Thrilled that Burda patterns solved (almost) every fitting problem.
I measure as 44 but have broad shoulders and a small bust. Low front necklines I can fix, but the back neckline ALWAYS rolls out on patterns without a collar.
A larger angle on the shoulder-seam, by the neck, fixes the back but tightens the armhole. That creates a fold, towards the underarm.
There is too much going on for me. Does anyone have this problem, and suggestions for altering my cut?
(Just widen the shoulder on size 42? Should I use french curves to lower the armhole?)