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I’m getting ready to make my first coat and I’m nervous! I have oodles of a lovely purple lightweight wool blend fabric and have gotten a great vintage pattern for a princess seamed fall/spring coat. However, I’m not sure about what to use to line the coat.

My worry: If I just use a regular coat lining, the fabric weight won’t be substantial enough for the tailoring of the pattern. Maybe a thicker, and slightly warmer lining fabric would work? It is a fall coat, but I don’t want to have to layer too many sweaters underneath to stay warm and the pattern is fitted. I thought that maybe a thin quilted fabric would be good.

I really don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to lining a coat, and I’d like it to turn out really well, but not get too expensive.

Can anyone give me any suggestions?

Thank you!!!


8 Posts Sign in to add a post

  • 20596winter_20fairy_large

    Jan 12, 2012, 06.18 PMby sewingfan1

    I used some sari silk to line the only coat I’ve made. I don’t suppose the pattern gives you any suggestions? I’d have thought if you use a thick lining or padded one and the coat is fitted it could feel quite restricted and the quilting might change the shape/hang of it. The only thing I’ve ever noticed with linings on coats that I’ve bought is that it tends to be a shiny/slippery kind of fabric that’s used, maybe to make them easier to slide on and off over your clothes? But I’m sure there are some “rules” that you need to follow and hopefully someone will post them on here so I can learn too :-)

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jan 12, 2012, 06.56 PMby katexxxxxx

    Coats take a bashing, so I’s suggest lining it with a good quality coat lining satin.

    For added warmth look for one that has a brushed reverse, or think about using an interlining in a light weight thermal fabric like Thinsulate, which is designed just for this purpose.

  • Photo_272_large

    Jan 14, 2012, 07.31 PMby mwelland

    Thanks, guys! These are both really helpful! The pattern is an old one that I got on Etsy, so it doesn’t give much advice. I’ll have a look at Fabricland for some of the satin that you’ve suggested.

  • Missing

    Feb 2, 2012, 12.47 PMby zippydoodah

    Hello. You’ve probably decided by now, but I thought I’d add my tuppen’orth! I have a shop-bought coat that’s part lined in cotton (the body) and the sleeves are lined in satin lining so that the coat slips on and off easily. Just thought that might be an idea. Best of luck with it. I’ve never made a coat and would love to, but I don’t have a lot of spare cash – I’d be devastated if I bought expensive wool and messed it up! I’ll try a muslin first I think…

  • Bulles-bleues_large

    Oct 29, 2012, 11.28 AMby G-A-

    Hello, I see silk is often recommended for lining coat. I have very nice silk dupioni in a print I wouldn’t use for a dress, but would look great for lining. Do you think it is too stiff for a lining or would it work?

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Oct 29, 2012, 12.02 PMby katexxxxxx

      NOT dupion… Especially if it is the very slubby kind.

      Dupion is not smooth enough to allow the garment to slip on and off easily, and wears far more readily than smooth fabrics. You need a twill coat lining satin for best results.

      I have used silk TAFFETA to line an occasional use coat, but not duoion.

  • Bulles-bleues_large

    Oct 29, 2012, 03.38 PMby G-A-

    I am really so sorry, I marked a comment as inappropriate instead of reply. Thanks for the help katexxxxx. I will find another use for my dupion, and will look for satin (charmeuse maybe?)

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Oct 29, 2012, 05.32 PMby katexxxxxx

      Chameuse is OK for a very light thing. Anything like a jacket or coat and you need a twilled coat lining, really.

  • M_a2c0278d16274567bb15b807a8dbbee0_large

    Mar 30, 2013, 07.43 AMby laneyswissorhands

    Hey girlie, judging by the amount of time that has ellapsed since you first posted this question I’m gonna guess the coat has been finished and worn many times by now. But still, here’s a link to an extremely helpful 12-page PDF on the subject of lining, from types of fabrics used down to how to actually do the lining itself. It’s one of my favorite docs on the subject… and it’s free! :)


    -Best regards, Laney.

  • 3_jalie_tee_044_large

    Oct 20, 2013, 10.49 PMby SunnySewing

    thanks for that awesome resource. It is really detailed :)

    • This is a question
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