Burda Style For people who sew

I’m making a muslin for the Cap Sleeve Dress 130. Step 5 instructs: “Stitch shoulder seams, beginning and ending exactly at marked neck edge.”. The neck is not marked other than my chalked seam line and a small number 1, so I’m unclear where to start and stop. I ended up sewing across the shoulder seam from the outer edge over the allowance up until the seam line, stopping where it starts to curve into the neck.

The bigger problem I’m having is with the cap sleeve instructions which read: “Lay sleeve linings right sides together with sleeves and stitch lower edges together. Lay sleeve linings down and stitch to seam allowances, close to seam. Lay sleeve linings wrong sides together with sleeves and baste upper edges together. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, above markings, easing sleeve caps.”

Initially, I’m not quite clear which are the lower edges and which are the upper edges?

Then, I’m unclear what “stitch to seam allowances, close to seam” means. Why wouldn’t I just sew on the seam line? And, am I stitching around the whole sleeve? Or am I stitching them to the seam allowance of the armhole in preparation to flip it inside out?

And, then after I’ve stitched the linings to the sleeves, rights sides together, how to I lay the linings wrong sides together with the sleeves? In my mind, they’ve been sewed together…

I imagine once I understand how this comes together, the instructions will make perfect sense, but right now I’m baffled. Any help would be really appreciated.

I’ve tried to link to a photo of the pattern part below. I’ve marked the straight edge and labeled the parts A, B, C, D for reference. If someone can first tell me if the upper edges are A or B? and lower C or D?

From Burda Help

My first attempt was to sew the straight edge on the seam line, right sides facing together:

From Burda Help

From Burda Help

Here’s also an image of the shoulders as I sewed them. Not sure if this is correct.

From Burda Help

Close up, right shoulder:

From Burda Help

Sep 16, 2012, 09.09 AM by gregorpb