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Hello everybody,

I have been thinking about making a nice warm winter coat for some time. Since I’m not very experienced (been sewing for a year and made about 6 easy to medium projects), I am a bit hesitant to start.

My insecurities:
1. I feel unsure about working with three layers. How difficult is this?
I was thinking to make a wool (or wool blend) outer layer (haven’t bought it yet). And I already have some funny stretch satin-like material for the lining (originally intended for a dress). To make it warmer and windresistant, I would like to add a layer in between. I am thinking of using “molton” for the in-between layer (already bought). (Sorry, I can’t find the English translation of molton, a lot of people use it to protect mattresses or as an extra layer under a table cloth. It is soft and white).

2. I am wondering if I should make it a size bigger than I would usually pick for clothing, because it is going to be thicker with the extra layer.

3. I have a pattern in mind: Burda 7732 and then the A variant. It doesn’t seem too complicated (no complicated sleeves or small details).

I would be interested in your experiences in this kind of projects! Or if you have any recommendations, I would be very happy…
:)

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  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Dec 11, 2009, 09.06 AMby katexxxxxx

    Coat patterns come with wearing ease to make them fit over other clothing, so there is no need to make a larger size. Just fit over your clothes and it’ll be fine.

    Use coat lining, not the stretch stuff. You will have difficulty making the two work together. Look for a twilled or satin coat lining (heavier than dress lining, and smoother than most of the poly dress linings you see). For a bit of extra warmth, see if you can find one that is poly on the satin side and brushed cotton on the inside.

    To make a warm interlining for a coat, you should really use a proper interlining as this will wear better, be more cleanable (you’ll be able to dry clean it along with the coat), and warmer. Look for something like Thinsulate.

    Interlinings for this sort of garment are sewn separately from the outer shell and the lining, get basted in place along the seam allowances at the shoulders, and hang loose between the lining and the coat shell. They usually stop at about hip level. The sleeves are not usually interlined. You don’t interline the collar or cuffs.

    The other way to make the coat warmer is to quilt a garment insulating batting to the lining fabric. There are several on the market. Don’t use ordinary cotton quilt batting or poly quilt batting: it will disintegrate if used like this. Quilt the fabric before cutting out the pieces, or try to find a ready quilted coat lining.

    DO NOT confuse interlining with interfacing, which is applied to the outer shell fabric or to the lining before making up.

    I like that coat pattern. Looks very cosy.

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Dec 11, 2009, 09.54 AMby katexxxxxx

    PS!

    Thinsulate: http://www.pennineoutdoor.co.uk/catalogue.asp?sID=5

    Coat linings: http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/Content/Products/23114_l.jpg

    This is just to let you see what I mean.

    The old fashioned way to interline a wool coat is to use wool flannel lining, which is light and fluffy. You’ll probably need a tailoring supplies place for this.

  • Missing

    Dec 12, 2009, 11.01 PMby hplatero

    I recently purchased a very nice wool coat and was thinking of replacing the existing linining with something to make it wind-resistant. How hard would it be to add an interlining or insulating batting to an existing coat? Thank you

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Dec 12, 2009, 11.05 PMby katexxxxxx

      Not hard, but you would need to remove the lining carefully, insert the interlining, and put the lining back in.

  • Missing

    Dec 28, 2009, 03.43 PMby sugo

    What kind of fabric do you recommend for the outer layer?

    I want to make a cape similar to this pattern http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/burda_PLUS_FASHION/402_Cape/1270777-1722391-1722393-1722400.html but am having trouble finding a wool/wool-blend that will hang well and be warm enough.

  • 6e3656aa7036783b3e4bbc29f34d1029385afafe_large

    Dec 28, 2009, 04.21 PMby wzrdreams

    Oh, I think you should also start reading Gertie’s blog. She’s making a nice winter coat and has some great video posts showing how to handle the interlining and some of the other advanced steps like easing and setting the sleeve and padstitching the collar/lapel. It looks like a lot of steps, but seeing it done gives me courage to attempt the more advanced techniques on my next coat/jacket.

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Dec 29, 2009, 03.16 PMby katexxxxxx

    A nice Melton would make up well.

  • Senior_191_large

    Dec 30, 2009, 06.19 AMby joboenvogue

    Hey Jiska! I’m actually working on the Burda 7735 as we speak! Burda patterns aren’t the easiest to follow, compared to American companies, but using this pattern has actually been fairly easy! The longest part is cutting out the dreaded fabric…pick a good wool, 100% if you can get (mine is only 80% and it’s nice but I’d much rather have it completely wool. Check fabric.com regularly. They have the best deals on melton. And definitely have an interlining. If you’re concerned about bulk, pick Thinsulate as others have suggested or if you must cut back, line the sleeves (its the part of your body that gets cold the fastest). Good luck!

  • Main_picture_large

    Jan 2, 2010, 08.15 AMby 5294sandras

    I am interested in making a coat also. I am going to take a sewing class and my first project will be to make a fleece hoodie which will help me develop skills such as seam pockets, adding the hood, button holes, a zipper, and adding elastic or a drawstirng to the waistline. My concern has always been selecting the correct size. This pattern will help me to correctly select the proper size and to alter the pattern so that it looks good on me.

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Jan 5, 2010, 10.36 AMby katexxxxxx

    That looks good. And thanks for the tip. Do you have pix of your coat?

    My next one will be this one: http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V1083.htm?tab=vintage_vogue&page=1

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