Burda Style For people who sew

Hey everyone,

I’m currently using the book: “patternmaking for fashion design 5th.edition”. I’ve managed to draft and make a basic bodice based on my personal measurement.

One thing is really troubling me being that the author ask for us to measure a front/back measurement separately, for example the shoulder line.

But what happens is that the front and the back shoulder line does not match! I know from human anatomy that the back shoulder line is definitely longer than the front, but if you have the back shoulder line way longer than the front shoulder line, how are we even suppose to sew it together? Not to say the possibility that the whole bodice might be slanted after sewing it that way.

I hope anyone that have used the book or just pretty good with patternmaking can tell me if this is normal and if I could just continue using this method in the book. Thanks!

Sep 8, 2010, 04.35 PM by darkapril

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4 Posts

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  Sep 9, 2010, 05.05 PMby katexxxxxx

  Oi should be about half an inch longer. Pin both ends and ease the rest in.
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  Jul 9, 2011, 01.33 PMby sabrina

  Um, do you need to halve the back shoulder measurement?
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  Sep 13, 2011, 02.00 PMby mickeygirl

  If you can get a hold of Helen Armstrong’s book — there is a chart of all measurements needed for a sloper according to standard sizes. You can guess that everyone is not a perfect size.
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  Oct 2, 2011, 02.26 PMby patti-r

  Do not have that book. Agree about easing the back to match and almost no one a perfect size.

  Check the following: I use these & FBA on bodice slopers.

  Narrow shoulder? (Maybe yours could be a Broad shoulder, or Sloping shoulder.)

  Forward Shoulder? Would make the back shoulder longer, front shoulder shorter but seam would match at shoulder seam to meet your body measurements.

  Could you have a slightly rounded back?

  If the back sloper is that much wider may require a dart to meet the width of front piece or easing by placing finger behind presser foot may take up the minor slack, find this site useful: http://www.scribd.com/doc/48831401/null

  Hope this helps.