Hello,
I just finished skirt 113 from last January’s issue. It’s a slim fitting pencil skirt with a yoke and a back godet instead of a vent. The problem is the godet -rather than draping nicely it just kind of pokes out at an angle and flops over to one side. It looks just too funky. You can see a similar but less extreme example: http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/012011-pencil-skirt-with-back-godet

I used lightweight tropical wool in a glen plaid, which is fairly soft and not stiff at all. The godet pattern piece is a perfect quarter circle, so the side seams are on the bias. Because the godet replaces a regular vent in this version, it attaches to the straight grain CB seam where the vent would otherwise be. I’m thinking there is a design flaw here, but I’m not sure how to correct it and would love some advice from those of you with design experience and fabric “behavior” knowledge. I have a little extra fabric to work with…

My goal is to make a softer godet. To achieve this, do you think I should:
1) Recut the godet to a smaller angle (less than quarter circle);
2) Make a new godet that is not a quarter circle, but a trapezoid ( narrower at top and wider at hem) and also attach to the skirt by creating a horizontal seam at the top of the godet;
3) Change the CB attachment seams so that they are angled rather than straight ( a scary option);
4) make the godet longer;
or 5) some other alternative?

Thanks for your knowledge and advice!

Jen

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    Nov 14, 2011, 02.31 PMby mickeygirl

    The width of the godet would depend on your stride. You need to be able to walk in this skirt?

    How about a pleated insert? You can sew the cease into the pleat and with a heavier fabric it will work.

    Maybe try cutting the godet so the bias is somewhere else. ????

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    Nov 14, 2011, 05.20 PMby jen .ss1

    It’s a really slim skirt, so it does needs some kind of ease in the back. If I can’t save the godet, a pleated insert is a good option—thanks mickeygirl. That at least would be better than the “shark fin” look now (as someone on Patternreview.com described her similar problem). As for saving the godet, I’m wondering if a weighted chain—like those sometimes used in jacket hems— would correct it.

  • Justoloco_large

    Nov 15, 2011, 01.28 AMby hwoodjusto

    after you sew the godet in, could you pin it so the center line of the godet falls exactly straight down and not to one side or the other and then bar tack the godet in place at the top point…might keep it in place and not fall to one side, and a bar tack is hardly visible….but then will also depend on the size of the godet…if it is small enough, I think it would hold….anyhow, good luck with it:)

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    Apr 12, 2012, 06.59 PMby jen .ss1

    This project was in danger of becoming a UFO, but I finally got around to resolving the shark-fin godet problem. There a probably other ways, but this is what I did: 1) Recut the godet with the center fold on the bias, rather than on the straight grain as the pattern instructed. 2) The hem on the original godet was a little bulky on the tropical weight wool I used. Instead I made a faced hem, using the lining fabric for the facing, also cut on the bias. Trimmed the (fashion fabric) hem down to almost nothing (about 3/16") and cut notches in the facing seam allowance due to the curved hem. 3) I also made a little silk (facing fabric) stay to support the godet and prevent the bias from stretching out of shape. This was probably overkill, but I did it anyway. The fin is reduced (softer) and looks much better. Will post a photo in my project page eventually…

    1 Reply
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      Apr 15, 2012, 09.21 AMby katexxxxxx

      That sounds pretty much what I’d have advised. Your fabric is probably a little too substantial for such a large godet. Reducing and taming it sounds like the way to go. :)

  • Logo4957b_large

    Apr 16, 2012, 04.30 AMby jen .ss1

    I agree. It’s a fairly lightweight tropical wool, but it has some body to it. It looks similar to the fabric that Burda’s sample seemed to be made of, so I think the center-straight grain placement was a design compromise. (The glen plaid does line up better when cut as instructed; it was a trade off). I wasn’t sure what to do with the unexpected fin, but after thinking awhile and doing some experiments, that’s what I arrived at. Always good to learn something new (even if it takes a few months)!

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