Burda Style For people who sew

I haven’t been sewing very long (under a year), so this sounds very iffy to me. I want to make a very special dress that has the long, contrasting gores of Kwik Sew’s 3294 (version A), but the sleeves and neckline of McCall’s M5805 (version C). Can anyone, ANYONE give me a few tips about how to accomplish this?

Links:

McCall’s 5805

Kwik Sew 3294

Mar 11, 2010, 04.05 AM by oddconfection

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5 Posts

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  Mar 12, 2010, 05.08 AMby mlssfshn

  First I would make an illustration by tracing the parts from the images I want to use. FYI….both of the patterns have illustrations and no pictures that means they are untested so don’t expect them to make up exactly like the pictures. I would then, make a muslin of the top of the McCall’s dress and a muslin of the whole kwik sew dress and put them on together mark where they meet below the bust and cut the top of the Kwik sew pattern off at that point and sew the muslins together to get an idea of what the finished piece would look like and how it fit.
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  Mar 12, 2010, 05.08 AMby oscarthegrouch108

  its a little tricky…..the McCall’s top sleeve are fairly easy, use only the bodice pieces (it looks like there’s a seam there). for the skirt from Kwik Sew…you’ll have to figure out where to cut the pieces so that the waist hits you in the right spot (i would just hold the pattern up to you/dress form with the waist marking in the right spot). you will also need to make sure that the skirt circumference (at the empire waist) is the same as the bottom of the bodice.

  good luck!
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  Mar 23, 2010, 03.50 PMby alisondahl

  You can see that the McCalls pattern has a seam line at the waist and the Kwik Sew pattern does not- this is what makes the combination tricky, but it could also be your answer. Here’s what I would do:

  Take the top part of the McCalls pattern (sleeves and neckline) and lay it over the Kwik Sew pattern. See how they line up at the waistline. Do they match up within a couple of inches? Are the waistline marks at the same point? If so, I would trace a line onto the Kwik Sew pattern where the McCalls top ends, being careful to follow the design line. Do the same on the back. If you don’t want to damage the original patterns make a copy of them onto pattern paper. Cut the Kwik sew pattern at the new waistline and add seam allowance. Then I would sew a mock-up, or muslin, and see if this combo works.
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  Apr 7, 2010, 04.10 PMby 20beverly08

  Those are godets, not gores in the kwik sew pattern. Godets are a single extra piece of fabric with both its sides sewn into the seam line. Go online and enter ‘godets sewing tutorial’ for a wealth of videos on how to add godets to your dress. Since the Kwik sew pattern already has the godets, just add them to the McCalls pattern skirt in the seams, and when combining the two patterns, make 6 seams marks in the bodice of the McCalls pattern to add the Kwik Sew godets skirt: In the bodice, mark both side seams, two back seams, each directly down from your collar bone (shoulder) on each side of the back, and two front seams spaced evening apart, even with any princess seam line in the front. This will give you 6 godets in your dress. Omit the bottom ruffle in the McCalls Pattern, since you want godets in the skirt. for more inspiration, look up ‘skirt godets’ online in a basic search. Many Victorian and ‘Gibson Girl’ era dresses have 6 to 8 gore skirts with godets. Your idea has great masterpiece potential. Please let me know how it goes.
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  Feb 7, 2011, 02.20 PMby petitpoix

  Trace the patterns exactly, including the darts, etc., cut them out, lay them one on top of the other and then retrace the good parts. There is you new pattern.