Burda Style For people who sew

As I am slightly plus size, with a large derriere, I find that when I make a skirt/dress it is always shorter at the back than the front, as I make it with the same skirt length front & back.

Do others worry about altering this or do you just live with it? (after all, every off the rack garment I buy does the same thing).

How do I go about getting an even hem length?

Nov 11, 2010, 03.29 AM by redscootergirl

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6 Posts

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  Nov 14, 2010, 03.11 AMby mlssfshn

  Sounds like you have a fuller butt than the average person. Your skirts need to be longer at center back. Add length there and redraft you hem up to the original hem towards the side seams with a sloping curve.
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  Nov 14, 2010, 08.37 AMby katexxxxxx

  You need to add the extra where you need it, at hip level, not at the hem… Slash the pattern from CB rtro side seam at the hip, add the extra, and true up the seam to a nice curve. You will find that skirt patterns with a shaped back seam rather than a straight one will fit you better.

  Where it is important for pattern matching to maintain the hem level, spread the pattern UPWARDS from the slash line, not down. That way the extra is added above the slash, maintaining hem pattern integrity.

  Always test a new pattern as a toile before cutting the good fabric: you may well need to refit back darts to maintain a smooth fit.

  You may also find that your waistline dips in the front: this is quite common in plus sizes. it will exaggerate the problem. If you do, you need to lower the front waistline, not take up the hem. Put on a skirt with a good fixed waistband and have a photo or two taken from the side so you can assess where you need to make alterations.
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  Nov 26, 2010, 10.33 PMby magdamagda

  front and back – on waist line center front goes down compared to sides, center back goes up (let’s say 1 cm, but see what works for you) … I’m no expert in plus sizes and the 2 ladies who replied know what they are talking abt so consider their opinion first, I’m offering my intuition plus something…

  the fit in the upper part of the skirt can determine how the hem falls also – choose a 2 piece pattern back side and double darts to spread the waist – hips difference uniformly ; back pieces curved on center back line

  find the right formulas for you on a muslin and keep them for further reference to adapt other patterns

  If you’ve already “done it” have someone help you with a long unflexible measuring tape and some chalk by measuring the same distance from the ground all around the skirt

  good luck!
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  Jun 21, 2011, 06.39 PMby Cedricw

  cool website
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  Nov 14, 2011, 02.40 PMby mickeygirl

  Measure your hips from side seam to seam: front and back and compare. You might have to make your back piece wider if there is a huge difference.
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  Jan 10, 2012, 06.15 PMby squarebob

  if i remember rightly from collage if it rides up at the back there is too much material at the front and if it rides up at the front theres too much at the back anyone else heard of this?