Burda Style For people who sew

Now I have cut out all the parts of the pattern.
I have a question about the interfacing.
The sewinglanguage is hard for me in swedish and even more difficult in English.
Should I Iron interfacing on all the waistband pieces or just half of it?
In the last case, witch part, the outside or the inside.

First and foremost, I apologize for any language mistakes because I’m from Sweden.
I am 158 cm tall and is about to draw the pattern on the skirt Jenny.
The pattern is adapted to 168 cm.
Should I short everything in the bottom, or divide it in both places?
I also have problems with my waist is 66 cm (storlek 36) and my hip is 101cm (size 40) how to adapt to it.
This is the first garment I ever sew so I’m grateful for any kind of help.

Fia

Jul 14, 2011, 09.15 PM by vackrafia

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4 Posts

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  Jul 15, 2011, 03.19 PMby josephina

  Waistband – yes just iron interface on one side. Usually it is the inside.

  I’m not sure what you mean by shortening in both places – usually there is a line to shorten or lengthen a pattern. In most skirts it is a little below the hip line.

  I have the same problem with hip and waist sizing. If there is a dart on each side at the back, I usually replace it with 2 darts on either side of the original one, cutting the waist (or bodice in a dress) to the smaller size. If this isn’t an option, I will usually cut the waist to the smaller size and then taper the seam line out to the larger size at the hip. I hope this is clear enough.

  Good luck Josey
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  Jul 15, 2011, 04.53 PMby vackrafia

  thank you for your answear. You helped me to get this going…

  What does “neaten the allowances and press open” mean?

  Does it mean that i should stich it apart? or do a sigsag?

  is seam 3 a stretch seam on every machine? the pattern says, use seam tre. Mine is a stretch.

  hope you can understand me.

  2 Replies

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    Jul 15, 2011, 10.22 PMby katexxxxxx

    Neatening the edges of the seam allowances with either an overlocker or a zigzag stitch stops it fraying away to nothing. Here is some basic information about sseam types and seam finishing:

    http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_types.htm

    http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_finishing.htm

    Different machines have different stitch patterns, all labeled as their maker prefers.

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    Sep 4, 2011, 10.41 PMby ichigogirl

    neaten the allowances and press open: klipp ner sömsmånerna (till cirka 1cm istället för 1,5, gör detta efter att du provat att kjolen inte är för liten!) och stryk på dem från insidan så att sömsmånerna hamnar på varsin sida av sömmen. Pressa sömsmånerna öppna på insidan alltså.
    If you’re a total beginner, buy a book about basic sewing, it makes it so much easier to begin with!

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  Aug 30, 2011, 05.21 PMby ruby12345

  I also need help with Jenny skirt!

  Im stuck on the lining. when do you actually attach it because it tells you to pin but it doesnt say to stitch. this made me think maybe I should wait until after waistband is finished but it doesnt mention lining again. and do I just attach at the top and the zipper opening.

  1 Reply

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    Aug 30, 2011, 05.24 PMby katexxxxxx

    One usually makes up the lining and the body of the skirt, puts them together and then attaches the waistband. Then you sew thee lining to the zipper tape.

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  Sep 4, 2011, 02.59 PMby ruby12345

  OK I have one more question about this hopefully someone can help!

  I have just stitched the waistband, instructions say to stitch across the right side of the waistband. I have done this and it looks awful and spoils the skirt, when I look at the pictures of other peoples Jenny skirt I do not see any stitching across the front. Can someone who has made Jenny advise how they enclosed waistband at the end! Thanks!!

  1 Reply

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    Sep 4, 2011, 04.59 PMby katexxxxxx

    Do the instructions show you where to put the stitching? It might be right up close to the seam line, ‘stitching in the ditch’, so doesn’t really show on the outside…

    Yup! That’s it! Make the waistband facing VERY SLIGHTLY longer than the outside and stitch along the seam line from the outside. Your thread needs to be a REALLY good match to the fabric.