Burda Style For people who sew

Hello, I have never learned to draft a pattern, except for ethnic garments. These are made using squares, rectangles, and diamonds. If I were to draft a bodice sloper, would I still need to do a full bust adjustment? If so, I can’t see any advantage. If not….well, maybe I can learn a new skill. Cordially, Nehmah

Aug 28, 2009, 03.30 PM by nehmah

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15 Posts

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  Aug 28, 2009, 10.47 PMby jerwin

  Try it and see. Given that most, if not all of the FBA alterations— widening the dart, moving the bust point, lengthening the front, etc are part of the regular drafting process, I would imagine that further adjustment would not be necessary.
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  Aug 29, 2009, 12.22 AMby nehmah

  Good thought, now all I need is a kind-hearted soul who actually understands that a “snug-fitting tape measure” doesn’t mean one that droops or is so tight that I can’t catch my breath! Cordially, Nehmah
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  Aug 30, 2009, 02.32 PMby mickeygirl

  If you are using pattern draft instructions that actually use your unique measurements to make the pattern — you put on your best bra and measure over that. Do not pull the measuring tape so tight that you squeeze flesh, just tight enough so that it does not fall off when you are just holding the sides of the tape together while it is overlapped around you. Maybe try using a paper clip.

  Just with a normal breath measure, not puffing out and sucking in your ribs.

  When you draft a pattern for a bodice you add in ease so the fit looks modest and it is comfortable. Most drafting instructions will tell you to add 2 inches of ease since that will make a sloper that is rather close fitting — so that the fit can be observed and adjustments can be made if necessary (for example, one shoulder is longer or higher etc). The second sloper pattern could be made by adding more ease such as 4 inches or more over the bust if you feel that you need to be really modest.

  If you use your own bust measurements, the instructions should tell you what cup size you are going to draft for and how much the dart intake should be for. You should not have to adjust the bust after that unless there was some mistake in measuring before.
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  Aug 30, 2009, 07.35 PMby nehmah

  Thank you,both. I will need a somewhat looser fit, as much for comfort as modesty. Asthma is one of those “interesting” malfunctions that urge one to keep tight garments to a minimum. When you have an elephant sitting on the ribs, snug is not a good choice.;) I appreciate the advice, especially regarding the bra. Now, all I have to do is select which of my 12 downloads to use. You have no idea how many 1900’s tailors, dressmakers, and companies put out their version of the “infallible” drafting system! I have these twelve and am still finding more. I will post the (ahem) link to the site. Cordially, Nehmah

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    Aug 31, 2009, 05.07 AMby jerwin

    Patented curve sold separately.

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  Sep 1, 2009, 03.29 PMby 20beverly08

  what is the 12 website for the 1900s drafting systems? Also the ‘patented curve’ might be found at joann.com, hobbylobby.com, and nancysnotions.com. I think the patented curve is the same as the french curve, isn’t it? If it is used for making armholes, I believe it’s a french curve. I don’t own one yet, but it’s on my Christmas wish list that I gave to my husband. He told me, ‘pick one thing for Christmas this year.’ So, I gave him a long list, and told him, “It’s all in ONE basket!” LOL thanks, 20beverly08

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    Sep 1, 2009, 04.35 PMby jerwin

    LACIS sells a reproduction of the Picken square, should your drafting method need it. Detailed specifications are described in this patent should you wish to machine it yourself.

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    Sep 3, 2009, 09.57 PMby nehmah

    Oooh, I like the way you think. I have a set of four smaller curves from Hobby Lobby’s on-line store. but I would like a “proper” grown-up one someday. (I had a “SquareCurve” heavy plastic one but one of my family stepped on it and alas, no more curves. These small ones are perfect for children and adult necklines/armscyes. Not so hot for hip curves, though. Nehmah

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  Sep 3, 2009, 02.05 PMby mickeygirl

  One of my pattern drafting books actually had a curve in it that you could trace onto cardboard. I bought a plastic one. Usually they are available at most art supply stores or stores that sell drafting supplies for architects.

  Here is a photo of one. Maybe you can draft one up yourself and trace it onto card or a sheet of plastic. http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2008/07/25/new-look-6648-neckline/
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  Sep 3, 2009, 08.16 PMby nehmah

  Hello all, sorry I started to post the two best sites, in my mind, but had to tend to housework. Either scrub the kitchen floor or plant potatoes!. (BTW, this may take a couple of posts, as I am still iffy with links.) At: <a href"http//digicoll.library.wisc.edu/HumanEcol/subcollections/MillineryBooksAbout.html">drafting references> is the shorter but easier to read with 36 books, quite a few of which appear to be duplicates. To access teh .pdf click on each section/chapter of a book. Cordially, Nehmah (Now, to check the link…

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    Sep 3, 2009, 08.22 PMby nehmah

    Try this:

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    Sep 3, 2009, 08.47 PMby nehmah

    Or this:

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    Sep 3, 2009, 08.52 PMby nehmah

    Or this, (please be patient, I’m still learning, POORLY, but learning!)

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  Sep 3, 2009, 09.00 PMby nehmah

  At: link here I hope
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  Sep 3, 2009, 09.04 PMby nehmah

  AHA! at: link here click on “all Sewn Up” for the drafting book listings. (I’m not pushing my linking luck any further, today) and scroll down. Some are repeats. N
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  Sep 3, 2009, 09.08 PMby nehmah

  Now for number two: At: link here and keep on scrolling until you see a likely source. You have a choice of download methods. I use the .pdfs. N
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  Sep 3, 2009, 09.11 PMby nehmah

  Sorry, At: link here N
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  Sep 3, 2009, 09.14 PMby nehmah

  More sources tomorrow. I will be playing around with a scan to see if I can bring up the MB Picken tool and draw off a cardboard replica. I will most likely buy one from the Lacis group, as i am not the tidiest drawing student on the planet. Cordially, Nehmah
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  Sep 6, 2009, 03.02 AMby 20beverly08

  talked to Mom about the curve template. She said, ‘Your grandmother and I used different sized bowls and cups from the kitchen, depending on the curve. Why didn’t I think of that before?
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  Dec 3, 2009, 08.11 PMby ncn6

  Hey nehmah, did you ever end up making a bodice sloper? I am thinking of trying one soon and wondering how yours went…

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    Dec 4, 2009, 04.58 PMby nehmah

    My efforts were “not good” as my spouse took the measurements some 3 mos ago. I have lost weight, only by limiting my carbs to keep a very tight leash on the blood sugar numbers. As a result the previous sloper, while adequate, needs to be replaced. I won’t be using the,"wait until I am XXX pounds on the scale. I am what I am and need clothing now, not some day in the possible future. (I used to tell a good friend that I didn’t do that because in everyone’s life that is the chance of meeting a providential coal truck. ;) I guess if could post the sloper with the exact numbers used. N

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    Dec 4, 2009, 06.47 PMby ncn6

    Funny, I’m actually having a similar issue… I’ve lost some weight because of a change in medication, and I keep wondering whether it’s worth making a sloper now or if I’ll just change sizes again. I think I’ll just go ahead anyway and if I have to make another one later, my second attempt will probably be better than the first :) What sources did you use for making your sloper? I was planning on using the instructions from this book:
    http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Pattern-Cutting-Womens-Wear/dp/1405175672
    It seems pretty clear, although getting the measurements might be tricky.

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  Dec 5, 2009, 02.09 AMby mlssfshn

  Try this sight I currently teach pattern making from this book I find it the easiest to read and follow and you get the whole book on-line for free. Modern Pattern Design