I am hemming a medium-weight cotton dress w/ gathered waist that is very similar to the Burda Pattern #104.
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I folded it under 2 inches and am doing a vertical hemming stitch to make it invisible from the outside.

However, after I started hemming, I noticed the fabric is not hanging nicely at the bottom. The hem is bulky and almost looks like it is puckering or pulling where my hem stitches are. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? Thanks!

Missing

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  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Mar 18, 2013, 09.15 AMby sewingfan1

    have you tried ironing it in place first? Or, if there is an A line to the pattern pieces then maybe you could slightly change the angle inwards on the hem allowance bit when cutting out or cut it straight downwards as if the hem allowance follows the same outwards gradation it would have more fabric on the hem than on the lower edge of the skirt that you are stitching it to. Not sure it makes sense written but if you cut out an A line piece of paper and then fold up a couple of cms on the bottom edge as though that’s the hem you should see what I mean

  • Missing

    Mar 18, 2013, 09.33 AMby arisaid

    You could gather the hem slightly to take up the bulk and make sure you iron it carefully. Sometimes a good idea to sew lace onto the hem edge before stitching hem, after you have taken in some of the fullness with gathering.

  • Missing

    Mar 27, 2013, 12.36 PMby aka4515

    I would suggest to overlock/serge the raw edges with zigzag stitch or overlock stitch or use your serger if you have one and do a single fold hem if it’s a medium knit fabric. Although I have yet to sew with medium knits I would assume the weight of the fabric may cause the dress to drape awkwardly. Or you can maybe try and use maybe a light weight interfacing for the hem as a suggestion.

  • 20130625_7_60s_large

    Mar 27, 2013, 02.33 PMby Debbie Allingham

    cut bias strips from the same (or contrasting) fabric, about an inch or two wide and join together until you have a long enough length to hem the skirt. Sew with a narrow allowance to the bottom of the hem, then press under – the bias cut will allow it to fit closely to the skirt, then blind hem stitch in place. Being cut on the bias, it shouldn’t fray. Or, attach stretch lace trim to the raw edge and press the hem up. Attach the lace rather than the lower edge of the fabric when stitching the hem. Hope this helps!

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