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Hi am now the proud owner of Mccalls M5872 pattern here it is http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/M5972.jpg

and keen to get stuck in I am making the peach version , however I just noticed in my excitement while bidding on e-bay the pattern is 1 size too small :( for the bust area I need to grade up the biggest size bodice about 1 inch plus about an inch or 2 for ease ( it’s quite fitted) based on the FINISHED GARMENT measurements on the packet i just need a few inches.

My question is as there are front darts if I add my inches + 1.5cm seem to the bodice would it be safe-ish to increase the darts ( on bodice ) by about say an inch or 2 so it matches the skirt darts? Or should I just disregard the pattern’s markings for the skirt darts and match up according to my bodice Or how would you go about matching up the top with bottom darts after the adjustments to increase the bust area on the bodice.

i don’t want to waste fabric, and just double checking my thinking before I snip my fabric

What do you think?


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  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jan 22, 2013, 04.42 PMby katexxxxxx

    1 Reply
    • Christian_louboutin_pumps_0053_large

      Jan 24, 2013, 11.03 AMby mskelly

      Thanks Kate nice resource here

  • Bored_polar_bear_large

    Jan 23, 2013, 11.47 AMby 20beverly08

    however many seams are around the bodice, divide the extra inches needed by the number of seams in bodice, and add that amount to all seams to make it evenly spaced all around the bodice. Example: 4 inches too small in bodice and there are 4 seams. divide extra 4 inches needed by 4 seams and result is 1 inch to add as extra to each seam to make a perfect all around bodice fit. As for the darts matching, make a muslin first and then fit it/rip it/mark it to fit yourself. then take apart the muslin, and remake your pattern pieces for a perfect fit. I have to do this with every garment I make due to bust measurement adjustments are needed. Hope this helps.

    1 Reply
    • Christian_louboutin_pumps_0053_large

      Jan 24, 2013, 11.04 AMby mskelly

      Yep I was thinking along these lines on the seem, what Kate has posted above also helps a little more work involved but both suggestions help. Thanks for the dart advice, I will crack on over the weekend thanks you

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jan 25, 2013, 09.35 AMby katexxxxxx

    Remember that you don’t just need it WIDER. You need to keep the proportions correct, which is why you add length to some bits. And you don’t always need to make armscye’s larger, which adding at the side seams does. Grade the pattern up to your size, and then alter it to fit your personal measurements. Then make a toile. OK, more work, but you’ll get a MUCH better garment that way.

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