Burda Style For people who sew

ok, so i found some nice brown pleather and it’s screaming “make a coat out of me!”

-i know i need to use a longer stitch, but is there anything else that i need to do differently?
-i do want this to be warm, so what should i line/interline this with?
-can you think of a good pattern? looking for simple seams, maybe a little military styling, for a medium build.

thanks for your help!

Aug 21, 2009, 02.38 AM by oscarthegrouch108

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  Aug 23, 2009, 08.31 PMby themedusa

  Noticed that Voguefabrics has thinsulate for sale. http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/store/catalog/3M-Thinsulate-Thermal-Jacket-Insulation-p-865.html I’ve never sewn with it but it’s a thought.

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    Aug 23, 2009, 10.49 PMby oscarthegrouch108

    i’ll have to check that out…..that’s definitely one store that i’d love to see in person.

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  Aug 26, 2009, 06.46 AMby bekaem

  For cutting the leather i draw the pattern onto the back of the leather and then use a scalpel rather than scissors. I apply narrow strips of fusible interfacing (woven, comes already as a band rather than a sheet, but you can cut stripes from sheets) to all edges that will be sewn (wrong side of the leather). I use thin double sided tape to adjust the pieces on top of each other before sewing, pins or basting leaves marks. When sewing it’s best to tie the ends of the seams by hand, going back and forth damages the leather. I also find that when sewing i always have to ‘help’ my machine a bit by pulling the fabric very slightly – it’s probably a bit much for a small machine, but so far worked. Good luck, I’ll definitely make a leather jacket as well one day, looking forward to see yours.

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    Aug 27, 2009, 12.42 AMby oscarthegrouch108

    great tips! thanks so much!

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  Jan 11, 2010, 10.21 PMby brandymccoy

  Because leather or suede comes in many sizes and thickness it requires special care when sewing. Whether you are repairing leather or making something new it can be sewn by hand or by machine, but you should use a special needle to make the job easier and look nicer.For Hand Sewing:There is a special leather needle; its tip has three razor sharp edges. This makes it easier for the needle to pierce the material. The needles come in sizes and you can get them in a craft store that deals in leather.When you are sewing leather it is important to remember not to use pins to hold the material together, because it will leave marks in the leather. You can use hem clips or binder clips (clips that you pinch open to hold paper) to keep the fabric in place.If the leather is thick you may need an awl to poke holes in the leather or perhaps a leather handheld punch. This is used for thick leathers or those that you may want to actually lace up rather then sew. Make sure that you mark the holes off on the opposite side of the leather and that everything lines up the way it should for the best results.Machine Sewing:Leather and suede can be sewn with a sewing machine with special care. For the best results you should use a leather needle made especially for your machine. See manufactures instruction guide that comes with your machine and follow their recommendations. Each machine model will require a special needle made for that machine the leather craft store can make recommendations.Trying to sew with a regular needle might cause the thread to be uneven and the needle to break or bend. Like the hand needles the sewing machine needles have the three razor sharp points at the end that make it easier for the needles to pass through the leather. One brand of needle is the Schmetz Leather needlesIf possible you should use a Teflon pressure foot so that it passes over the leather or the suede with out pulling or snagging the material that can cause permanent damage.You can also use a Teflon adhesive tape on the bottom of your sewing foot, if you do not have a Teflon foot. It would be wise to also lengthen the stitch length, and finish off not by backstitching but by using a triangle or square knot.Never press seams with an iron, pry open with fingers carefully and roll a wallpaper roller over it or a brayer tool. You can use permanent contact cement to hold the seams down. Apply cement with a cotton swap and firmly roll press it down. The contact cement can be used to hem leather also, that way you do not have stitches coming through the leather. Of coarse if you are using very soft leather this might not matter.If adding a zipper be sure that you place the Teflon tape on the zipper foot.For a button hole use a stabilizer sheet on the back of the area where you are placing the button hole. You will need to press this on by using a Teflon pressing sheet so that you do not damage the leather.You can use a walking foot when sewing leather or suede’s, I do suggest placing Teflon tape on the foot. But it passes over the leather and suede nicely, with less chance of marring the material.

  When I was working with leather, I found this on the internet somewhere and printed it out. It’s been very helpful:)