Burda Style For people who sew

Hi

I have been using an overlocker for years to tidy up seams with 3 threads. I’ve been stitching some stretch using a stretch stitch on my sewing machine and then overlocking the edges. BUT, I was wondering if I can just stitch with the overlocker and skip using the sewing machine for stretch? Do I then use 3 threads or 4 threads? What is the difference between using 3 and 4 threads? Is 4 threads less stretchy?

Also, does anyone sew all their garments with just the overlocker, not just stretch fabrics?

Thanks!
Sandra

Oct 5, 2009, 09.03 PM by sandrasews

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10 Posts

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  Oct 6, 2009, 08.59 AMby katexxxxxx

  For goodness sake yes, do the seams wholly on the overlocker! :) Use a 4 thread seam for strength and when using woven fabrics of medium to heavy weights, and thicker stable knits (ones that don’t stretch too much, and things like polar fleece). Use a 3 thread seam on lighter fabrics, sheer fabrics, and where you need a LOT of stretch.

  I use a 4 thread seam on swimwear and dance wear. Although not quite as stretchy as a three thread seam, it is stronger, and you need strength in these garments.

  For pure neatening, I tend to use a 2 thread stitch. It makes an almost bulk-free and flexible drapy finish on unlined and loose lined garments. You may not have this option: check in the machine’s manual. Which overlocker do you have?

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    Oct 7, 2009, 07.41 AMby kaitui-kiwi

    I was eagerly waiting for some wonderful and insightful advice to this question too, thanks for a great answer :) I use 3-thread all the time and pretty much sew as you suggest above so I’m glad to hear I’m using my overlocker correctly.

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    Oct 16, 2009, 05.25 PMby katensew

    Hello there,
    I made ice skating wear and always used 4 threads — this eliminates the need to use s stretch stitch and gives a very strong seam. I use 3 threads as a means of finishing off raw edges on garments where I want to keep the wider seam allowance – like woolen skirts or other skirts / trousers where I might have to let them out in the future !

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  Oct 6, 2009, 08.49 PMby sandrasews

  Wow! Thanks for this info! My manual gives none of this information. I have a Janome MyLock 434DR. I can’t seem to find anything on 2 thread stitch, which threads would this be? I assume one of the loopers and one of the needles?

  I’m a bit reluctant to start using just the overlocker to stitch up seams as I have a fancy new computerised sewing machine that I want to use at every opportunity! But going over each seam twice to both stitch and finish is a bit much…

  So I guess I’ll just start with some jersey dresses, shirts and leggings using 3 threads and see how I go. Wish me luck!

  3 Replies

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    Oct 7, 2009, 07.38 AMby kaitui-kiwi

    From what I learnt when I went Overlocker shopping is that not all overlockers can convert to a 2-thread. I have a Bernina 2-3-4 thread and I have to screw in a little attachment inside the front panel to convert to 2-thread :)

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    Oct 8, 2009, 03.55 PMby katexxxxxx

    If there is nothing in the manual, chances are you can’t do a 2 thread stitch.

    Which machine you use to do what is mostly a matter of what type of garment and what type of fabric you use. I use the overlocker just for neatening (where appropriate) on tailored garments and fabrics that ravel easily. I use it for seams on knits and where the advantage of neatening and seaming all in one pass is good. Fine fabrics, stretch fabrics, things like shirts…

    You need to get yourself a good book on using a serger. Take a look on Amazon – there are loads about.

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    Oct 8, 2009, 10.22 PMby sandrasews

    Yes, I think a serger book is a good idea. I really do want to learn more about working with stretch.

    Thank you all so much for the advice.

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  Oct 8, 2009, 10.32 PMby norah

  I too have just bought a new Janome ovelocker last month so this advice has been brilliant . One question Kate you mention books. I have looked on Amazon but they all seem to be a bit dated though I presume that really shouldn’t matter but is there any book you would particularily recommend – thanks once again
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  Oct 9, 2009, 12.07 PMby katexxxxxx

  Yes, several:

  Sewing With Sergers: Gail Brown and Pati Palmer. ISBN 0-935278-25-7 (Portland, Palmer/Pletsch 1991) $8.95/£7.95

  The best basic serger book I can find for the price! Takes the mystery and terror out of basic serging, and starts you on the way to fancier stuff! Shows you how to get the best out of your new toy.

  The Serger Idea Book:Anne Hesse Price. ISBN 0-935278-18-4 (Portland, Palmer/Pletsch 1989) $19.95/£14.95

  This one takes you beyond the basics and shows both how to do some nifty techniques and where to use them. It neatly removes all need to be scared of playing with the tension dials! It also shows what can be done by experimenting with different threads, and gives some ideas about what to try. It even has some ideas for Heirloom serging!!

  Complete Serger Handbook (A Sterling/Sewing Information Resources book) by Chris James (Paperback – 2 Jul 1998) £9.99

  This one is the serger bible! Not to be missed.

  Serger Secrets: High-Fashion Techniques for Creating Great-Looking Clothes by Mary Griffin, Pam Hastings, and Agnes Mercik (Paperback – Nov 2001) £12.70

  Full of interesting techniques for sergers and cover stitch machines.

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    Jun 15, 2010, 03.39 PMby pinprincess

    Thanks for the book recommendations! I have a Singer serger book of some sort (can’t remember the name and I’m not where I can go look) that has been helpful but I still feel like there are some knowledge gaps. I’ll be looking into some of these :)

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  Oct 10, 2009, 06.35 PMby norah

  Thank you very much for your suggestions . I am going to get the Complete serger hand book. . I have also looked on You Tube and they have some quite good videos explaining the basics. But I want to move on from there so I will buy the book .
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  Oct 11, 2009, 09.02 AMby sazzle

  I have had a few sergers (overlockers in my end of the world) and I have to say whilst my book – serge with confidence is good I’m not sure a book is really needed except for glossy pictures of what the stitches should look like. If you have a Janome I would highly recommend buying the Janome “overlockers creative sewing guide” Although a word of warning don’t go on the strength of 4 threads alone for a high stress area such as the crotch seam on a pair of pants, you should do a reinforcing stitch with your sewing machine or add tape for extra strength (I learnt the hard way with one almighty ripping sound in front of a grade one class!!)

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    Oct 13, 2009, 03.31 AMby oscarthegrouch108

    oh No! how horrible!

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  Oct 11, 2009, 02.35 PMby katexxxxxx

  I use an additional straight seam there on things like jeans. Works a treat, I have to say. And I also top stitch from the outside… 3 seams for the price of one! :) Where ever you jeans give way, it won’t be up the bum! ;)

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    Oct 13, 2009, 03.33 AMby oscarthegrouch108

    hmmm, maybe that’s what i need to do with the hubby’s pants……he’s heavy set and is the typical male when he sits (sprawled legs), putting immense stress on his crotch seams. i swear i’ve fixed every pair of pants twice!

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  Oct 13, 2009, 09.35 AMby katexxxxxx

  The GMNT does that… I stitch the seam with small stitches and a narrow zigzag to give it some stretch, tidy that up with a 4 thread wide overlock, and then topstitch from the outside with the very narrow zigzag, or use topstitching thread. Actually, what I did was teach HIM to sew jean like that! :D
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  Oct 16, 2009, 03.49 PMby ladykatza

  Oooo, this is good to know. I’m about to sew a pair of yoga pants.
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  Apr 18, 2011, 09.54 PMby cooi

  I think it would be useful for you to check this out:

  http://beginnersewing.sewfastseweasy.com/sewing-machine-embroider/2009/10/the-difference-between-an-overlock-machine-and-a-serger/

  :)