Burda Style For people who sew

Hey all. I have had several problems as of late with my invisable zippers pulling appart at stress points, mostly at the waist section of my dresses. All dress have had a back zip and have been pretty fitted. All the zippers were new and after a few ‘on and offs’ with the dress using the zipper on and off my dress form it started to pull appart. Three times now I have had to replace the entire zipper before giving the dress to the intended wearer. SO FRUSTRATING. Advice anyone? Give up on the invisable? Just do a lapped zipper?

Sep 4, 2009, 05.45 PM by michelleiswell

• Report as Inappropriate

12 Posts

• 

  Sep 6, 2009, 11.29 PMby KateXXXXXX

  Use a waist stay. This will take the strain off the zip.
• 

  Sep 7, 2009, 05.02 AMby michelleiswell

  Ah yes! Good call. Thank you.
• 

  Sep 14, 2009, 03.15 PMby teresaschwarz

  I know this is probably a silly question but what is a waist stay and how do you make them?
• 

  Sep 14, 2009, 09.48 PMby Seemane

  I’m curious re: waist stays too :)
  I found this on Google… Couture sewing techniques – Google Books Result
  And this: Waist stay: A stable ribbon (often grossgrain) sewn inside a dress at the waist, used to support the dress.

  And I found this image from here:
  
• 

  Sep 15, 2009, 03.44 PMby teresaschwarz

  mmm looks like a non-stretching ribbon attached to the bottom/waist of the lining with bra closures. That seems like it might hinder the zipper? or make a bump? Anyone know how to make these?
• 

  Sep 16, 2009, 02.56 AMby nehmah

  Ideally, the hook and eyes/loops should be to one side of the zipper to keep from damaging the zipper tape or teeth. Directions in ( ) are for a dress with a left-side zipper. Measure the waistline from the center of the closed zipper, around the skirt waistline, back to the center of the closed zipper. Add 2 inches to that measurement. Mark the center back (center of the right-side skirt seamline). pin or baste the tape/ribbon over the waistline seam, to keep it in place. At the zipper, bring one side of the tape/ribbon across the zipper and fold it so it clears the zipper tape. Fold again so you have a firm base to attach the hooks or eyes. Stitch the tape at the inside fold. Bring the other half of the tape/ribbon to meet the first one. They should meet but not overlap. Fold, press, fold again, and stitch the same as the first side. Sew the hooks and eyes/loops on. There is a different method, but this is what I used after I saw the tear a hook had made in the zipper tape. I hope I have not confused you. Cordially, Nehmah
• 

  Sep 16, 2009, 11.05 AMby KateXXXXXX

  Traditionally the hook and eye are burried in a fold of the tape, to guard against snags and discomfort. On a light weight dress, use grossgrain ribbon. On something heavier, use Petersham.
• 

  Sep 16, 2009, 12.23 PMby teresaschwarz

  thanks nehmah and KateX!
• 

  Sep 25, 2009, 04.59 AMby michelleiswell

  you all rock!
• 

  Sep 27, 2009, 06.02 PMby maha1965

  very interesting information but do we have to use it always or just for the fitted dresses.
  As for the invisible zipper i baste it first with close hand stitching then with the sewing machine if i can ………it’s so hard i always have troubles with it
• 

  Sep 27, 2009, 08.38 PMby KateXXXXXX

  You only really need a waist stay when there is strain on the closure, of whatever type.

  I rarely bastet zippers of any sort… I occasionally pin concealed zips, if they are gong round curves. The only time I ALWAYS baste zips is when doing them on bias cut stuff.

  For concealed zips I like the BIG zip foot for my Husqvarna Lily. It’s tough enough to squish that zip coil open and allow really close stitching. I get fat better results with it than I have ever seen done with one of those special concealed zip feet…

  See: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Bridesmaid_horror_story/sewingzip.jpg

  And: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Bridesmaid_horror_story/niceziptop.jpg
• 

  Nov 16, 2009, 09.02 PMby MinkeyMonkey

  I’m not sure if this is applicable but you could also put the dress on and take the dress of by going overhead rather than overhip. If you step in and out of your dresses and if your hips are wider than your shoulders (mine are!) this is a good way to put less stress on the waist. Of course, that means you’d have to watch out if you wear make-up!