I have had issues when sewing dresses and adding darts at the hip area. I find it often times too tight and when i reduce the length it seems to be bulging. what do i do? pls.

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    Jun 21, 2013, 03.21 PMby Sabrina Wharton-Brown

    You could shape the darts outwards by 1/8th inch when you sew them, and/or add a bit more to the curve at the side seams. Otherwise it might be best to add a bit more ease at the hip level to allow the fabric to hang more gracefully and comfortably.

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      Jun 22, 2013, 02.22 PMby rsharma

      t sounds that your issue may be with the different thickness and texture of the fabric. You just need to play with a scrap of the fabric and see which shape fits best for the area

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    Jun 25, 2013, 05.18 AMby jen .ss1

    Hi Mau-rel, I have had a problem kind of like this. I was making a pencil skirt recently and instead of following the pattern markings for the front darts, I fitted the skirt to my body. I started by making sure that the skirt fit my hips (not too tight). Then, before attaching the waistband / facing, I put the skirt on (side seams were already sewn and zipper inserted). I experimented with pinning the darts until I thought the shape of the skirt was good. I transferred the pinned markings to the wrong side, sewed the new darts, and finished the skirt. The darts that I ended up with are shorter than the pattern and angled slightly inward; that is what worked for me personally. I’m fairly happy with the fit.

    Just remember that darts should point towards fullness, to the bust point or to curve around the belly. The dart should be sewn with a slight curve that follows the shape of the body. It should not be a severe curve and the deeper the dart, typically, the longer it needs to be. I read somewhere that one should avoid having the dart end on the fullest part of the belly, so maybe that’s something to consider too.

    If your darts seem too short and abrupt, try adding multiple darts. You might have seen vintage skirts that have a pair of darts on each side. That enables you to make each dart narrower, and therefore, less of an abrupt angle (which might be causing the issue you described). If you still have too much fabric around your waist, you can try taking in the side seams a bit.

    If there is a significant difference between your waist/upper body and hips, you might want to look for dress patterns that have a waist seam—then you can fix each issue separately. Good luck!

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