If anyone can offer any advice..I’m building a cocktail dress to wear to a friends wedding with a corset bodice. It is mainly inspired by this dress I saw at a local gown shop but is only sold in sizes 0-6 >(
My quandry is that I am a 38DD+ and have difficulty fitting garments to my bust. I want a sexy wasp waist but support in the bust. And something that will flatter my endowments and make my husband proud…and perhaps a bit weak in the knees =O
So, should I do an underbust corset and then attach cups, or will this not lend enough support to the bust, as it will be strapless so I don’t want the tops of the cups to gap away from my skin.
Or would I be better served creating more of a corset/bustier hybrid and make an overbust corset w spiral steel and place cups inside it to give a guiding shape for the bones of the corset to follow?
Or it appears in the photo as if the boning goes up to the underbust but then stops to allow for a cup, and in my case, an underwire.

Thanks to any and all advice and assistance =)
Cheers!

Inspiration:
http://www.google.com/imgres?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=MUh&sa=N&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&biw=1366&bih=610&tbm=isch&tbnid=WkPaQFXgmDVM1M:&imgrefurl=http://www.queenschoice.com/inc/sdetail/sherri-hill-prom-homecoming-dress-1403/10849&docid=ZBRkc3zzVCcpsM&imgurl=http://pi.b5z.net/i/u/1627444/i/Sherri_Hill_1403_Royal.jpg&w=543&h=748&ei=lhALUJKHJsmgrAG9uM2jCg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=794&vpy=116&dur=8295&hovh=264&hovw=191&tx=117&ty=142&sig=109698960312750769276&page=1&tbnh=137&tbnw=109&start=0&ndsp=29&ved=1t:429,r:6,s:0,i:94

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  • Imag0223_large

    Jul 23, 2012, 09.08 PMby pinkdaffodils

    Any takers?

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jul 23, 2012, 09.58 PMby katexxxxxx

    First go and have a fitting for a bra. Find out what size you REALLY are. Buy a good quality, well fitted bra. This will give you the basic figure shape for your foundation layer, whatever type of dress you go for in the end. If you want it o support a larger bust you are probably better off making a garment with a fully supporting foundation or corset. A bustier will not do the job, and is the bones in that picture are the only ones supporting you, it will fail. You will need a properly constructed metal boned corset to support a larger bust, especially if you want it to provide some waist reduction as well.

    1 Reply
    • Imag0223_large

      Jul 24, 2012, 06.29 AMby pinkdaffodils

      Thank you for all your advice and suggestions! I can’t find ANY strapless bras/bustiers in stores that fit and flatter my 38DD (professionally measured) bust, and the vision for the bodice is a corset look anyways, so I figured I may as well do an actual boned corset bodice that will fit and flatter, made to my exact measurements and can reuse for other fancy shmancy dresses.
      Thank you for helping with the bustier vs corset quandry, you’ve really helped me save a lot of time and materials because I had resigned myself to just mocking up both bustier and corset and seeing which worked! So, Thank You!

      -The next quandry I’m faced with now is how to retain the natural curve of the bust with a boned corset bodice which is flat and pushes the bust upwards.
      I’ve examined my wedding dress as well as a fashion ‘corset’ I’ve worn and it appears that the front sections have been modified into a princess seam, creating that otherwise lacking curve…
      So if I continue drafting a corset, can I then modify it and draft in that princess curve into the front section? And perhaps add a cup to provide extra support of that bust curve?
      Will spiral steel conform to the bust and not crush the curves because of the pressure exerted from the corset ties?
      At foundationsrevealed they did a study on boning types and placement and number of bones, and decided the largest number (40) of spiral steels is most comfortable and supportive because the number of bones displace the amount of stress on each bone…so should I perhaps add a bone to the central princess seam bone to help support the bust and ensure the curve is retained?
      Basically, to cut through all my jabbering, will a princess seamed corset work and should I add more bones, especially at the bust, to help support the bust curve?
      Sorry for picking through your brain, but everyone I’ve asked don’t have much, if any, experience with corsets and bustiers, or even boning. Thank you again for your help and advice, I Really appreciate it!!
      Cheers!

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jul 24, 2012, 07.14 AMby katexxxxxx

    Personally, with anything D or above, I’d follow the general rule of thumb on Foundations Revealed (THE BEST place for corset advice EVVAH!) for construction, but use a pattern with bust gores. If you also have a pronounced hip spring, use one that has hip gores too.

    And if you are on LJ, have a read through the archives on the corset maker’s com. There are masses of pix and much advice, and many journey’s through just this process that will help you avoid the pitfalls and errors that await. EXPECT to make at least three toiles. Bone the toiles!

    Oh, and for good fitting bras and bustiers, try Rigby and Peller. :)

  • Imag0223_large

    Jul 24, 2012, 11.14 AMby pinkdaffodils

    Thank you oh so much for your last post, so very helpful! I had no idea about corsetmakers on lj, and thank you for recommending rigby and peller as well! Out of curiosity, what do you mean by the general rule of thumb on foundationsrevealed? (such a great site, so much info on one site is such a luxury! My 82 yr old neighbor is in awe can just google what we need for sewing and designing help, and I agree! Thanks again for being so helpful and for letting me pick your brain a bit! Happy sewing! Cheers :)

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Jul 24, 2012, 11.30 AMby katexxxxxx

      Flat or spiral steel of the right size for the job, double stitch all seams for strength, use coutil for anything other than a historic reproduction, and make plenty of toiles!

      Oh, and the only stupid question is the one you didn’t ask!

      There’s a LOT of construction, assembly and fitting advice on the LJ group. Do look through the archives as a FIRST resort. Most beginners (and even a lot of advanced corset makers) find their answers there.

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