Burda Style For people who sew

most blouses and tops I make, always seem to end with same problem. When I raise my arms the whole blouse rides up and will stay there. I realize I have to adjust the pattern but can’t picture and figure out what. The arm holes? longer or shorter? or is it the bust, which I am pretty busty? I like my tops to be a bit form fitting. The tops I have the most problems are cotton and cotton blends. Thank you for some advice.

Jan 14, 2012, 04.41 AM by Michele Griffin Creamer

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  Jan 14, 2012, 12.16 PMby katexxxxxx

  The explanation for this is a bit long and complicated. I suggest you read David Page Coffin’s Shirtmaking book. You may also find these articles useful:

  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4483/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice/page/all

  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/5052/on-fitting-sleeves/page/all

  Basically, what you need to do is make sure the garment fits you properly and that if you spend a lot of time lifting your arms, you need extra ease in the arm and shoulder area, particularly under the arms. This is NOT achieved by cutting larger armholes. That is, in fact, counterproductive! Where you need the ease is in the sleeve length in relation to the armscye.
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  Jan 14, 2012, 01.37 PMby AC1972

  loved your reply katexxxxx, very informative without being overcomplicated

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    Jan 14, 2012, 11.06 PMby katexxxxxx

    Glad to be of service. ;)

    They used to arrange extra fabric in RAF uniform shirts by having a ‘grown on’ under-arm gusset. This allowed aircrew to reach things like over-head controls and canopy handles. You don’t see this detail on the modern uniform shirts as the aircrew wear special flying clothing these days, rather than battle dress and a sheepskin jacket or a canvas flying suit over normal shirt and underwear. These days they tend to wear a special ‘G’ suit with differential compression for helping to prevent blackouts during high G force turns, over which they wear an ‘immersion suit’, which is a bit like diving suit and seal round neck and wrist to prevent hypothermia when dropping out of the sky into the North Sea and North Atlantic.