Burda Style For people who sew

Anyone else had problems with sizing? Everytime i’ve cut a downloaded pattern i’ve had to modify it as the garment has turned out too large.

Feb 23, 2010, 06.23 PM by freask

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  Feb 24, 2010, 01.06 PMby emlj

  Yeah me too…every time its enormous. Have you checked the test square measures 10×10cm after you’ve printed. Having said that i still find them too large and have to alter..practice i suppose even if a bit annoying!
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  Feb 25, 2010, 02.32 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  Some patterns have a lot more ease than you might expect. I prefer a closer fit to what most patterns offer and also you might need to cut a pattern (for example) at one size for your bust but a different size at the waist. For example I just made the JJ and according to my measurements I cut a size 42 overall but I cut the waist in at size 40 but even then it feels a little large on me so after it is semi together I take the sides in overall a bit more by pinning and trying on, so the ease in the JJ pattern is larger than my preference. In general I find BurdaStyle & Burda patterns this way so I am getting used to compensating, it seems fairly consistent so far, and for the other pattern companies I keep a note on how I felt about the sizing so that I can adjust the next pattern I make from them too. Also I think that maybe my personal measurements need updating ;) I’m going to get one of the girls at my next BSC meet to help measure me so I get it more spot on.

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    Feb 25, 2010, 03.31 AMby oscarthegrouch108

    a lot have mentioned the JJ running big. when i cut mine i do a 38/36 even though my measurements say i should be in the range of a 40

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  Feb 25, 2010, 03.36 AMby oscarthegrouch108

  on the pattern pieces, see if you can find how big the finished bust/waist/hip will be. subtract your actual bust/waist/hip from the finished measurement and that will tell you how much ease there is. i agree with kiwi, there usually is a bit more ease than what you are expecting.

  this is where making a muslin comes in too. this way you can check the fit and make alterations before you cut into your good fabric. i usually use a cheaper printed calico, so that if i like the way it turns out i have something that i can wear too. i don’t do it as often as i should, but for special things or patterns that i’m really if-y about, i always do.

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    Feb 25, 2010, 06.17 AMby kaitui-kiwi

    Great advice about the muslin, I don’t make them as often either but definitely if it is something special or my “real” fabric is very expensive & I am worried about mucking it up :)

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    Feb 26, 2010, 02.12 AMby oscarthegrouch108

    i figure it’s sorta like a 2 for 1 deal, not only do i have a wearable muslin, but i know how to alter the pattern and how it goes together.

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  Feb 25, 2010, 12.36 PMby ichigogirl

  I don’t understand why they put so much ease in! It often doesn’t look like it in the pictures of the clothes either. I am very curious to know if the amount of ease is in proportion to the measurement, or if it’s the same no of cm’s or inches added to f.ex the bust-measurement regardless of size. An inch of ease might be perfect for a midget like me, but for a bigger person it wouldn’t be even near enough, if you want to achieve the same look and fit for both of us. I kind of have this theory that there’s a chart that dictates the amount of ease necessary and that it’s as simple as “Blouse: Bust 6cm’s, Waist 4cm’s, Coat: Bust 8cm’s, Waist 6cm’s” etcetera… I think I’ve seen one once… and obviously that wouldn’t work really well in reality. I mean, it must be better if the recommended amount to add for ease is a %:age of the measurements? Well…. I’m thinking aloud! But this is a real issue, and it’s just not comprehensible to me why it is the way it is (that the sizing is so off that people stop using commercial patterns because of it, when it’s based on actual body-measurements…).

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    Feb 26, 2010, 02.10 AMby oscarthegrouch108

    i rely on the pictures to tell me how something is going to fit, and without knowing how much ease is factored in i dont know what size to cut! its disappointing to sew something that i drown in that i thought would be nicely fitted.

    i think that they do use that sort of general chart for ease, though there is one for regular sizes and another for plus sizes.

    what i’d really love is for Burda style to put the amount of ease somewhere easy to find. on most of their patterns i cant even find a finished bust measurement.

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  Feb 25, 2010, 12.45 PMby katexxxxxx

  Ease is both according to style and proportinonal to size. An XL person needs more ease in the same style than an XS person. :)

  Here is the standard ease chart used by Vogue: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/vintage+body-sizes/size%20c1.gif

  Many commercial patterns allow a bit of extra ease to take into account the sad fact that many folk don’t measure accurately and go in for vanity measurements. Garments for the photos are both fitted to the person and/or clipped in place at the back where you can’t see it. Bulldog clips are the fashion photo stylists best friend!

  With expensive or unique fabric it is always a good idea to make a toile and sort out these fitting issues before making the real garment.
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  Feb 26, 2010, 01.29 AMby josephina

  I generally find that 2 sizes smaller than indicated by the measurement charts (for most pattern companies) fits me best. Fortunately, I now have blocks I made to fit me precisely and if I’m using a commercial pattern, I can compare fit and dart placement with these. If you have a pattern you know fits well you might be able to use it in the same way.
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  Jan 5, 2012, 10.55 AMby pj-15

  Hello

  I seem to be having the opposite problem!! I’m new to Burda patterns and bought a shirt pattern that came with the seem allowances added. I’m a UK 10 so after measuring up I decided to cut a US 8 which conversion charts tell me is a UK 12, I figured that would make the shirt roomy. I found it came out too small ! I was surprised as everyone says how big Burda comes out. I’m a big fan of New Look patterns always cut a 10 and they fit fine.

  Anyone any idea what I’m doing wrong! I so love the crossover shirt pattern and will continue to practice until I get the pattern to fit, but would love the benefit of everyone’s experience.