Burda Style For people who sew

Hello,
Maybe someone knows what I’m doing wrong…I made a tailored skirt out of tropical weight wool. It is a plain weave and I think, worsted. I’m having difficulty pressing it, or rather, it it won’t stay pressed.
The skirt looked okay when I first finished it, but after wearing it once the seamlines seemed to unpress themselves and no longer look flat. I haven’t had this happen before. I’ve been a little concerned about burning the fabric by pressing it too hot, if that’s possible. Is there a way to keep it permanently pressed? Thanks for your suggestions!

Aug 24, 2012, 04.07 PM by jenss-1

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  Aug 24, 2012, 11.55 PMby katexxxxxx

  You need to press it like a tailor rather than a dressmaker! Oh, and do a burn test of scraps to make sure it is wool and not a wool/poly mix.

  HOT iron.

  If you don’t have a steam generator iron, a spray bottle of water.

  Cotton pressing cloth.

  Clapper (like this: http://sewingworkshop.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.v1.tpl&product_id=120&category_id=49&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54)

  Strips of brown parcel paper about 2" wide… Tear them along a ruler rather than cutting so they have a softer edge. A hard edge can leave a line.

  Seam/sleeve roll (and a roll, not a board!)

  Place the seam over the roll, seam allowances up, cover with the cloth and press with lots of steam (or spray… ), down the center of the seam. DO NOT rub the iron up and down the seam. LIFT it to move it. DO NOT press the outer edges of the seam allowances or you’ll get dents in the skirt down the seams!. Let the seam cool before moving it. Lay it flat and put the strips of paper under the seam allowances. Cover with the cloth and blast with steam, or spray and press. Take the iron away and thwack the seam with the clapper, hard, several times. Then leave the clapper on the seam until it’s cool.

  Yes, it takes time.

  Yes, it’s boring.

  Play music but don’t watch videos! You’ll get distracted and scorch the skirt!

  DO NOT rub the iron up and down the seam. LIFT it to move it.

  2 Replies

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    Aug 25, 2012, 12.58 AMby jenss-1

    Thank you so much, kate— I thought that you would probably be the one with the answer! I’ll be investing in a clapper soon.

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    Aug 25, 2012, 09.47 AMby katexxxxxx

    I need to get Himself to make one!

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  Aug 28, 2012, 10.10 AMby Lindsay Whitehead

  Yes, great job Kate.

  Steam Steam Steam is your friend. Especially with wool. I do millinery with thick dense wool felts, you can get them to do nearly anything with enough steam and stretching. But the stretching and shaping is one reason why it is so important (as Kate said) not to move around with your iron. Just press.