This is my very first coat so I’m a bit nervous and unsure cutting out my patterns. The instructions say, “Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: … coats according to the bust size.” So if my waist and hips are one size larger than my bust, I’m assuming I should modify my pattern for the larger waist and hip size? Or is there enough ease that I shouldn’t worry about it?

Also, I think I need to shorten the length of the coat and the sleeves, but I don’t see any lines on the pattern marked “lengthen or shorten here”.

Many thanks in advance!

Slipintosomethingalittle_large

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  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Dec 16, 2013, 10.46 AMby katexxxxxx

    You need to take your shoulders and cup size into account as well… If you have broad shoulders and a B cup or smaller bra size, cut for the hip and waist size and do a small bust adjustment. If your shoulders are small to go with your torso and bust size, cut the smaller size for the top and grade out to the larger size for thee waist and hips.

    To shorten something, you need to establish where it needs to be shortened: between shoulder and bust point, bust and waist, waist and hip and hip and knee. You may need to shorten in more than one place. Just slash all pattern pieces in the appropriate area, shorten, and true up the seams.

    Make a toile to tewst your fit.

    1 Reply
    • Slipintosomethingalittle_large

      Dec 16, 2013, 03.01 PMby liaifen

      Thank you so much! This was very helpful!

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Dec 16, 2013, 09.38 PMby katexxxxxx

    You might want to think about shortening the sleeves above and below the elbow too, especially if they are two part sleeves and curved. Make the lower slash above any seamed cuff detail.

    1 Reply
    • Slipintosomethingalittle_large

      Dec 22, 2013, 04.30 PMby liaifen

      Ahh… okay. Thanks, katexxxxxx!

  • Slipintosomethingalittle_large

    Jan 6, 2014, 02.44 AMby liaifen

    I ended up referring to this tutorial: http://oliverands.com/blog/2010/02/lengthening-and-shortening-a-pattern.html and the book, The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to altering patterns.

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