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I love interfacings, they give great structure and support to any piece of fabric, some pieces without interfacing can feel weak and flimsy, but choosing the WRONG interfacing, and your garment can feel stiff and cheap. Is there some sort of guide of what type of fabrics go well with some interfacings? I know coats, jackets and blazers may need stiffer interfacings like Hymo , but what about pieces made from softer fabrics like charmeuse, crepe de chine, and cotton voile? What type of Interfacings can be used for these delicate fabrics, if any.. And if none are needed, how can you prevent them from feeling “cheap and flimsy?”
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Aug 27, 2012, 08.49 PMby jenss-1
Hi Max, I don’t think there’s really a set rule. It is helpful just to hold the fabric and (proposed) interfacing together and see how they drape together. That said, I like to use a light slightly stretchy interfacing with many different fabrics. Not sure what its called, but I think it is nylon, and it comes in either a smooth or crepe texture. I also tend to use different interfacings in different parts of the garment, for example in a blouse, even if I use the aforementioned lightweight interfacing in a placket or facing, I would probably use an interfacing with a little more body in a collar.
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Aug 27, 2012, 08.51 PMby jenss-1
P.S. The lightweight stretchy interfacing can be found at Steinlauf and Stoller.
Aug 28, 2012, 09.06 AMby Lindsay Whitehead
As a general rule match the weight of the interfacing with the weight of the fabric is good. Of course that depends what you are doing. Also I have been told if you want more support than a similar weight interfacing rather than going for a heavier weight use more than one layer. I don’t know if this applies to iron on interfacing.
There is a new product out here (Australia) and I can’t remember the name of it but it was so fine you could use it on say silk Georgette and such light sheer fabrics. If it is available here I’m sure you can get it in the US.