Burda Style For people who sew

I thought I would start a thread on this because there have been so many responses lately about sizing (especially plus sizes) whenever new patterns are posted here. This is an issue that I feel strongly about, because although I love clothes, I hate the messages that the fashion and beauty industries send about what is normal and beautiful. For me, sewing can be a great way to get around this by making clothes that fit and flatter you without regard to what the garment industry produces, but only when you have the resources to make stuff that actually fits you!

In an ideal world, I think that patterns would come in sizes zero to infinity, with petite and tall options and cup size alterations, and cost two bucks :) Since that’s obviously not realistic, here are my (well-intentioned) suggestions for some other things that could be done to make BurdaStyle more size-positive, especially for us on the larger end of the size range:

1. Use LOTS of different models — short, tall, busty, flat, straight, curvy and round, at the top of the pattern size range and at the bottom. It always makes such a difference for me to see someone whose body even vaguely resembles my own, and I think we should all get to experience that (if models are in short supply, I’ll model in exchange for a free dress!).

2. Offer sloper patterns in a full range of sizes. Having a basic sloper pattern would give me a lot more confidence in being able to alter or even draft my own patterns.

3. Along with slopers, provide links to how-tos on how to make alterations in whatever direction you need them (short or tall, large bust or small bust). I know there are lots of these already on BurdaStyle, but sometimes it’s hard to find them if you don’t know what you’re looking for, so maybe it would just be a matter of linking them in better.

4. Feature tips and tricks on how to make patterns fit plus size bodies better. Since the BurdaStyle team has great experience with making plus versions of regular size patterns, I would love to know what some of the common fit issues or tricks are.

I don’t want to make it sound like I am unappreciative of the great resources and patterns that BurdaStyle already has, or like I’m totally unaware of the fact that BurdaStyle has limits on their own resources and what they can do. I know that these suggestions also represent my perspective and are likely not what everyone would want — for example, I’m sure there are people who would rather pay more for patterns in a wider size range than have resources for grading or altering them, and that’s totally fair. I just thought I’d put these out there as a way of starting a discussion on this topic, and am happy to contribute whatever limited knowledge I have to making BurdaStyle even better.

Dec 3, 2009, 10.01 PM by ncn6

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27 Posts

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  Dec 6, 2009, 06.35 AMby sew4my3

  Thank you for the wonderful suggestions and the Burdastyle team will take them in for review. Your contribution is always needed and appreciated!
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  Dec 8, 2009, 07.39 PMby alden

  These are great suggestions! There are some issues in terms of resources (models and production of the garments take a lot of vital resources) so we look to our members to create these versions and variations of the patterns. In terms of linking and creating resources for plus size pattern creations/alterations I think that it is a great idea. i will discuss what can be done with this in the future. we will totally look back to this list in the future, thanks!

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    Dec 23, 2009, 02.38 PMby wzrdreams

    Hey Alden, l bet you could get some of the NY based Burdastyle members to vounteer model. Seeing you model the plus sized garments makes me want a chance to see how and what size would work for me. Perhaps if you had guest models you could treat the entire project as an example of size choosing and fit modifications.

    I love the suggestions above and would only add that it is very important to nest the graded pattern properly for all pattern peices so that we can blend between sizes if desired.

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  Dec 23, 2009, 07.35 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  You wouldn’t have to make up the garment in all sizes, but it would be neat if one week we see the feature pattern made up in a 34, then the next weeks feature pattern is in a 42, then the following week another different size, instead of the same sizes all the time :)

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    Jan 3, 2010, 09.06 PMby ncn6

    Yeah, this was my thought exactly! If the pattern goes from 34-44, it would be great to see a model in the middle or high end of the size range instead of always seeing the sample made up in the smallest sizes.

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  Dec 23, 2009, 05.12 PMby anajan

  I think some of these issues (points 3 and 4 of the ncn6’s list) could (and should) be treated in the BS blog posts I discussed about here. The idea is to make a series of blog posts on BS, written by various members of this community, with handy advices on altering basic patterns, in order to achieve better garment fit, or to create a completely new design.

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    Jan 4, 2010, 04.45 PMby alden

    hey anajan,
    i owe you an email on this! I totally love the idea but may need your help!

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    Jan 5, 2010, 11.06 AMby anajan

    Alden, I would love to help!
    I’ll be waiting for your email.

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  Dec 23, 2009, 08.15 PMby misssylver

  Due to being a girl with an hourglass figure I find it really difficult to adapt patterns so that they fit properly. It would be helpful to have more pointers on how to make the waist smaller sighs

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    Jan 4, 2010, 04.35 PMby alden

    check this out! http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/adjust-patterns-for-mixed-sizes

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    Jan 5, 2010, 08.23 PMby wzrdreams

    Alden, this only works if the pattern is nested correctly with all pattern pieces sharing a common seam line or corner. This doesn’t work for the Liz blouse because the side front and back pattern pieces are staggered and do not share any common points.

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  Dec 29, 2009, 11.57 AMby teamydear

  I want to put in my vote for the slopers! This way, we can try out all necessary alterations for our body on this one pattern and then apply them to all the rest of BurdaStyle’s patterns!
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  Jan 3, 2010, 09.04 PMby ncn6

  I’m happy to see that so many people have commented on this thread! It’s been a while since I’ve been on, what with the holidays and all. I like the idea of having a “guest blog” about fit issues where members could show how they alter patterns for a better fit. I just got “Fit for Real People” as a christmas present, and it has a section that’s similar to this where they show half a dozen or so people of all different body shapes, and show how to make pattern modifications for them. I’d be happy to write an entry on how to alter things for the short and busty figure!
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  Jan 4, 2010, 05.42 PMby alden

  Hey Guys! This is an awesome idea! I am working on the blogging schedule and will be in contact with you for all these great ideas!
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  Jan 27, 2010, 01.16 AMby misssylver

  Hello lovelies,

  As an added incentive for Burda to become a bit more diverse with it’s models this week Karl Lagerfeld (sizist bigot) has shot Miss Dirty Martini (amazingly curvy woman). If Karl Lagerfeld can change his attitude to a certain extent (this is the man who said nobody wanted to see “fatties” on the catwalk and by fat he meant above a UK size ten) then Burda can definitely do it!
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  Mar 24, 2010, 12.03 AMby queenorivers

  No i think all those ideas are brilliant and will make a lot of members feel more comfortable and welcome while the staff can continue to put out patterns in a reasonable range of sizes without going to infinity!
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  Mar 30, 2010, 09.47 PMby badkitty-1

  I too being on the plus-end of the scale would also like to see more about fitting and more variation in the size of the models. Having a few extra curves really means things hang differently, etc. Would love some help on an FBA but might be beyond help :) x

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    Mar 31, 2010, 07.05 AMby ncn6

    I’ll trade you your corset making skills for FBA knowledge any day!

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  Mar 31, 2010, 06.43 AMby stephanie-l

  Yes, I would really love to see models for garments sized for plus size girls who are infact plus sizes, because fabric drapes and hangs differently over bumps and heaven forbid lumps. The majority of the world are not skinny, size 6 or 8, ten foot tall women, nor size 6 or 8, short women with petite frames. Lets see the styles on shapes and forms that more truly represent the full range of figures out there -whether or not the fashion industry considers this acceptable to do or not. Lets see the tiny girls, the medium girls and the grande girls all looking fantastic in the same garments! Having a sloper is by the way, a brilliant idea and the more help you can offer to us on fitting for different bust sizes and hip/ waist sizes, the better. Thanks for a great website, too!
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  Apr 1, 2010, 03.27 AMby allygally

  I would also love to see a sloper pattern. Or, since there isn’t one yet, we could all use the sloper put out by the Big 3, and get a forum topic going so that we can all add our insight into helping each other fit it properly. I have the pattern myself but have never actually put it together. I think it would be really helpful in understanding my own fit.

  The model who was photographed for the Francesca pattern is just beautiful. She was really stunning, and I would love to see more models like her on this site. As a plus size girl myself who struggles with body image on a daily basis, I want to see women like me who are beautiful and inspiring. Seeing models who are so thin wearing outfits doesn’t help me consider purchasing the patterns because I just can’t envision myself in the style. I understand that the pattern styling and grading are different for plus sizes, but a few more patterns would be really nice.

  3 Replies

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    Apr 1, 2010, 04.16 PMby ncn6

    Want to do a sloper draft-along? I’ve been meaning to make a bodice sloper for ages, but somehow I never get around to it. Maybe we could motivate each other!

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    Apr 1, 2010, 08.55 PMby alden

    I love this idea! I know that alison recently did a post/patterns for slopers

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    Apr 3, 2010, 03.02 PMby ncn6

    Let’s do it! Alden, do you have any ideas on how to set this up so that we can all see each other’s projects as we post them? Maybe just start another discussion thread? Also I think that the only sloper patterns we have on here are in smaller sizes, so if anyone knows of where we might be able to find plus size slopers on the interwebs, that would be good…

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  Apr 1, 2010, 09.16 PMby badkitty-1

  Thanks so much, ncn6 but it is very easy to fit someone when they are stood in front of you. Even though I have been sewing for a while, I find it impossible to ever make anything for me that fits in the bust as I have stupid proporations. I would be so up for a sloper-draft-a-long. Have needed the motivation to make one for ages :)
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  Apr 4, 2010, 09.13 PMby monibug

  A sloper draft along would be great….I just happen to be starting on some for myself :)
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  Oct 22, 2010, 11.56 AMby Anne Wagenhauser

  At the risk of sounding really ignorant here, what on earth is a “sloper”???
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  Nov 16, 2010, 02.18 PMby Angela Kane

  If you are from the UK like me, it means “block”. If you are not sure what a block is, it is used by all designers for flat pattern drafting. It represents a basic bodice, skirt, trouser or sleeve shape in a particular size. You trace off a block knowing that it will fit and then you do your magic by cutting it up and moving it around to create a style, adding fulness here, pleats there, lowering necklines and armholes and moving darts around.

  The only time that you don’t use blocks for designing is if you drape directly onto a dress form.

  Hope that helps.
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  May 3, 2011, 08.04 AMby denise2003

  Since I was a child, the most common sizes in the United States for adult women have been 10, 12, and 14. In the fashion world, these sizes are considered “plus”. I am bigger than that now (blame menopause), but I spent the vast majority of my life in those sizes. This is the size range most patterns should be in. I would love to see slopers and models in these sizes, as well as larger sizes.
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  May 3, 2011, 06.18 PMby mskelly

  I agree with your post, thank you I have done many posts on here asking to swap patterns with women who are a UK size 14-16 or have a above C cup bra size! Burda is a great resource and I love it but we do need more size variety especially for the more curvier and top heavy women who is considered ‘’a plus’’ size in the fashion world which is ridiculous in my view! Theres nothing wrong with a lil’ junk in the trunk or something to hold on to we only have women like Shakira, Beyonce and Jenifer Lopez to brake the mold for women with a lil more to love.
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  May 4, 2011, 01.14 AMby sewingqueen-1

  This is a fabulous discussion! Thank you to everyone who contributed.

  I usually can be found sewing costumes for theatre – not many of my clients are industry size – they are smaller, larger, pear-shaped, flat-bosomed, pregnant, on a diet and losing weight or on-a-diet and gaining weight. tall or petite. In other words, no one is a standard size. I spend most of my time adapting commercial patterns or draping directly on the client. I would dearly love to see slopers in various sizes with clear directions on how to adapt them.

  For myself – I can fit on others, but I cannot fit myself! I’m a pear shaped gal who need to do a FBA for almost anything! It’s frustrating that a B cup is considered the normal size, but most of the women I know are a C cup or more. Please have more information on how to make these kinds of adjustments.
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  May 4, 2011, 10.29 PMby rainyh

  I couldn’t agree more…. love to see the variety of bodies clothed in beautiful hand-made garmets, and learn tips for sewing to fit one garmet to all different body types.
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  May 8, 2011, 01.32 AMby laha5822

  I agree that nobody should be insulted for having a non-plus-sized, hourglass shape! I work hard to keep myself fit and I also require modifications to commercial patterns to make them fit. I have found the book How To Make Sewing Patterns by Donald McCunn to be very helpful in learning how to alter and draft patterns. Also, some companies, such as Vogue patterns, use a symbol to recommend which body types look the best in which patterns. I have struggled with fit my whole life and believe it is something all women have in common. I started a Look Book years ago to help be build my personal style and determine what styles are most appropriate for my shape. This has been such a valuable tool! I would recommend it to everyone!

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    May 18, 2011, 11.48 AMby rogue-cellist

    I’m looking for good textbooks on the subject. Where did you get the book from and how much was it?

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  May 19, 2011, 12.55 AMby laha5822

  I’m in the States so I get all my books from Amazon.com.
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  May 20, 2011, 08.22 AMby GraceW

  I have always had difficulty adapting patterns, so if I come across a multisize pattern that I like I grab it. I’m a plus size and have returned to sewing my own clothes again after a gap just so I can wear clothing that reflects who I am. No more frustration at not being able to find something different in a retail clothing store.
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  May 26, 2011, 07.45 PMby mescott59btinternetcom

  Need Help How do you make a sloper pattern ? thank you

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    May 30, 2011, 11.47 AMby ichigogirl

    Try this: http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-bodice-block

    Or you can buy a basic pattern from the big commercial pattern companies and adjust it to fit you better.

    I need to update mine to fit me… aaah. I’d rather just use it, but the time has come…

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  May 30, 2011, 05.49 AMby jebeitz

  I’m 64 let’s not forget that women my age still love fashion and sewing. Not all 20 or 30 something models regardless of size.
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  Jun 1, 2011, 12.26 PMby mbrizz

  Great ideas! It would help a lot to have more resources about what is best for our figures and how to increase a pattern size. I often like the size 44 pants patterns but I need a 46/48. Thanks for all the great resources you do give us.

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    Jun 14, 2011, 09.38 AMby sew4my3

    Burdastyle is working to provide more sizes to their patterns.

    Happy sewing from your friendly Burdastyle Moderator!