I want to try and make a top kind of like this:

from sorbetto base.

I’m trying to play around with pattern drafting, so while I know there are a few patterns out there similar, I want to try it for myself.

My question is, do I just slash and spread? and if so is there a way to slash that doesn’t involve the pleat-slash going all the way to the bottom of the shirt? Volumous tops don’t suit me, but I do love the pleated necks that are everywhere!

I’m going to attempt it with some cheapo fabric this weekend, but I’d rather start from an educated base!
Any good hints or resources?

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  • 20017_large

    Jun 21, 2012, 11.48 AMby lie

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    Jun 22, 2012, 01.23 AMby anikissed

    Awesome, thanks! Everything I found was either really unclear, or was about adding a straight pleat like on the original sorbetto. I took one look at the picture on that site and it made total sense!

    I gave it a go last night, but cut a straight line across the bust to slash to, and ended up with the gaping I was expecting but couldn’t think how to avoid.

    Now I can’t wait to get home!

    I’ll post here and on my blog when I figure something!

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    Jun 22, 2012, 01.39 PMby Linda74Sews

    I just did this to a dress for an evening wedding. It takes a bit of work but is easily doable. I am assuming you are starting with a simple tank style pattern. – yes? If so, that’s what you will be modifying. Start with a rectangle piece of muslin – more than 6 inches longer than the front pattern piece and at least 6 inches wider than the front pattern piece. Now create the tucks in the muslin in the way you want them to look being very careful to fold them evenly and space them evenly – image looks like it has a 1-1 1/4" box pleat in center front and two angled 1-1 1/4" knife pleats radiating to the right and left. Press the pleats in place firmly on the muslin. Now using the pattern tissue piece for the front, place it on top of the muslin, lining up the center front and draw the following: the center front line, the neckline curve up and around to the shoulder line, down/around the armhole to connect to the side seam at the underarm. Your muslin piece now becomes the front pattern piece. Open it up to see the crease lines of the tucks and draw them only to muslin. Draw the balance of the body pattern to the muslin. If the pattern calls for bust darts — eliminate them as the tucks will provide enough fullness. This is probably not what your instructors would have you do, but it works and retains the integrity of the shoulder and armhole.

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    Jul 4, 2012, 12.25 AMby anikissed

    OK, my first attempt was rubbish as the fabric didn’t have the strength the show the pleats and I made them too small. This weekend I’m going to try again with a new draft and some more solid fabric which will probably be interfaced as well.

    I might give the dart elimination a try too.

    Thanks for the help :D

    Ellen

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    Jul 8, 2012, 01.36 PMby laurelledesigns

    I would slash and spread. Do you have a pattern making book? I have the book Patternmaking by Joesph-Armstrong. It’s super popular in the U.S. for sewers. It will explain in detail how to slash/pivot every and anything you’d ever want to create. It’s the only drafting book I’ve ever used and needed.

  • Missing

    Jul 8, 2012, 04.36 PMby tzyg0nka

    The book I use is Rene Bergh’s “Make Your Own Patterns” available at the public library or very inexpensively in paper-back. She gives instructions for a similar blouse without the extra fullness at the bottom and also anything else you might want to draft. Good luck!

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