Burda Style For people who sew
arm princess line for a mens shirt.
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hi there,
im having a bit of a problem constructing the princess line for a slim fit shirt for a male friend. i have a refrence shirt but cant seem to get how much material i should cut of in the dart ( or how much to overlap)
i tried to trace the pattern from burda style for a men’s shirt and then to manipulate it and place the princess line but now im just lost.
i dont want to cut off too much and then the shirt is too slim and not too little which envolves me opening the seams again
please help
noella
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Aug 10, 2011, 03.26 PMby Peter Lappin
Noella, it sounds like you are putting the princess seam in yourself and that it’s not part of the original pattern. If this is the case, I recommend taking it in a minumum (1/2" perhaps). You don’t want too much shaping on the front torso as a man doesn’t have a prominent bosom (well, most men).
If the shirt is not fitted enough when completed, you can add two narrow fish-eye darts down either side of the central back to make it slimmer. I would recommend that the princess seam in front be primarily for show.
Hope that helps!
Here are some pics of a princess seamed mens shirt I made a while back:
https://picasaweb.google.com/101177577152766699680/Simplicity8255
Aug 10, 2011, 03.28 PMby Peter Lappin
When I say “for show” I mean for decoration purposes only.
Aug 11, 2011, 03.06 PMby noella perry
lol thanks a ton..ive started with the drafting and think the easiest way to go is the zaphar method with the dart and then extend it..the muse shirt has a princess cut at the back too, i guess my friend really likes the slim fit…i hope i can run to you about questions with mens clothing im a complete dunce in that area…thanks alot’