Blue Velvet

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Description

While shopping for fabric to make my Leopard Trench, a company sent me an incredibly silky and luxurious sample of faux chinchilla. Even though it wasn't what I was looking for at all, it was so soft that I couldn't stop playing with it. I put it around my wrist and pictured it as the cuff of a rich blue coat. After that, I had to have the coat I saw in my imagination.

I chose navy blue cotton velvet (the color is more like the color in the close-up pic than the one of me wearing the coat), which has a refined, vintage-y feel and a subtler glow than polyester velvet. I modified the Schnittvision pattern I used for the Leopard Trench by lengthening the skirt about 12 cm, and adding an extra front seam to make on-seam pockets instead of welt pockets. I also modified the sleeve and lapel pattern to accommodate the faux fur pieces. I omitted the buttons to make a wrap style and added a long sash. To make the coat warmer I used a quilted lining with a backing of batting. This proved to be too thick for the sleeves and restricted movement, so I lined the sleeves with satin instead.

New skills learned: making seams on fake fur, working with velvet

Tips for others: Velvet cuts quite nicely, but once under the presser foot the fabric becomes uncooperative and develops a mind of its own! Save yourself headache and frustration by basting every seam finely before machine stitching-- it's worth the time and effort. Even using LOTS of pins didn't stop the pieces from slipping apart from each other under the presser foot. Good basting and steam ironing will make a big difference with this fabric. Also, cotton velvet creates more lint and dust than you would believe- even after you vacuum, more will settle out of the air in the following days. If you don't want to be coughing up lint (and blowing it out of your nose-- ewww) for the next week, cut and sew wearing a surgical mask!

Materials

navy blue cotton velvet, fake chinchilla fur, embroidered quilted brown taffeta lining for body, navy blue satin lining for sleeves

COMMENTS (10)

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MarmotaB Ï Posted 24 August 2007 at 7:50 AM
working on a secret crochet project

Wow! Your coats are always so beautiful and so perfectly suited for you! I love the whole thing, but especially (that doesn't mean I love it more than the rest, that just means I want to point it out) the LINING! And I'm so glad that you always post those tips under your creations!
elainemay Ï Posted 24 August 2007 at 8:28 AM

Thanks, Marmotab! The lining is a wonderful pre-quilted fabric that the shopkeeper recommended when I asked what I could use to make the coat warmer - I suspect it's not hard to find something similar. I highly recommend it- not only is it warm and pretty, but it's a dream to work with. It keeps its shape and stays put while you cut and sew, and it doesn't fray at all- no need to finish the edges! It's a little difficult to iron the seams flat, but still well worth it. You could probably even use it for the outside of a jacket, though that would be a bit flashy for my taste :)
lauriana Ï Posted 24 August 2007 at 8:32 AM
reconsidering summer sewing plans

Another great coat! Wow! It looks wonderful and I think it's very well done with all those tricky materials. Do you have any tips for working with fake fur? (I have to samples in my stash, but I'm afraid I'd ruin them)
MarmotaB Ï Posted 24 August 2007 at 9:11 AM
working on a secret crochet project

It would be too flashy for my taste as well. :-) But I should keep the fabric in mind, it's a good tip for future...
elainemay Ï Posted 24 August 2007 at 9:40 AM

Thanks, Lauriana! I should probably make a how-to soon. Until then, a couple of tips: Before you cut, make sure the pile is running in the direction you want it to run on your garment. Working from the back of the fabric, use a craft knife to cut only through the backing and use your hands to pull the pieces apart to avoid cutting the pile. Leave a narrow seam allowance (about 1 cm) and use scissors to trim the fur short on the seam allowances. Before stitching, comb the fur away from the edge of the fabric to avoid trapping the hairs in the seam. After stitching the seam, use something blunt like a small crochet hook to (gently!) pull out any hairs that got trapped. And with fake fur as with velvet, if there's one thing I learned it's that you should wear a mask :) Even though there wasn't that much fur involved in this coat, after I cut and trimmed the collar pieces and cuffs, my throat felt like there was a small teddy bear stuck in it. Good luck with it, and be sure to show us the results!
majnets3s Ï Posted 24 August 2007 at 3:19 PM
Pregnant and veery happy

I really enjoy your coats!Great job again!
Iezje Ï Posted 26 August 2007 at 2:04 PM
Donna Ï Posted 28 August 2007 at 12:44 AM

What a georgeous coat. Colour, style, everything, I'm in awe...
Lilo Ï Posted 28 August 2007 at 2:38 AM

Another lovely coat, good job! I like especially the color combination(I wouldn't have dared to go for it myself but now as I see it I turned into a fan).
bellamabella Ï Posted 30 August 2007 at 4:10 PM

speechless. ITS so beautiful. i would totally rock this . ( the color just pops out at you...great!!)