Burda Style For people who sew

Hello, I really need help fitting the collar on this shirt. I’m following the instructions and the seam allowances and all my marks. I’ve gone back over things several times and I can’t get the collar to fit properly.

It says to fit center front to center front and match shoulder dots. I have done this and from shoulder dot around the back to other shoulder dot fits perfectly but from the shoulder dots to the center fronts, there is more shirt fabric than collar and I don’t know how to sew this properly. Looking at the pattern figures, it doesn’t show any excess fabric nor does it say to ease anything in.

Please help, this is for my little boy.

many thanks

UPDATE So I backtracked on everything I did and did a recheck of my pattern parts and embarassingly found that the shirt fronts were cut wrong. I traced the pattern but when I did, I used all sides for the size 6 except for the very front of the shirt where I wavered off onto the size 2. So I have just enough fabric to cut 2 out. Most importantly, I want to thank you all for your help. I’m an emotional pregnant lady and was in tears over this so thank you for helping me work through my pattern.

May 30, 2011, 07.11 PM by Pamela Leavers

• ShareThis

7 Posts

• 

  May 31, 2011, 10.01 AMby bjr99

  Most shirt collars need to be eased in as you sew. Some patterns just don’t include that fact. Stay stich the shirt fabric before you pin on the collar. You can then ease the fabric in to the collar as you sew. Then carefully clip the seam in to, but not through, the stay stitching. This will relese the tension on the curve and allow it to lay flat.
• 

  May 31, 2011, 02.53 PMby Pamela Leavers

  So I’ve tried that and I still don’t have enough collar fabric to fit. I’ve got a total of about 3 inches more of shirt fabric than collar fabric. I used an iron on stabalizer, could that be preventing any stretch on the collar to fit? I’m confident the pattern is correct as I found 3 good reviews on it so I know its got to be something I have done. Would it be easier just to make a new collar and make it a few inches longer?
• 

  May 31, 2011, 03.41 PMby bjr99

  I took a look at the picture of the shirt. It looks as if the shirt has a collar and stand. Have you cut out all the pieces?
• 

  May 31, 2011, 04.51 PMby Pamela Leavers

  Thank you so much for checking out the picture. I have checked my pattern parts and uncut parts and there is no stand. It shows in the pattern just:

  basting the collar to neck edge, from center front to center front matching seam numbers and matching horizontal marks to the shoulder seams. The interfaced collar side should be facting the body of the shirt.

  Finish edges of self facings on front edges of shirt. Turen self facings to outside along marked fold lines and pin to neck edge, over collar. Turn shoulder edges of facings under. Stictch facings and collar to neck edge. Trim seam allowances and trim corners diagonally. Clip seam allowances of curves.

  Turn facings to inside, baste, and press. Trim seam allowances on back neck edge. finish these allowances together and press toward the shirt back. Sew shoulder edges of facing to seam allowances of shoulder seams

  This is all there is for the collar attachment. I just want to say thank you for your help. I really appreciate it
• 

  May 31, 2011, 04.51 PMby Pamela Leavers

  Thank you so much for checking out the picture. I have checked my pattern parts and uncut parts and there is no stand. It shows in the pattern just:

  basting the collar to neck edge, from center front to center front matching seam numbers and matching horizontal marks to the shoulder seams. The interfaced collar side should be facting the body of the shirt.

  Finish edges of self facings on front edges of shirt. Turen self facings to outside along marked fold lines and pin to neck edge, over collar. Turn shoulder edges of facings under. Stictch facings and collar to neck edge. Trim seam allowances and trim corners diagonally. Clip seam allowances of curves.

  Turn facings to inside, baste, and press. Trim seam allowances on back neck edge. finish these allowances together and press toward the shirt back. Sew shoulder edges of facing to seam allowances of shoulder seams

  This is all there is for the collar attachment. I just want to say thank you for your help. I really appreciate it

  1 Reply

  • 

    May 31, 2011, 05.46 PMby bekaem

    Sometimes it’s just something really simple. Would it be possible that you’re trying to fit the collar to the edges of the self facing rather that to the centre fronts for example?

• 

  May 31, 2011, 05.53 PMby bjr99

  It sounds like you are doing everything right. At this point check to be sure that you cut everything out in the same size. If you did then check the seam allowances on the collar and body of the shirt to be sure that they are correct. It’s possible that the fusible interfacing could be causeing a problem. Interfacing is not suppose to go completly to the cut edge of the fabric. Also, take your collar pattern piece and pin it to the neck edge of the shirt to see if it fits. If it does then re cut and start again.
• 

  Jun 2, 2011, 07.31 PMby Pamela Leavers

  bumping for update