I am making a very simple top, just one piece front and back. The pieces include a short sleeve. My first attempt was too snug at the bust, but freedom at the sleeves was fine when I moved my arms front or back. For my second attempt, I customized the pattern at the bust, which now fits fine. Now when i move my arms front or back, the sleeve area is binding, even though it is not tight to my body. I’m not sure how to address this — is the sleeve-area seam too low? Or is the problem to do with curve or relationship to the rest of the garment? Advice appreciated.

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  • Iphone_pictures_037_large

    Jan 31, 2014, 01.34 PMby Deanna31

    I’m very interested in this myself. I’ve had the same trouble, and just trying to work it out. I beleive a sleeve fits a bit better when the armhole seam is a little closer to the body. So if you trim a little off the bodice and then add a little more (and then a bit extra) to the sleeve to compensate, lowering the armhole at the same time and adding a little more to the width of the arm, I think you’ll have more movement.

    Does this sound right?

    Failing that, you could gather the sleeve a bit at the top.

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jan 31, 2014, 09.02 PMby katexxxxxx

    A higher, closer fitting armscye will allow greater freedom of movement. To make sure that the sleeve doesn’t bind at the top of the arm, you need to allow enough breadth across the sleeve cap. Measure round the upper arm from armscye to armscye about half way between shoulder seam line and the under arm to waist seamline, and add sufficient ease for comfort.

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