Hello! I was hoping someone could help me?
I am making my wedding dress with a bustier top. I’ve been working from the Kwik Sew 3166 bustier pattern and have adapted it a little for a woven fabric and to get the right fit.
I’ve had a few problems with the cups – the first toile/muslin that I made there was a lot of excess fabric along the seam that goes across the widest point of the bust – enough fabric to pinch around 4cm- I call it a duck beak.! I cut another toile with a smaller size cup but it still had the same effect.
I took the cups out and removed the inner cup lining. I then put the lower part of the bodice on and laid the cups over my bust. I pinned the cups on moving the lower part of the bodice around until it all fit as closely as I could get it to. I then stitched the cups on and will adapt the pattern to remove the excess from the lower part of the bodice.
The cups are nearly right but not quite – there is still about 5-8mm excess that puckers a little along the seam across the widest part of the bust – any ideas on how can I get rid of this excess? Normally I would leave as it does look ok, it’s just for my wedding dress I want it to be perfect!
I’ve done pattern cutting before but not for lingerie/bras so don’t know the best way of adapting them. I tried stitching a slightly bigger seam allowance along the seam but it didn’t change the excess fabric.
I would really appreciate any advice. I’ve attached a couple of images – I hope you can see what I mean – it is sort of puckered along the seam. Thanks!
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