Burda Style For people who sew

Hi everyone,

I’m attempting to make my own bodice sloper using http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-bodice-block. I thought I was following the instructions perfectly, but then when I got to the armscye and realized it was way too narrow for an arm to fit through! Does anyone have any suggestions for where I might have gone wrong or how to salvage and adapt what I have done so far? If I split the front and back halves apart at the armscye, how would I then modify the halves to correct the problem?

I’d be grateful for any suggestions! :)

Jan 8, 2012, 12.53 PM by saylavie

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3 Posts

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  Jan 8, 2012, 01.09 PMby mickeygirl

  Did you go wrong somewhere around step 15? or step 28? measure shoulder to bottom of armpit and compare on a blouse that fits you.

  Take a flexible curve and measure around your own arm scythe and compare to the pattern. No plastic curve? take a length of foil and roll it until you get a snake that you can use and bend to fit your body shape.

  Even if you have a fleshy bicep then your back and bust would be larger and the armhole would have to be larger. You could not wear anything that had a really tight armhole as it would be cutting and uncomfortable.
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  Jan 8, 2012, 03.30 PMby patti-r

  Mickey gave some great advice.

  Here are some visuals on where to measure:

  http://trantanphat.com/tailoring/drafting/d_fr_bod_sloper.html

  http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htm

  Also review this information:

  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4483/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice/page/all

  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4498/the-merits-of-a-basic-fitting-pattern/page/all

  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4424/quick-reference-for-cut-and-spread-pattern-grading

  See if the above links help let us know how it goes.
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  Jan 10, 2012, 10.41 PMby saylavie

  Thanks for the quick responses, you guys! I will get back to you about how it went after I get a chance to work on it again this weekend. :)