Burda Style For people who sew

Just recently I’ve been attempting to make clothes from patterns after many years of just sort of improvising. I measure myself carefully and select my size from the chart, cutting meticulously along the proper dottted lines and paying attention to seam allowances, but everything I make ends up being enormous. I don’t understand what’s going wrong? The sizes that correspond with my measurements on the chart are sizes that are way too large for me in the store, but I guess I thought there was a different numbering system when it came to sewing your own, as opposed to buying at, say, the Gap. Anyone have some advice for me?

Kirsten.

Aug 20, 2009, 02.00 PM by kirstenpickle

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21 Posts

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  Aug 20, 2009, 02.19 PMby mickeygirl

  I get that problem with tops. I was reading somewhere that you need to measure around your chest just under your arms. Then you compare that to your bust measurement. If your bust measurement is two inches or less than the under arm measurement, you use the bust measurement to choose the size. Patterns are drafted for B cups. If you have a more than two inch difference, or larger than a B cup, you use the underarm measurement to choose the size — then you have to adjust the pattern for a larger cup size.

  The larger sizes also have longer shoulders, long shoulder to waist, shoulder to bust, larger armholes so if you are choosing a too large size — you will not get a good fit over your bone frame.

  For skirts — use the hip measurement to select the size unless it is a really full skirt. It is easier to take in a waist at the darts or more gathering that to try to fit the hips.
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  Aug 20, 2009, 02.36 PMby Ichigogirl

  I do have a B-cup, but when I used commercial patterns I still had the same problem as kirstenpickle.

  It almost made me stop sewing (tents are no fun, neither is endless taking—clothes-in-sessions), so I took a pattern-contruction-course and started making my own patterns instead. Great!

  Now with Burdastyle I want to start using commercial patterns again. I’m making a toile for a JJ at the moment and I can’t wait to see if it’s the right size (I’m almost exactily a BS sz 36 according to measurements, but I always buy sz34 in the shops…) or too big. Interesting!

  My advice would be to always make a simple toile (or muslin) first, to check the size. If it turns out way too big, ignore the charts’s recommendations on size. There are muslin/toile-tutorials on the internet. If it is the right size, you can use the toile to achieve the perfect fit, it is SO worth the extra work :-)!

  You can also measure the pattern first to check if the recommended size seems to end up too big (compare the measurements to clothes you like).

  I have a feeling there is simply a lot more ease added to the patterns than some of us like/look good in…

  2 Replies

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    Aug 20, 2009, 09.17 PMby Ichigogirl

    And the JJ is…. HUGE!
    Nakes me wonder if I should chang the size-information on the patterns I’ve added here… they’re probably more like a Burdastyle 34 than a 36 like I wrote after checking my measurements against the sizing chart…

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    Sep 14, 2009, 07.33 PMby oscarthegrouch108

    my jj was a bit big as well. for me i found that i can cut the front piece a size smaller and everything turned out ok.

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  Aug 20, 2009, 03.33 PMby zora

  I recommend taking the time to measure a pattern first and compare it with some similar clothes that fit you well. Or if you have patterns which you know fit you well, just lay them on the new pattern and compare. Some pattern companies have very funny ideas about how much ease a garment needs – or maybe it’s vanity sizing?
  I sew Burdastyle patterns at least 1 to 2 sizes smaller than the measurement chart’s recommendation and I measure every pattern before I decide which size I sew.
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  Aug 20, 2009, 03.39 PMby wzrdreams

  I have this problem also, but since I have a C/D cup I’ve learned to use Mickeygirls solution.
  Still, the big four patterns are notorious for having way too much ease built into the patterns, or not giving enough information about the ease on the pattern envelope. That’s partially why websites like Burdastyle and Patternreview are so useful…. so you can get pattern feedback from other users. Of course, making a toile/muslin is always a good idea to get a truly custom fit, but I like knowing what size to start with.

  On another note: I have looked at the Banana Republic online size charts to order some items, and according to the size chart I should be like a 14/16 Tall. That didn’t seem right so I went to the store to try the items on, and I was totally fitting into 10 and 12, and M/L.

  Trying to figure out ones real size going by real body measurements is enough to drive a girl crazy.
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  Aug 20, 2009, 04.39 PMby Julietta

  When I follow the measurement chart I should be between a size 38 or 40. However, I usually wear a 36 when buying in stores. I just started using the same size as my store bought size for all patterns and so far it has worked really well because the sizes remain mainly the same with all burda or burdastyle patterns.

  Try next time on a pattern the same size you would have bought in a store. If it fits you won’t have to worry about the size anymore. It just takes some time to figure out which size is best for you. Don’t give up, good luck with it!
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  Aug 23, 2009, 07.00 PMby KateXXXXXX

  Be very careful doing this… It won’t work for Vogue…

  Some patterns have huge ‘idiot factor’ allowances, and some are just badly drafted. If draping on the stand or drafting you own patterns works for you, just go on doing that.
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  Aug 24, 2009, 01.29 AMby CuteMei

  Hi, all
  For size, diff company use diff measurement table.
  It’s good way to make a toile on Lining! save your time!
  better to check Pattern: Bust, Waist, Hip, Neck to Waist, Waist to Knee.
  For Bust, Waist, Hip, I will give 4cm to 10cm ease for body movement,
  depend on how close fitting you want.

  CuteMei
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  Aug 24, 2009, 01.39 AMby Kiraph

  I also have this problem a lot with patterns. My JJ was too big also, IchiGoGirl!! I don’t know if I will ever even wear the one that I made, but if I make the shirt again, I will know for next time.
  
  When I am making something important I will make a draft first and then go from there.
  
  Don’t be discouraged kristenpickle, you will get there.
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  Aug 24, 2009, 03.11 AMby jerwin

  Shouldn’t the pattern indicate the actual garment measurements? For instance, on the bodice of the pattern I’m working with now, the waist is printed as measuring 26 inches for 6, 27 inches for 8, 28 inches for 10, and 29.5 inches for 12. Similarly, the bust is 34 inches for 6;35 inches for 8; 36 inches for 10, and 37.5 inches for 12.

  Given that the publisher suggests Size 6 is 30.5-23- 32.5, Size 8 is 31.5-24-33.5, Size 10 is 32.5-25-34.5, and Size 12 is 34-26.5-36, the pattern uses a ease of 3 inches in the waist, and 3.5 inches in the bust.

  The AMerican pattern manufacturers incorporate minimum or wearing ease of 2-3 inches plus design ease. Theoretically, if the pattern is tent like, it’s because the designer wanted it that way.

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    Sep 4, 2009, 02.02 PMby Ichigogirl

    Hm, 2-3 inces + design ease sounds quite much. I’m sure you’re right though… but it makes you wonder if they dress the models on the envelopes in clothes a size too small!
    Anyway, I ordered a dressform to make the fitting procedure easier, so in the end more companies profit from the generously added ease :-)
    (and I get a fun new toy, never thought I’d take up playing with dolls again).

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  Sep 5, 2009, 07.48 AMby 20beverly08

  Measure yourself with bra on from shoulder bone to shoulder bone, or outer bra strap to outer bra strap, front width for a top or dress. If you need to fit a blazer or coat, follow the same guidelines, and go for the larger size in the blazer, to allow for ease/ If your measurement in front is 14 inches, buy a size 14 Misses pattern. Each even size is 1/2 inch, so 15.5 inches = size 20 pattern. If you measure out to be uneven in inches, like 13.5 inches for example, go up a dress size on the pattern envelope, so 13.5 inches would be a size 14 pattern. Increase at the bust size on all appropriate pattern pieces so it measures out evenly. The results are a perfect tailored fit. This takes time and practice, and a lot of patience. It usually takes me 2-8 hours to adjust a pattern to be exactly my size, before I even worry about cutting or buying fabric. I turn on the radio, or listen to an audio book, or CD while doing this. For fitting pants, check the Burdastyle tutorials and learning website for links to tutorials on fitting pants. Be patient. Go to your local library and looking up ‘pattern fitting or dress fitting or pants fitting’. Libraries are our great ‘lost’ resource that is many times overlooked today, due to the internet. please let me know how it goes. thanks, 20beverly08
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  Sep 14, 2009, 06.11 PMby Sunshine-in-denmark

  I am also totally lost when it comes to patterns and sizes. Somehow the Burda patterns fit me best – I only have to make a very few modifications, but I just find the Burda patterns a bit borring in style. I am more into the Vogue designs. However the Vogue patterns are so terrible in sizing. I just feel that the pattern designers either make patterns for standard dressforms or like a size 34 and then just add ekstra cm here and there. There is absolutely no sense in the patterns at all. I have given up and do not know what to do !!!
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  Sep 14, 2009, 07.48 PMby oscarthegrouch108

  it takes a while to get the pattern sizing right. once you figure out the perfect size for one company, it generally stays the same for whatever pattern. also, look for the finished garment sizes and compare them to your body measurements. when in doubt, make a mock up fist and go up/down from there.

  personally, i loved drafting my own pants pattern. they fit just right (almost) every time. there are some great books and resources for drafting your own patterns, maybe that’s the solution you’re looking for?
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  Sep 17, 2009, 07.27 PMby nehmah

  Hello people, I keep reading the statement, “When I measure myself…” Don’t do that unless there is not one person of your acquaintance you can trust to hold a tape measure straight. When a person raises or lowers her/his arms, the rib cage and torso muscles change shape and size, tape measures slide off the straight line you think you are using. The same is true of the waistline. I have had more than one demo with a client to prove this. No professional tailor or seamstress would ever make a garment using a customer’s numbers. Do I hear, “But, it’s only an inch difference…” Are you absolutely certain? Who can you ask to help? Ask anyone who can read a two-digit number on a tape, whether metric or Imperial. The last whine will be, “But, she might tell people I have a 28 inch waist.” So what is more important, a correct number or the slight possibility that the one doing the measuring has such a boring life that the most interesting thing to talk about is your body measurements? BTW, I’ll take that 28" waist anytime you want to trade.;) and no, I won’t tell you what mine is. Cordially, Nehmah
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  Sep 25, 2009, 08.10 PMby 0mega

  I thought I was losing my mind – so glad it’s not just me that has trouble picking the right size to work with. One thing that adds to the confusion for me is that in the U.S. our off-the-rack garments are sized on a different scale than the one Burda uses. So when Burda says I’m a 40, I have no contrary evidence – except for the hours I’ve spent ripping apart and re-sewing my creations into a size 36.

  What do you all think is the cause of the size discrepancy? Is it “idiot factor” seam allowances as KateXXXXXX suggests, or more ease than is strictly needed, as Zora and IchiGoGirl suggest?

  More important;y, I’m wondering if anyone can confirm that Burda sizing is consistent across patterns. That is, now that I’ve figured out that I’m a 36, how confident can I be that I should just be cutting to a size 36 from now on?

  2 Replies

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    Sep 30, 2009, 08.43 AMby Ichigogirl

    I have another theory about this… MAYBE it’s due to the fact that they add the same amount of ease to a size 34 as they do to a size 44? If the ease is 10 cm’s, it makes the garment a lot more roomy in the small size than in the big size.
    Came to think of that since I’ve only seen people in the lower end of the size range complain about having to size down their creations (and I think we all, no matter size, start with measuring ourselves in about the same way, so it shold be the same all over the sizing chart).
    From now on I’m going to start on a size below my measurements according to the charts, judging from experience from many companies (and many non-finished too big projects).
    It’s weird though that the clothing manufacturers seem to use a different sizing system… (not talking about US vs Europe sizing, but the amount of ease).

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    Sep 30, 2009, 01.56 PMby wzrdreams

    @ IchicGoCirl: I don’t think so…. it seems to be a problem at the large end of the size spectrum as well. In RTW I wear a L or 10 – 12. If I follow my actual measurements I should be a 44 (BS) but 42 really its me better. In McCalls patterns I measure to a size 16, but I know better now than to ever cut a size 16 unless I learn on Pattern Review that the pattern runs small. I always cut 14, or if it’s known to have a LOT of excess ease, I cut a 12 with larger seam allowances.

    The problem I’m having right now is that I have a Vogue pattern where the skirt is known to be big and the jacket is known to be small, so I want to cut a 16 jacket and a 12 skirt, but the envelope that I purchased is 14,16, 18. So I guess I’ll have to grade down the skirt. bummer.

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  Sep 30, 2009, 05.17 AMby monicamorales

  Ready to wear clothing and pattern sizing are COMPLETELY different i’m usually a 6-8 in dresses but on a pattern i’m about a 36 with a lot adjusting while i’m sewing and trying on and so forth. It’s really a lot of work to do it but in the end it should fit better than a ready to wear!
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  Sep 30, 2009, 10.19 AMby Miss_Sylver

  I can’t offer any advice on this but I have a lot of sympathy . I am a 40", 28", 40" and it is absolutely dreadful trying to find things to fit.

  Keep going, it will be ok in the end.
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  Sep 30, 2009, 11.06 PMby betterlivingthroughsewing

  most commercial patterns have the measurements of the finished garment at bust, waist and hip, printed on the pattern pieces. they are more or less accurate. so if I know I want a garment to be tighter I will make the size that gives me less ease,like an inch in some cases.

  1 Reply

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    Oct 1, 2009, 03.03 AMby wzrdreams

    The jacket pattern I’m considering now only has the finished width at the bottom listed. Unfortunately the pieces are such that I can’t simply measure across to check…. I really wish commercial patterns (burdastyle included) had spec measurements. It would save a muslin or two.

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  Oct 1, 2009, 03.11 AMby chango

  I always check the Finished garment measurement also, I can see how much ease is added to the pattern…sometimes there is so much ease added, I have to go down too sizes
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  Oct 1, 2009, 01.43 PMby wzrdreams

  I really wish patterns had more finished measurements instread of body measurements. The Vogue patterns I’m using now mostly only have width at the bottom hem. Some Burdastyle patterns only have waist to hem lengths. I wish they’d include total center back lengths for dresses or HPS to Crotch (for Doryon). Finished sleeve length would be great also since so many people have to lengthen or shorten sleeves.

  I was checking my next Vogue pattern last night and there is actually some finished hip measurements on the skirt pattern peice. I think this is great, but it would be more helpful on the pattern envelope or on the instruction sheet were I’m more likely to see it BEFORE I buy fabric and cut the pattern.
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  Oct 14, 2009, 03.30 AMby Spiderlily

  I agree about the finished measurements. They should be the main measurements givin’ so we can decide what size we are based on how close we like our clothes to fit. I learned to measure the pattern first and compare it to my own measurements, but don’t forget to subtract the seam allowance when you measure the pattern!
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  Oct 14, 2009, 11.33 PMby 20beverly08

  try a book called ‘make your own clothes’ by Marie Clayton. ISBN# 978-312-37664-2 or SIBN # 0-312-37664-2. One version even has a free Patternmaker CD with custom fitted patterns to download after punching your own measurements. It has really helped me fit my clothes better. Edward R Hamilton books company has a website and I got this bood with its CD software included at a really good price.