Burda Style For people who sew

I’ve been learning to make flat patterns from scratch (making the blocks, working on them to make the pattern) for a while now, and I’m pretty onto it but not totally experienced yet. I’ve never tried my handing at making a pattern from draping, but I’ve got a dress idea that I’m not sure how to flat make the pattern for. I’ve included a crudely paint-drawn sketch with some design notes here: http://tinypic.com/r/33jgrxe/5

The bodice and the skirt I’m totally fine with, however I’m not entirely sure how to do the waistband or the bodice pleat feature. Would you guys recommend trying to drape the pattern or make a flat pattern and lots of toiles? How would you do it, and has anyone got any tips or tutorials they could share?

I should’ve been trying to figure this out weeks ago, because I’ve got loads of projects on the go and I need this for the 3rd of December, but oh well, I’ll learn eventually!

Nov 27, 2011, 02.17 AM by gatheringstitches

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  Nov 27, 2011, 03.16 AMby mlssfshn

  I would use a heavy interfacing or wallpaper lining first in muslin and figure out the shape and sizeof the piece needed by draping. The cumber-bun should be easy to find a pattern for or drape as well.
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  Nov 27, 2011, 04.31 AMby patti-r

  After you work out the pleating and draping details, make sure you use boning in the dress and waist stays to hold it all up.

  Cute design, as missfshin said do the details in a trial muslin, remember it has to curve over the bust and lay on to your chest, some trail and error.

  IMHO the snaps may take away from the front of the pretty design you have created. Good luck.
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  Nov 27, 2011, 10.48 AMby gatheringstitches

  Really adding the feature of snaps was just to clarify. I plan on putting buttons on the top as I have some super cute ones that match the fabric I chose really well, but I understand what you mean. Trial and error was the plan pretty much, but I never thought about using a cumberbund pattern!
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  Nov 27, 2011, 03.03 PMby patti-r

  This would need adapted but it is pleated cummerbund and will give you a few tips for construction the only thing it does not have boning: http://www.ehow.com/how_7393808_pleat-cummerbund.html

  Another tip if using some type of satin do not use iron on interfacing on fashion fabric.

  Please post the finished dress in Projects very interested in seeing your final results.

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    Nov 28, 2011, 08.26 AMby gatheringstitches

    Will do! Not sure if I’ll manage to get it done for this weekend, but I have another event I want it for the following weekend, so should be up in the next fortnight :)

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  Nov 28, 2011, 05.42 PMby thunderlily

  Firstly congratulations on your design, it is very stylish and I can’t wait to see it posted on projects! You have some great advice here already. I would just add that it would be wise to think of the grain of the fabric too while you are making this. Not that there is exactly a ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way, but you may want to consider whether you want the grain to be vertical on both, horizontal on both or the cummerbund horizontal and the bodice pleats vertical. This is especially important if the fabric has a nap.