Burda Style For people who sew

Hello. I have been lurking around on here for a few weeks and I have loved what I have seen upto now! Not sure I shall get to be as good as you guys but I’ll have fun trying!

I’m Claire and live in Cheshire, England. Have been sewing a little while but usually what I call ‘Bodge it’ jobs, where I will start off with good intentions then rush rush rush to finish and I never wear anything I have made! The reason being it never fits! My boobs are the area I struggle with, if I was to buy something from a shop I would buy a 22 top and a 16 bottom. I love these little dresses i can wear with jeans or leggings and boots and sometimes dress up with footless tights and heels. I thought if I was lucky enough to get just one pattern that fits me well around the bust area then I can make it in lots of differant fabrics and lengths, but no such luck. I think I am going to have to adjust patterns to fit my measurements. Would anyone here be able to say in an easy to understand language how to alter a pattern for me? I will post up my measurements if it helps and also, I have downloaded the Danielle dress pattern to work off for now as i love it. I am short so things always look like they should be hoisted up at the shoulders and my boobs moved around! How about if I just enlarged the bust area and darts but left the shoulders as they are? Anyhow, any help would be apriciated.
Love Claire. x

Oct 28, 2009, 05.59 PM by claire brown

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10 Posts

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  Oct 28, 2009, 08.08 PMby KateXXXXXX

  There is a very good tutorial here on Burdastyle for what is called a Full Bust Adjustment:

  http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/fullbust-adjustment-for-princess-seams

  This one is for Princess seams. Here’s one for a darted top:

  http://www.timmelfabrics.com/fullbustalteration.htm

  And one with a fun animated bit for Empire Line things:

  http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/EmpireFBA/index.html

  Choose your style, find a pattern, and go! I always copy the pattern these days rather than using the original. That way you always have the original to go back to if things go horribly wrong. Also, experiment with cheap fabric: as one of the methods warns, you might not get it quite right first time round!
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  Oct 28, 2009, 11.07 PMby Miss_Sylver

  Hey Claire, nice to meet you! Sorry to hear about your problem, know the feeling with the sizing of things, nothing ever fits me sighs.Afraid I can’t really help but keep trying and like Kate said check the tutorials (she gives great advice)

  Anyway, look forward to seeing you on here more often!

  Bryony

  xx
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  Oct 28, 2009, 11.37 PMby Almatinka

  Hello Claire,
  I see that we have an almost identical problem – in the proportions, if not the sizes (although I am not sure which sizes I would be in English size system). I can’t help you yet, but will be glad to learn together with you and exchange advice!
  Sincerely,
  Mariya
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  Oct 29, 2009, 10.02 AMby bubbley74

  Hi Try using a stretch material this gives you a more fitting feel , and by repositioning the darts this helps with the gaping under the arms this works for me best of luck.
  Gaynor.
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  Nov 3, 2009, 06.26 PMby claire brown

  Thanks everyone! I feel so happy to know that I am not the only one who has this problem. Hopefully I will be able to sew well enough one day to believe I can create my own patterns to overcome it. In the meantime I am going to have a go at your suggestions. Thank you. x

  1 Reply

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    Nov 4, 2009, 04.46 PMby Miss_Sylver

    There is a book on Amazon that I love called Make your own Clothes. Buy it with the CDROM and you can make up patterns to your measurements.

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  Nov 9, 2009, 08.14 PMby claire brown

  Oh my goodness, really??? But then do I have to be a fantastic computer nerd to use it?
  You see, there I go, making excuses up before I go and try it. I really must just get stuck in, or make my boyfriend do it for me on the computer! Now there’s an idea. Can you imagine? Strapping 6 footer of a rugby player making me a sewing pattern!!! I love it!!!! I’m off to login at amazon right now tee hee. Thank you. xxxxxxx

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    Nov 10, 2009, 12.39 AMby Miss_Sylver

    No honestly it is really simple! You just pick what you want to make, fill in the measurements and then Bob’s your uncle, Fanny’s your aunt! You have all the instructions in the book and tips on what to make it with etc. I love it because I have a 40" bust, 29" waist and 40" hips so it makes getting clothes really hard especially as I am tall with it smiles.

    Tell your boyfriend from me that my husband is sitting beside me relining a suit jacket that got eaten in a washing machine (we were in the USA and didn’t realise the washing machine had a centre post) and he is an ex tree feller.

    Hope this helps and that you find the book! xx

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  Nov 9, 2009, 10.53 PMby KateXXXXXX

  My Father In Law, an engineer of 6’3", used to make all his own trousers, and made the suit my mother in law wore to my wedding. My son has made a quilt, jeans, and a fleece jumper. He’s 6’ tall and and six weeks past his 15th birthday. If the BF complains, tell him from me he’s a wimp! :D

  As I understand it, with that CDR, you just fill your measurements in on the measurements, pick a style from the menue, and the pooter does all the work, printing out lots of sheets for your pattern in your size. You then just tile up and stick together, as with the lovely Burdastyle patterns.

  I have pattern drafting software that does the same and more. Mine allows me to pick different elements from a huge pile of options for necklines, collars, sleeves, hemlines, whatever, then gives me editing powers to tweak the style, change it drastically, alter things here and there, and then prints out the pattern with the seam and hem allowances I dictate. I use Wild Ginger, and if you get your head round basic pattern drafting, it’s a fantastic tool. Basically, a clothing pattern dedicated suite of CAD tools. Fun, if a bit spendy.

  1 Reply

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    Nov 10, 2009, 12.41 AMby Miss_Sylver

    Loving the look of this Kate but which version do you use?

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  Nov 10, 2009, 12.44 AMby Miss_Sylver

  Found it and I am so envious. http://www.wildginger.com/products/pmboutique.htm

  1 Reply

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    Nov 10, 2009, 09.27 AMby KateXXXXXX

    I have Boutique 3, Celebrations 3, and Tailor Made 4. Need to upgrade the Boutique and Celebrations… Maybe next year, after a couple more jobs pay off! :)

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  Nov 10, 2009, 01.12 PMby Miss_Sylver

  sobs I would love to have that. Maybe Christmas will come up trumps.

  1 Reply

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    Nov 10, 2009, 10.32 PMby KateXXXXXX

    Got my eye on the stretchy stuff and kid’s stuff, but they will come next year, after the weddings and stuff pay off.

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  Nov 10, 2009, 10.58 PMby Miss_Sylver

  Now you are just rubbing it in smiles