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So, I am making a Burda jacket with a notched collar. I am at the stage where I am about to sew the lapel facing to the jacket front when I stumbled on the instruction:

“pin the facing right sides together with the jacket. Pin the facing along lapel fold line on front. BUILD A LITTLE EXTRA FULLNESS into corners of lapels (facing).” A little later on the instructions say to “Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, BUILDING A LITTLE EXTRA FULLNESS into the top collar”.

At first I took little notice of this instruction. I had assumed it referred to the stage where you would turn the collar/ lapel right sides out, ensuring that corners were properly pushed out and sharp.

Having googled the term (no help from the Burda technique or terms section) I discovered no-one really seems to have a definitive explanation, except that whatever the technique is it helps the top collar and lapel to lie/ roll properly, and that part at least makes sense to me.

A couple of people suggest cutting the under collar/ under lapel slightly smaller, which makes no sense to me – doesn’t that just just mean smaller seam allowance? Another suggested that you ease the top onto the bottom, which would imply one pattern piece is bigger than the other and mine are the same size.

Someone else suggested using canvas and pad stitching which seemed a long-winded complicated technique to be so nonchalantly referred to at this stage.

I am wondering whether grading the seam allowances would be of any use towards building fullness.

A few suggested that it really depends on how tightly woven your fabric, whether you need to build fullness. Mine is a very loosely woven wool-polyester blend suiting fabric which frays very easily.

I’m guessing a lot of people here have come across this term, but I suspect no-one will have a definitive answer. Any suggestions/ advice would be fantastic nonetheless!

Thank you!


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  • Ba6f76121db026b87bb717b39b9a75be8da67d2c_large

    Aug 7, 2013, 09.28 AMby veesta


  • Sewing_machine_large

    Aug 7, 2013, 12.05 PMby bjr99

    Could you post a link to the instructions?

  • Ba6f76121db026b87bb717b39b9a75be8da67d2c_large

    Aug 7, 2013, 12.10 PMby veesta

  • 8d09fad2c74f9cd26b9fae236e5ccbc0a92796ac_large

    Aug 7, 2013, 06.52 PMby aztempest

    I don’t know if this will help, but here’s a blog with that exact description (when you get to the blog page, scroll down a bit; under the first two images) and I think she explains what Burda means by building in extra fullness. http://sewingforme.wordpress.com/2013/06/24/a-tale-of-two-stitches/

  • Sewing_machine_large

    Aug 7, 2013, 08.20 PMby bjr99

    Yes, this what is meant by building fullness into the lpels and collars. It is a classic tailoring technique. Originally hair cloth was based onto the area to be padded. Then a cover cloth was based on. Once this was done all three layers were joined together using the padding stich. It is a time cnsuming technique but makes for a better fitting jacket. Tailoring traditionaly has a lot of work done by hand. Bespoke mens suits are still done this way.

  • Ba6f76121db026b87bb717b39b9a75be8da67d2c_large

    Aug 7, 2013, 08.26 PMby veesta

    Ok, pad stitching it is. Thanks both!

    • This is a question
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