Burda Style For people who sew

As I am slightly plus size, with a large derriere, I find that when I make a skirt/dress it is always shorter at the back than the front, as I make it with the same skirt length front & back.

Do others worry about altering this or do you just live with it? (after all, every off the rack garment I buy does the same thing).

How do I go about getting an even hem length?

Nov 11, 2010, 03.29 AM by redscootergirl

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  Nov 14, 2010, 03.11 AMby mlssfshn

  Sounds like you have a fuller butt than the average person. Your skirts need to be longer at center back. Add length there and redraft you hem up to the original hem towards the side seams with a sloping curve.
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  Nov 14, 2010, 08.37 AMby katexxxxxx

  You need to add the extra where you need it, at hip level, not at the hem… Slash the pattern from CB rtro side seam at the hip, add the extra, and true up the seam to a nice curve. You will find that skirt patterns with a shaped back seam rather than a straight one will fit you better.

  Where it is important for pattern matching to maintain the hem level, spread the pattern UPWARDS from the slash line, not down. That way the extra is added above the slash, maintaining hem pattern integrity.

  Always test a new pattern as a toile before cutting the good fabric: you may well need to refit back darts to maintain a smooth fit.

  You may also find that your waistline dips in the front: this is quite common in plus sizes. it will exaggerate the problem. If you do, you need to lower the front waistline, not take up the hem. Put on a skirt with a good fixed waistband and have a photo or two taken from the side so you can assess where you need to make alterations.
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  Nov 26, 2010, 10.33 PMby magdamagda

  front and back – on waist line center front goes down compared to sides, center back goes up (let’s say 1 cm, but see what works for you) … I’m no expert in plus sizes and the 2 ladies who replied know what they are talking abt so consider their opinion first, I’m offering my intuition plus something…

  the fit in the upper part of the skirt can determine how the hem falls also – choose a 2 piece pattern back side and double darts to spread the waist – hips difference uniformly ; back pieces curved on center back line

  find the right formulas for you on a muslin and keep them for further reference to adapt other patterns

  If you’ve already “done it” have someone help you with a long unflexible measuring tape and some chalk by measuring the same distance from the ground all around the skirt

  good luck!
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  Jun 21, 2011, 06.39 PMby Cedricw

  cool website
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  Nov 14, 2011, 02.40 PMby mickeygirl

  Measure your hips from side seam to seam: front and back and compare. You might have to make your back piece wider if there is a huge difference.
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  Jan 10, 2012, 06.15 PMby squarebob

  if i remember rightly from collage if it rides up at the back there is too much material at the front and if it rides up at the front theres too much at the back anyone else heard of this?
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  Oct 18, 2012, 05.46 AMby Wendy Ruggles-Wolfe

  I agree with katexxxxxx, and would like to add a few more details.

  1)

  Imagine that you are sewing an A-line skirt with horizontal stripes (bear with me on this one). From what you describe, the lines will curve up at the back & not be parallel to the ground.

  The pattern needs to be altered in a way which ensures that at the hip & hem lines – the stripes are parallel to the ground. This is why you alter the pattern above the hip.

  (If you add the extra length at the bottom center-back of the skirt & redraft the hem line to curve up to the side seam… the hem will not line up with the stripes AND they will still curve upwards.)

  Therefore, the solution is to add more height to the center-back & redraft the curve to meet at the original side seam connection point.

  2)

  IMPT! When you do this, you have to think about the impact this newly drawn seam line will have on your waistband or skirt facings. The new curve might be longer (or shorter) than the original line!

  (In a perfect world – you can draft it to have the same length. Life is rarely perfect…)

  If you can keep the same length as the original, chances are you will not have to alter the waistband. If the length has changed – you’ll have to alter the waistband as well.

  3)

  If the skirt is faced (no waistband) – you will always have to re-draft the back facing pattern piece. You’ve changed the curve of the waist & have to make a facing piece to match.

  4)

  You might discover that you need to alter both the center-back & sides of the skirt. That might sound nuts, but it all depends upon where & how your body curves.

  Going back to the A-line skirt with horizontal stripes. Imagine it on your body & stand sideways to a mirror. It might be that the lines start pulling up before the side seams.

  If this is the case then you might want to consider adding height at the side seams as well. Sadly, this means altering both the front & back patterns & fussing over side seam lengths. Plus the waistband/lining pieces.

  5)

  While the horizontal stripe A-line skirt might sound like a crazy idea… it is a simplification of the issues one faces when sewing/tailoring a plaid skirt. So not so crazy after all (grin!).

  Yes, a lot of detail. But hopefully helpful. I have a sway back & therefore have a lot of empathy for the changes you are dealing with.

  If you can find it at a library, “Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach” by Leichty is a great reference. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1563677830/) It has a very clear chapter on how to alter patterns. And it has great detail on how to alter for specific body shapes.

  Good luck!
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  Nov 12, 2012, 03.59 AMby tothepointe

  Sometimes the problem can also be not enough width across the back causing the back to hang on the fullest part. So you either need extra fabric across the width or across the length. It all depends really on whether your fullness is evenly spread or concentrated towards the center back. If you don’t have a center back seam then maybe try adding extra width first.
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  Jan 12, 2013, 05.17 AMby jenss-1

  If it’s not a lot, just fix it in the hem. Get some help and mark an even hem with a hem marker (looks like a standing yardstick). My mom always said to add a little bit of length to the hem in the back anyway, since it tends to get wrinkled or pulled up a little with ordinary movement and sitting.