I’m making the wrap top from March 2012 (current) Burda mag, 121B. The front edges have self facings but for the back edge it says :
“fold facing strip lengthwise, right side facing out. Pin folded facing to back neck edge so that the fold edge of strip lies on garment piece 1cm past seam line. Stitch along marked neck edge. Turn the facing strip to the inside and press edge. Top stitch 7mm from neck edge” Then you stitch the shoulder seams.

Does anyone know of a link with images (or can explain) how I lay the facing strip? I’ve tried pinning it to the right side of the fabric with the folded edge pointing down and the raw edge 1/2cm away from the raw edge of the neckline so that when I stitch it in place with my 1.5cm seam allowance, 1cm of the facing strip extends below that seam line but when I try to turn it to the inside, the folded edge sticks up a bit like a mandarin collar. I can fold it right the way over but then to do the top stitching it’s going to look too thick/bulky there as it would be sewing through the 2 layers of the folded edge, 2 layers of raw edge and the raw edge of the neckline. Plus the raw edges extend beyond the folded edge and are visible which can’t be right.

Should the facing strip be pinned to the right side of the garment piece but with the folded edge pointing upwards? For some reason i just can’t work out where I’m going wrong and I don’t want to unpick it again as I’d already messed up by overlocking the raw edges of the neckline and facing strips together and trying to work it that way. I’ll end up ruining the fabric if I sew and unpick too often.

Not hit problems like this before and it seems weird as I’m sure with facings I’ve always sewn the shoulder seams together before attaching them. :-(

20596winter_20fairy_large

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  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Mar 1, 2012, 12.23 AMby patti-r

    So sorry your having problems, wish I could have found a picture of your top, could not. I Do not get the magazine anymore. Found this not at all your top (visual) but has the back of a top using a strip of facing just read first few paragraphs says that the facing sewn on before the shoulders are sewn together and to stop at a certain point: http://www.fehrtrade.com/tag/top/ Does it mention anything about understitching the strip? Usually use my regular sewing machine for sewing facings to garment, use the overlock to finish edges on some facings .

    Hope the above is clearer than Mud. Hoping Kate or others that may get the magazine can help you. Big Hugs, Patti

    1 Reply
    • 20596winter_20fairy_large

      Mar 1, 2012, 10.18 AMby sewingfan1

      Thanks patti! I get so frustrated when it isn’t going right and I actually find my brain trying to work it out as I’m trying to go to sleep and I have to fight the urge to get up then and there to retry it!
      Sad I know :-)

      I’ve got a feeling the link may well work for it. It has certainly cleared up how to deal with placing the facing while doing the shoulder edges which I had already forseen was going to be a problem for me.

      This is the link to the top I’m making: http://www.burdastyle.de/aktuelles/news/burda-style-03-2012-alle-technischen-zeichnungen-aus-heft-3_aid_4054.html If it doesn’t look like a wrapover top, it might have taken you to image 1 of 44 (or however many) and it’s actually image 3 I’m making.

      It says nothing about understitching nor about trimming away any excesss seam allowance which surprised me. I may well understitch it anyway as it’s a narrow facing and I find they won’t lie flat .

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Mar 1, 2012, 01.55 PMby patti-r

    Found the picture, notice the back of the neck strip, I had to zoom in a great deal looks like it is under-stitched see the 2 rows of stitching. That reminds me a little of doing a DVF wrap in a odd way, the skirt has the self facing in it, with facing on the bodice (but it was not a folded bias strip), it called for under-stitching, you have to press or steam it a few times before the under-stitching using a sewing ham or clapper may help the neck curve lay down.

    Also where the self facing meets the facing you may have to hand tack the self facing a bit.

    Although I love the Burdastyle magazine styles lately I just go to the store and buy the Burda patterns the directions/instructions are more detailed. We all have some stressful moments when doing new projects hang in there, know you can do it.

    Let me know how it goes and if this make sense, you always so thoughtful about helping others.

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Mar 1, 2012, 06.49 PMby sewingfan1

    Thanks patti, it does make sense, I shall have a go tonight or at the weekend and (presuming I’m finally successful) will post pictures when it’s done. The crazy thing is, it’s supposed to be one of the easier projects and I was sure I’d get it finished in one day :-) I think once that bit is sorted the rest will be a breeze. I’m going to use stretch lace for the sleeves and maybe add some embellishments to the lace. You’re so helpful thanks.

    I subscribed to the magazine a few months back as I seemed to be buying it more and more often, they have such lovely designs in there but I’m running out of space to store them now. It only costs £5 (a lot cheaper than the charge for it in the States I think) so it’s really worth my buying it rather than spending on individual patterns. Might have to think about getting rid of some of my older copies though – have got some going back to the 80s!!

    1 Reply
    • Charlie-deeshadows1_large

      Mar 5, 2012, 04.51 AMby smallone

      Sewingfan….I’m glad to see I’m not the only one stuck on these back neck facing instructions …. If you do work it out before I do I’d love to know what they’re trying to explain here?….I thought this top would be quick dose of instant gratification…. instant frustration more like :) ….thanks!!!

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Mar 5, 2012, 08.23 AMby sewingfan1

    Hi smallone! In the end I used thin fusible interfacing and ironed it in place, that seems to have worked fine.

    Re the back facing I used this tutorial http://suchtreasures.com/2008/06/14/applying-bias-tape-at-neckline-and-armhole-curves-as-binding/ . (You can skip the first stages where they iron the bias tape flat and then refold it in half as we start with a folded in half tape in any case with this pattern). I only gave about half cm seam allowance on the bias strip and top neck edge when sewing them together and did understitch it too which it doesn’t mention in the Burda instructions.

    For working out how to do the shoulder seams and the front self facing bit I used the link patti-r gave me http://www.fehrtrade.com/tag/top/

    Finally finished it last night so will post pictures at some point, the finished result is good but I really didn’t enjoy making this at all. I thought it was going to be too small for a while as it looks so tiny but it fits fine. The self facing on the fronts doesn’t stay in place properly though which is a problem i often seem to hit.

    Would probably make it again as it does look lovely on and maybe would be easier second time around, but it wasn’t the lovely simple project I’d been looking forward to making at all!!!

    1 Reply
    • Charlie-deeshadows1_large

      Mar 6, 2012, 04.55 AMby smallone

      Hey thanks will take a look at this in more detail and get back to it tomorrow…..and I think so far I agree on the enjoyability of this project!!!

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