Burda Style For people who sew

So I wanted to start work on a winter coat, because mine braved its last winter (and if i like the pattern i’ll downsize it to fit my sisters so i want to start soon). But I wasn’t sure what would be good fabric. The fabric stores around here only have 36in wool, and thats not really gonna work (i dont think). Any one have any suggestions?

Jul 21, 2009, 06.25 PM by ohjoy

• ShareThis

26 Posts

• 

  Aug 7, 2009, 07.46 PMby wzrdreams

  Agh. I can’t read half of your OP because the avatar is covering it, but I think I get the jist. I want to make a coat this fall too. I have a few patterns that I’m thinking about and I recently purchased 3.5 yards ofsome gorgeous navy wool/cashmere. The least amount of yardage that my patterns call for is 2.5 yards. I think BS Larisa – motercycle jacket uses 2.5yrds for comparison. All my patterns suggest using fabric that is wide goods (usually 60"). So, that’s where I’m at yardage/pattern wise.
• 

  Aug 8, 2009, 07.52 PMby nehmah

  Most good woolens are between 58-60 inches (147.32-152.4 cm) a yard. I prefer 100% wool but there are some really nice cashmere blends. Since you used the term “coat” not “jacket” the following is for a coat, particularly a calf- or near-ankle length coat. A. If you purchase a pattern or plaid, check to see if it requires a one-way layout. B. If you are taller add 2(two) inches for every inch you are over 5ft 6in. This is important if you are making a coat with a wide hemline. You can use 36-inch if the coat is paneled, example, a princess seamed coat. I hope this will help. Cordially, Nehmah

  2 Replies

  • 

    Aug 8, 2009, 10.26 PMby wzrdreams

    That’s great advice Nehmah. I would like to add that it’s important to look at the weight and drape of the particular fabric and to be aware of how the pattern is lined. One of my patterns is for a shawl collared woolen jacket. It’s also self lined so I’m on the lookout for a very soft lightweight wool fabric.

  • 

    Aug 10, 2009, 04.27 AMby ohjoy

    yah i’m making like a thigh length cat. i was planning on using the talea pattern on this site

• 

  Aug 9, 2009, 12.55 AMby nehmah

  I shall pray you find a lovely cashmere woolen (top-of-the-line) for your jacket. The first coat I bought, after I started working, was a calf-length cashmere wrap with a shawl collar. I wore it to death. Please post a picture of the finished project. Cordially, Nehmah
• 

  Aug 9, 2009, 05.32 PMby wzrdreams

  @ Nehmah: I ended up buying the lovely navy cash/wool blend… at $18/yard I couldn’t pass it up. Unfortunately, I think it’s really too heavy for the shawl collar pattern I had in mind, so now I’m thinking about either the Peacoat or the long coat in the 8/2009 issue of Burda magazine. I’m leaning towards the long one.

  http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Preview_Burda_Style_08_2009/116A_Coat/1270777-1640676-1724618-1724622-1724833.html

  @ Ohjoy: What patterns are you looking at?

  1 Reply

  • 

    Aug 10, 2009, 05.20 PMby ohjoy

    I was planning on doing the double breasted variation on this one.

    http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/talea

• 

  Aug 10, 2009, 02.10 PMby nehmah

  Oh my word, what a wonderful find. Of course, no one who sews would pass up a bargain like that. Please post a photo when you are done. Cordially, Nehmah
• 

  Aug 24, 2009, 07.25 PMby wzrdreams

  OK, so I’ve decided to start my coat making jaunt with the Hiraku (I’ve seen some Balmains that are like this, fyi). I purchased, downladed, printed, taped and cut it out on Friday. Over the weekend I checked my stash and I have some wool tweed and some printed poly charm lining so I won’t have to spend much more for thsi (just shoulder pads, the zipper and some buttons). Today (Monday) I got some muslin for a test fit (I’m going to try the sz 44). The only things stopping me is that I need to finish my Jennifer shirt before I cut another inch of fabric. (I love cutting patterns and fabric)
• 

  Aug 24, 2009, 11.08 PMby elainemay

  Yay for Hikaru! I made one recently and I can’t get enough of it. Wearing it right now in fact, in my chilly office :) I put a review on PR that might be useful to you:

  http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=42554

  Can’t wait to see yours— I bet it will be amazing.

  1 Reply

  • 

    Aug 25, 2009, 01.41 PMby wzrdreams

    Ah, thank you for that link! Your Hikaru is one of the ones that convinced me to try it. I’m worried about the fit, but that’s what making a muslin is for, and knowing about your experience with the sleeve cap is a big incentive to take my time and get it right.

    I worked on my jennifer shirt last night a lot… I only have to sew on a few remaining buttons and hem the bottom, then I can cut the Hikaru muslin. :)

• 

  Aug 26, 2009, 02.04 PMby katexxxxxx

  May I suggest a good wool or wool blend Barathea or Melton cloth? Hainsworths in Yorkshire do some fantastic things. I just got their latest sample pack through and I’m in love all over again! Mostly military colours, but as they make cloths for dress uniforms, some of those colours are quite spectacular. http://www.hainsworth.co.uk/apparel-fabrics/

  I also adore Linton Tweeds – Chanel used their stuff, and it is so very pretty… http://www.lintondirect.com/index.cfm

  And then there is Harris Tweed – narrow and fierce, but lasts forever! http://www.harristweed.com/

  For something more in the budget line, you could try Sid Trim in Leeds: they often have excellent fabric and fantastic bargains in suiting and coating fabrics. Ring them: 0113 245 4673

  In the USA Pendletons comes with good vibes from many friends: http://www.pendleton-usa.com/
• 

  Aug 26, 2009, 05.51 PMby wzrdreams

  So, I finished up the Jennifer shirt and then cut the Hikaru muslin. I was able to sew up most of the body last night. Tonight I’ll do set the sleeves to check that armscye fit. I can already tell that the 44 will be too big in the back at least. I think I’ll probably recut the pattern in a 42, but blend to 44 at the bottom (low hip) and at the front bust. Sigh. The worst thing about a sewing muslin is finding out how badly you needed to do it!
• 

  Sep 3, 2009, 09.21 AMby flowergirl22

  hi,

  I am always locking to create new things,, and the other day I found a pattern,, and fabric,, medium weight furnishing fabric,,, why you might add,, well its available in all the colours of the rainbow,, You might actually find a design you like,, and it comes in 4 different grades,,, i am making a design with a medium thickness, with a flower pattern, where I am able to add beads, sequence, and coloured stitching,,
• 

  Sep 3, 2009, 11.58 PMby wzrdreams

  I’m cutting my second muslin/toile tonight…. if all goes well I will cut the fashion fabric tomorrow.
• 

  Sep 6, 2009, 11.01 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  Hi wzrdreams, I am almost finished my Hikaru too, I can’t wait to see yours. Mine is out of 100% italian wool that cost me quite a lot but was definitley worth it. I cut a 42 (I’m usually a 42 anyway) and added 4 cm in length because I have a long torso and hate short jackets. This is my first jacket and it has gone very well, I am just trying to find the perfect zip to complete it. My next project will be the Stella jacket, I bought a beautiful fine lined corduroy for it.

  1 Reply

  • 

    Sep 6, 2009, 05.16 PMby wzrdreams

    Cool! I’m working on mine right now! I got buttons yesterday and I already posted a pic of them on my studio. I really love this project so far. I’m also usually a 42, but I decided to cut a 44 because the 42 was very fitted and I want to wear this jacket over a few layers. I work for women’s suit company and the production manager told me that if I add shoulder pads (which I was planning to do anyway) it would lift the armholes a bit and smooth out the back. I think I’m going to carve out the side seam a bit to give the waist a tiny bit more shape. Luckily, the 44 length is perfect. I got a polished gunmetal separating zipper with black zipper tape. It was 24" long, but I got one of the sewers at work to show me how to shorten it.

• 

  Sep 6, 2009, 09.19 PMby wzrdreams

  uhm… my 100% wool tweed is kinda scratchy. I’m thinking about substituting some lining fabric for the collar facing. Any thoughts?
• 

  Sep 7, 2009, 02.18 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  I don’t think that would be a problem, I’d do it, it would be awful if it made you itchy. Easier to do it now than later… :) I’m not using shoulder pads, my shoulder’s don’t need any help, haha ;) but I shaped the waist a bit too, it looks much better, I just basted the shoulders and side seams, then shaped it on me before I top-stitched, it didn’t need much but I’m glad I did it. I’m so excited about finishing this jacket!!! I just have to find the right zipper, I’ve only seen nasty plastic ones and that would be a crime to use on such beautiful wool. Might have to order one online…
• 

  Sep 10, 2009, 07.18 PMby ohjoy

  so i’m working on a little bit of a budget and am wondering if i can use felt for my coat… will it still look good?

  3 Replies

  • 

    Sep 11, 2009, 11.48 AMby wzrdreams

    Sure, I don’t see why not. I would probably use fusible interfacing on the wrong side though to prevent distortion of the felt. How much yardage do you need for Talea?

  • 

    Sep 11, 2009, 11.32 PMby ohjoy

    I accidently marked you (wzrdreams) as inapporpriate earlier, Imeant to reply but then my comp froze! Any ways It calls for 3 1/2 but its a long coat and im’ only 5’1 so ill probably shorten and might not need that much. Actually Right now hancock fabrics is having this huge sale and i found some nice suiting material for 4 dollars that i think i’ll use!

  • 

    Sep 12, 2009, 04.36 AMby kaitui-kiwi

    Hi Ohjoy, check out this link: http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/115_Jacket/1270777-1463237-1654561-1654565-1654691.html
    It’s not felt but it looks alot like it, I think your idea would look great :) Go for a bold colour like this one for some fun! I can’t wait to see xx

• 

  Sep 11, 2009, 04.44 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  I’ve seen a wonderful coat done in purple felt, it was in a Burda Magazine, I will look through my stash tonight and let you know the magazine number and pattern. I remember thinking it was very nice looking and the edges were left unfinished which looked good for felt. It’s on my list, but a bit further down than Hikaru and Stella :)
• 

  Sep 11, 2009, 11.50 AMby wzrdreams

  Well, I did use lining for the collar stand facing and I’m glad I did. The stand is less bulky than my toile was also.

  Currently, I am waiting for my new serger which (crosses fingers) might arrive today. Then I can use it to serge the lining edges for durability. I really do hope it arrives because I could finish this jacket this weekend if it does!

  1 Reply

  • 

    Sep 14, 2009, 02.38 PMby wzrdreams

    Just and upate on my Hikaru – I’ve sewn and serged my lining, and my shell is almost complete; sleeves are in and the collar is stitched through-and-through at the neckline. I want to serge the armholes before I sewn on the sleeve heads and shoulder pads. Then I’ll bag the lining. Trying it on I can tell that even though it’s a bit big, it will fit well over a few layers or a sweater. I’m very pleased with this project so far. :)

    Ohjoy – did you get your fabric? $4 a yard cannot be beat!

    kaitui kiwi – how is your Hikaru going? Did you find your zipper?

• 

  Sep 15, 2009, 08.51 PMby ohjoy

  I did! I’m excited! But I’ve decided to start my 2 sisters and my daughter’s Halloween costumes first, since I’ll be drafting those. (Leave it to them to pick costumes that don’t have a ready made pattern!) My moms neighbor is also asking for a costume, for some party, so I figure I’ll start on those first! Winter here only lasts like a week and not till mid December!
• 

  Sep 16, 2009, 05.50 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  I did get my zipper, it was too long but I fixed that up last night. My “shell” is finished, including sleeves and my lining is also done but still separate. Last night I sewed on the front facing and pinned in the zipper. I’m really happy with the fit and I can’t wait to finish it, it’s gone so smoothly. I might get another hour at my machine tonight but I don’t want to rush the zip and I still have to do all my fabric covered buttons (24 of them!) so I might get to post photos this weekend. I can’t wait to see yours! :)

  2 Replies

  • 

    Sep 16, 2009, 02.04 PMby wzrdreams

    yay! We are keeping pace pretty well.

    I hand stitched in my sleave heads 2 nights ago, and last night I hand stitched in the shoulder pads (I found very thin black ones) and then I sttiched the lining in at the facing seams. Tonight I will sew the lining and body hem and hopefully the sleeve lining seam as well. I left a side seam open in the lining for turning. This is only the second lining I’ve ever bagged, and I’m a bit anxious about the corners of the hem, but I’m sure I’ll be able to figure it out.

    Anyway, I once the lining was “in” last night I tried on (again) and I love the way it feels now that it’s not an itchy shell. If all goes well I should be done sometime this week and I’ll try to get pictures this weekend. :)

  • 

    Sep 16, 2009, 02.04 PMby wzrdreams

    yay! We are keeping pace pretty well.

    I hand stitched in my sleave heads 2 nights ago, and last night I hand stitched in the shoulder pads (I found very thin black ones) and then I sttiched the lining in at the facing seams. Tonight I will sew the lining and body hem and hopefully the sleeve lining seam as well. I left a side seam open in the lining for turning. This is only the second lining I’ve ever bagged, and I’m a bit anxious about the corners of the hem, but I’m sure I’ll be able to figure it out.

    Anyway, I once the lining was “in” last night I tried on (again) and I love the way it feels now that it’s not an itchy shell. If all goes well I should be done sometime this week and I’ll try to get pictures this weekend. :)

• 

  Sep 16, 2009, 05.51 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  PS: How wonderful is it to use a serger? I love mine, only had it about 2 months but I’ve never looked back. It adds the next level of quality to my clothes. So happy :)

  1 Reply

  • 

    Sep 16, 2009, 02.05 PMby wzrdreams

    So far, I LOVE LOVE LOVE it! I even ripped out some zig-zag finished seams on a dress I’ve been ignoring just to serger the edges. I really think the serger will boost my productivity.

• 

  Sep 18, 2009, 02.25 PMby wzrdreams

  I reallized last night that I have to slip stitch the lining to the body at the cuffs becuase there isn’t enough seam allowance at the cuffs now that the SA has been top stitched up. Only one side is completed, but the rest of the lining is done (those inside bottom corners gave me some grief). Then all I have left is to sew on my buttons.
• 

  Sep 19, 2009, 04.48 PMby wzrdreams

  I’m done!! Well, I have to slip stitch the lining closed, but that didn’t stop me from wearing it last night! I onlt had 10 buttons to sew on so that was quick enough. I’ll try to get pictures soon.
• 

  Sep 20, 2009, 12.40 PMby kaitui-kiwi

  That’s great, well done! :) I only have to hand stitch the other sleeve to the lining and that’s it, but I took it to my friends house to show off when we sewed together on Saturday and when I left I forgot it! :\ oh well, she’s dropping it off tomorrow so hopefully I will get pics up soon. I am so proud of it because it is the most well made thing I’ve done so far & I can already tell I will wear it almost everyday. I can’t wait to wear it to work. I’ll look out for your pics :)

  1 Reply

  • 

    Sep 26, 2009, 12.59 AMby wzrdreams

    http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/sgt-hikaru

• 

  Sep 26, 2009, 08.33 AMby kaitui-kiwi

  Your jacket is amazing, I love it, here’s mine :) http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/itaria-jin-hikaru

  Go us! :)
• 

  Sep 29, 2009, 05.31 PMby wzrdreams

  That really was fun. Making a coat for a fraction of what it would cost RTW is so motivating. I’ve decided to make one or two more jackets/coats this fall winter. I just bought some lovely dark green wool ($38) for Vogue pattern V2984 and I may also make a motorcycle jacket (Larissa or Vogue 2973) out of my yummy navy cash/wool blend.

  2 Replies

  • 

    Oct 6, 2009, 07.22 AMby kaitui-kiwi

    I agree, this jacket was probably the most expensive (materials-wise) piece I have ever made but it still came out at a fraction of the cost of what I would get in the shops and it fits me perfectly! I am almost finished the Stella Jacket and I’ve also got my eye on the Steffi Jacket or similar but that might have to wait until next winter, it’s getting too warm to think of Jackets now :)

  • 

    Oct 6, 2009, 09.13 AMby anajan

    Girls, I am glad you’re motivated to sew more jackets. I am sure they’re going to be just better and better, and you’ll feel even more motivated to sew :). At least, that was my experience.

    I started sewing really expensive pieces of clothes. Sometimes it turns out the RTW clothes is cheaper than my takes on it. Mostly because I buy better quality fabrics, that can be really expensive sometimes. Sometimes I face the problem – when the project turns out to be a wadder, and I invested a lot of money and time into the garment.

    It happened to me last winter with a jumper dress I worked on. I used a beautiful red tartan wool, which cost me more than a RTW dress I tried to knock off.
    Usually I throw to trash wadder projects without thinking, but this dress sits in my closet as I hope I’ll manage somehow to rescue it :).

    Maybe it’s time to call the BS community to help me!

• 

  Oct 6, 2009, 08.39 PMby wzrdreams

  I understand your concern about wadders! A project failure is just as demorallizing as a success is motivating. There was a time when I couldn’t seem to get anything right and I stopped sewing for a long time. One of the main problems with making my own clothing is the inability to try different sizes on. That’s why I decided to make a 2nd muslins for my Hikaru…. I needed to feel secure about my fit choice. Making a muslin is crucial when you have expensive fabric and the financial investment is even higher than the time investment. The pay off is worth the time spent cutting and sewing that muslin.

  Sometimes choosing a pattern size to make is like russian roullete…. it’s my least favorite part of the entire process. I really wish commerical pattern companies had more information about the finished measurements (specs) of the garments. Center back length, Cross back, waist circumference, bust circ., chest circ., sleeve length, bottom hem, etc…. Just a few of these measurements would help determine the amount of design ease in a given pattern, which would in turn make choosing a size a more informed decision.

  1 Reply

  • 

    Oct 7, 2009, 01.39 PMby kaitui-kiwi

    I agree with both of you, I am always nervous cutting fabric even if I’ve checked and re-checked measurements :) theres still a seed of doubt that I might have stuffed up somewhere but the successful projects make the nervousness worth it. Wouldn’t it be great if all the pattern companies could align their sizing, I use mostly Burda patterns and I get really scared when I start another companies pattern! I guess I’ll have to try more drafting…it’s on my list :)
    I think even if my jacket (or what-ever project) had cost more than the RTW I think it pays off when you get compliments on how well it fits, I think that a well made piece that has that custom fit always looks better than the RTW version :) It makes me feel great no matter the cost of the item, it makes me treasure it.