Burda Style For people who sew

I have a lady who is learning to sew who has Scoliosis. I have never altered patterns for this figure type although I could make an educated guess but would appreciate some guidance from an expert. Many thanks.

Feb 9, 2013, 04.14 AM by cottonrose

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  Feb 12, 2013, 04.57 PMby Sabrina Wharton-Brown

  Sandra Betzina’s Fast Fit has this very problem in it. Basically you have to make a whole pattern and alter the side that needs fixing.

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    Feb 12, 2013, 07.51 PMby katexxxxxx

    Mine’s in the lock-up at the moment, but yes, I’d thoroughly endorse this one. Readily available from Amazon.

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  Mar 30, 2013, 02.26 AMby SusanSusan

  Scoliosis: I made a fitting muslin using the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong (1987). Right and left will have to be cut separately – no more cutting two pieces at one time. It will be very difficult to sew with fabrics that need to be matched. For me one shoulder was 3/4 inches lower than the other. On the final muslin measurements were 3/4 different from one side to the other. Waist to shoulder tip, waist to neck point, girth from centers to the underarm, side seam length, waist, hips. Darts were 3/4 deeper and longer on my high side than the low. I needed a neck dart. I fitted without a shoulder pad, making room for one at the end. I also needed several standard alterations. I suggest getting one side right and then make the same alterations to the other side using the shoulder height difference as a guide. For me, adding the sleeves was a 2nd phase challenge because the arms hang with a twist. Generally speaking diagonal tightness/looseness indicate there is a length/girth problem to be sorted out.