Burda Style For people who sew

Hello knowledgeable Burda Community!

My question is, what calculations/modifications need to be made to make a pattern designed for a woven to use a knit?

The Danielle pattern for example, I would like to make in a jersey to use as a maternity dress. Is it possible? Do I just cut in my ordinary Burda size, or should I cut a size smaller?

There are a lot of dress patterns I have I would like to make in knit, so much more comfortable, no zips, etc. Does the ‘cut a size smaller’ rule apply to all?

If any one could shed some light, or direct me somewhere that could, I would be extra grateful!

Thank you

Nov 16, 2011, 04.22 PM by shkoober

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8 Posts

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  Nov 17, 2011, 02.11 AMby patti-r

  Yes but usually If it is a double or firm knit you could cut it the same size as pattern, minimal stretch and recovery other words would not stretch much.

  Please read this entire article is also a PDF free on knits: http://www.denverfabrics.com/assets/assets.sewinginfo/assets.hsc-sewing-hints/hsc-pdfs/knits1.pdf

  Many types of knits different stretch amounts. From 20 to a 100 percent.

  Maybe look for a peasant type knit pattern, front of the Danielle reminds of a peasant dress. Check free patterns some tops for knits can be lengthened to create dresses.

  1 Reply

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    Nov 17, 2011, 02.04 PMby shkoober

    So if for example, I had a jersey, which after checking the stretch percentage based on that lovely PDF you added (thank you) has a 35% stretch. How could I convert that to knowing how much ease to eliminate from the pattern, or any woven pattern to use knit?
    I like the Danielle Skirt for a maternity dress, but I suppose I could just use any knit pattern bodice to attach the skirt, right?

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  Nov 17, 2011, 03.08 PMby patti-r

  Usually, you’ll need to size down one or two sizes to get a good fit. It depends on how much ease you like and length you require.

  Trial and Error, if you have similar stretch fabric , less expensive do a mock up of pattern. What ever you decide to do it takes some planning, Sewing patterns are guides, it is not an exact science they usually need some type of alteration unless you find some that are sized S,M L that may fit you better less fitting issues, when trying to reinvent a woven to knit style takes some work.

  By finding a pattern for the 35% stretch you take away some of the errors. Check Kwik Sew Knit Patterns for tops and dresses tells how much stretch needed for each pattern: http://www.kwiksew.com/catalog/cat_thumbs.cfm?Start=1&Cat=Misses&Level=Dresses&QL=MissDress

  Hoping others have more input for you Good Luck.
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  Nov 17, 2011, 03.36 PMby shkoober

  One or 2 sizes and trial and error seems to be the answer every where. I was hoping there would be a rule that could be applied everywhere. I also wonder how would you eliminate bust darts in a woven pattern, knits don’t really need them
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  Nov 17, 2011, 07.08 PMby shkoober

  after reading and googling what felt like a million pages, this is a semi-definitive answer…has any one put this rule into practice? Does it work?

  http://everythingsewingforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18738

  Re: Patterns – Convert woven to knit or vice versa

  Postby Claire623 » June 22nd, 2010, 8:47 am Generally, knits stretch around the body so if you’re converting a pattern from wovens to knits (this is easier BTW than knits to woven) the first thing to do is figure out the % stretch of your chosen knit. As Goosegirl very aptly noted, stable knits are often used interchangeably with wovens – there is so little stretch that it isn’t significant. For stretchier fabrics, try this:

  1. Take a 4" width of the knit fabric and stretch it so that it is stretched comfortably but not taut. Measure it. In this case, let’s say it stretched to 6". So 6/4 =150% (yes, there is math involved. Sorry. Can’t be helped.)

  2. Invert that number: so 6/4 becomes 4/6 =66% or 2/3rds. That’s the magic number you need to decrease around your pattern to convert from a woven to a knit.

  3. So let’s say your full pattern front measures 12". 66% of 12" is 8". So you’re going to be aiming to remove 3-4" from the pattern front. Use your judgment and try and keep the decreases subtle and in keeping with the pattern’s lines. Because most patterns are symmetrical, you’ll be working on half a pattern, so in this case, remove 1 1/2-2" on the front half. I’d do 1/2" from the underarm (remember to do the same to the sleeve if it’s got one), then one 1/4" tuck from the shoulder and then 1/2" or so from the CF. 1/2" + 1/4" + 1/4" + 1/2" = 1 1/2". Smooth out any irregular lines at the shoulder seam, repeat the math and removal process fro the back and sleeves and you’re good to go. Pants are the same process, just watch that you don’t muck up the crotch curves :)

  Claire www.clairemeldrum.ca
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  Nov 17, 2011, 07.36 PMby patti-r

  Yes it takes a while to locate information, hoping it helps you. I am sure it will help others.

  Good Luck!!!!!
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  Nov 17, 2011, 08.59 PMby ichigogirl

  Just a quick note: remember that you really only need to remove the ease, not actually size down, so if you choose to simply size down you might end up with too short sleeves, bodice etc. Make sure to legthen where needed if you do. To remove darts, the quickest way is to cut the pattern in paper, without seam allowances, sticky tape the darts closed and flatten the pattern (by folding or simply scrunching it). Make sure not to distort any important lines (such as the center front or other pieces to cut on the fold). Obviously this method only works if you remove the darts because you want to convert the pattern for use with stretchy fabrics :-).

  3 Replies

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    Nov 18, 2011, 03.18 AMby patti-r

    Ichiigogirl,
    I agree with all of your above post effecting the sizing, length of bodice etc., but the Danielle Pattern has Vertical darts front, back bodice, skirt too and did not know how much skill she had on alterations:
    http://www.modehistorique.com/research/eliminating_darts.pdf
    Vertical darts are usually removed/cut sometimes from side seams aren’t they?

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    Nov 18, 2011, 10.59 AMby ichigogirl

    I actually don’t think it’s necessary to remove the darts in the “proper way”, as in the link (great link!) you posted (side seams), since what you’re after is only the basic outline of the bodice+skirt, the volume in the necessary parts (ie bust and bum) will be provided by the stretch of the fabric. So I think you can actually just sticky tape the darts closed and flatten the pattern (by folding/pressing it flat). Removing darts as in the tutorial keeps the volume and is a must for woven fabric without stretch (I hope I understood your question!).
    I always make simple test-garments when I make new patterns, in jersey too, in a fabric as similar in weight, drape etc. to the final fabric as possible. That way you get an idea about the stretch, if there’s enough of it or not.
    I’d consider a side seam zipper in the jersey Danielle, as you’d probably want it quite fitted, but of course, since this will be a maternity dress I’d probably keep the ease in the skirt front below the waist anyway, so a zipper is probably not necessary.
    The sleeves look like they could be used as they are, unless the fabric is very slouchy, then I’d make them smaller/less puffy (or they might hang rather than puff).

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    Nov 18, 2011, 02.10 PMby shkoober

    Thanks Ichigogirl!

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  Nov 18, 2011, 03.03 PMby patti-r

  ichigogirl, Great explanation, Applause, Applause, Applause!! I always do a sample/test when changing styles in fabrics to be used. Your right I am very familiar with Couture Fashions, Drafting and Designs, mostly woven fabrics, use the above link for velvet, lace overlays and few others where darts interfere with style. drape and fabric appearance. Usually use stable/double/ firm knits (almost the same as woven), realize that different rules apply to knits with 25% and over stretch fabrics. LOL know how to do them but you explained it much better.

  Thank You, Patti
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  Nov 18, 2011, 09.07 PMby mickeygirl

  You need to have the shoulders the same size but use some tape to keep them from stretching. You can have less width across the body as in ease as someone mentioned because of the stretch factor. Only you might like the extra room especially more in front. Some women gain weight all over – arms, legs, bum etc.

  You can probably do without zippers and such as long as you can pull the opening over your head. Also look for a pattern that is not too fitted in the waist otherwise it will not pull over your bust.

  1 Reply

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    Nov 18, 2011, 09.22 PMby shkoober

    good thinking, I wasn’t thinking about the massive bust action which is sure to happen

    Thanks