The burda sleeve seems to be a completely different shape to one drafted according to the various drafting handbooks I have looked at. The burda sleeve front is rounded high and full and the back is a long shallow slope – almost the exact reverse of a standard drafted sleeve . Why?

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    Jul 1, 2011, 10.21 AMby Sabrina Wharton-Brown

    The Burda sleeve patterns are made to have a better fit than some pattern making books would have us make. Our armscyes are not symmetrical. If they were we would either not be able to move our arms around, or we would be able to turn them 360 degrees. Dress forms do not usually reflect this, unless you are lucky enough to have a Gunka one.

    There is a deep scoop in the front of a good sleeve pattern because that is the shape of our armscyes, and a very shallow curve to the back because that is how we are shaped.

    If you go to Fashion Incubator there is an article that illustrate this more. Here is the link:

    http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/

    It’s a really interesting website. (Have a look for zip instructions, they’re really good, especially for putting in facings properly).

    Sabrina Wharton-Brown http://thesewingcorner.blogspot.com

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      Jul 3, 2011, 08.10 PMby finestitch

      Hi Sabrina,
      Thanks for the fashion incubator details – that is one amazing post which I’m trying to get my head round; there is so much information in it ! I haven’t managed to work out whether her front and back coincides with burda front and back but there’s enough sleeve cap info to keep me thinking for a long time.

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    Oct 19, 2011, 03.52 PMby kathleenfasanella

    The shape of Burda sleeve caps is just one detail that has persuaded me of their products excellent engineering.

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