch along the centre back at the top and bottom (above vent), each approx. 5cm long, and baste pleat in between. Press pleat onto right back. Stitch darts and seams of lining. Set in sleeve linings”.
I have to confess, this makes to no sense to me. Does anyone know what this means and where the extra 2cm for the pleat should be added? I’d really appreciate some wisdom on this, it really is taking me longer than it should have.
Thanks in advance!