Sneak Peek: Discussions

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Coming closer to our launch some info about the discussion section:

The Discussions section replaces the forums our current site. In the forums you were able to find answers, post questions and share your knowledge of sewing. All that will be able to happen in the discussion section as well PLUS some exciting new features that we are thrilled to share with you.

The new Discussion section houses the former help section as well. Offering the help in this format will allow you to comment on our help and ask additional questions as well as help each other out. The help topics will be clearly indicated as BurdaStyle content and will always remain at the same place in the list.

The design and outline of the Discussions section is more organized and streamlined. You will find it much easier to find exactly what you are looking for.

Once you have asked a question, people’s replies will start to come in, the freshest posts bringing the most active topics to the top of the list. You will be able to reply directly to a discussion topic or post, and replies will be visually indicated through indentation.

We are happy to announce that the long awaited “Report as Inappropriate” button will be under each new topic and individual comment. This helps us keep the quality of the forum up by eliminating spammers thereby making it a better place for all you BurdaStylers out there.

With this optimized design, conversations will flow, answers will be found quickly and questions will be answered. We are excited to see you take part in these discussions and watch you all grow as sewers because of it!

Spotlight On: Alabama Chanin Part 2

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Below is Part 2 of my interview with Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin, a coveted lifestyle brand which focuses on slow design and sustainability. To read the first part of this interview click here

Today you are not only creating beautiful things but helping others through your Artists Outreach program, Architecture for Humanity and The Kitchen Sisters. I know you’ve studied Environmental Design and film, but how does one relay a political message, while being taken seriously, through fashion?

I am not sure that we truly relay a political message (or can), I just know that it is very, very important to do what you love in a way that protects people and planet. I choose to work by example and then hope that my experience can spread and give others hope that they can do what they love. I have often been asked if I am political in one way or another… As we all know, this is a time of great change and I believe in taking small, baby steps towards initiating that change. Is that grassroots politics? Maybe.

Lastly, how hands-on are you in the production process today, I realize you have a talented team of artisans hand-sewing items for Alabama Chanin, do you create all of these concepts alone or do you have a partner?

We have the most amazing team of employees and artisans who are truly the heart and soul of this company. Without these friends and colleagues, none of the work I do would exist. And while I am the designer/owner and do not technically have a partner; our team is the best example of partnership I have ever experienced.

Click here to see the Behind-The-Scenes Slideshow, trust me, it is not worth missing!

You can view Natalie’s book Alabama Stitch Book in our A-Store.

Sew Dad A Tie for Father's Day

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We may have just wrapped up our bow tie sew along, but it’s not too early to start thinking of the next big tie event (at least for those of us in the United States) – Father’s Day! This year, show dad how much you love him by stitching up a necktie! The easiest way is using the Osman Tie pattern and following BurdaStyle’s How To. But, if you are looking to make it from scratch, try The Purl Bee or Ask Andy About Clothes versions or check out this series of videos from expert village.

Prom Mini Blog: All in the Family

…and your little dog, too

They say it takes a village to raise a child. Well, my village – my tribe – gather together to shoot television shows – not quite the same as sitting around a campfire, sharing stories of the great hunt, but close.

My mom, dad, sister, two uncles and one aunt were on set with me to shoot the “Every Body Bodice” episode of Jane’s Sew & So…and my little dog, too. That’s our production mascot Jezebel in the center of the picture.

My mom created the show when cousin Chaz wanted a new skirt for a party, but was flat broke because she was a recent college grad (Yikes! That’ll be me in 4 years). Mom taught Chaz how to make a funky jean skirt out of an old pair of jeans, asked my dad to pick up a camera and – voila! – Jane’s Sew & So was born. My mom was able to set her mind on a goal and achieve it with such finesse. I know I can “manifest” everything I want out of life, whether it’s designing and sewing my own prom dress or winning an Academy Award for directing.

I was nervous about committing to each design element in my dress (so many choices!), but I just had to step back, take in the whole garment and go for it. I took pattern elements from a vintage pattern, a new pattern and even drew some elements freehand until I had one complete “Frankensteined” pattern. I used to think you had to just make the dress that came in a pattern pouch, but you don’t, you can tailor anything to fit your style and body type. It took us 10 hours to shoot the show! And, while we were exhausted by the time we got to the “martini shot,” we still had smiles on our faces.

Now that I know how to make the “Every Body Bodice,” I can use the pattern again to design the next major dresses in my life – bridesmaid – WEDDING!

I want my husband to dress like Freddy from “My Fair Lady,” by the way! What about you BurdaStylers out there? Thought about your wedding dress?!

Melbourne CBD BurdaStyle Club

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Last night Tessuti Fabrics hosted the very first Melbourne CBD BurdaStyle Club meet! Ten lovely ladies attended and the night started off quietly as everyone felt a little nervous but once we had introduced ourselves and i asked everyone to do a little show and tell of their most recent, current and future creations the chatter was soon flowing. There were some wonderful creations that included vintage dresses, teddy bear shirts, childrens clothes and handbags.

We did not sew at our first meet, instead we took the opportunity of having Colette and her Mum Silva there and picked their brains. Between them both they knew all the answers to all the questions asked and there were many! We also had the chance to flick through the new arrival of Japanese sewing books and shop at our leisure with a bonus discount. There were nibbles including delicious biscuits from Brunetti and plenty of tea.

Being the first meet we were unsure of what to expect and discussed what we would like from future meets. We talked about tutorials we could do such as how to sew slippery fabrics and sew in zips and more advanced classes that could be organised. We will hopefully have sewing machines set up soon to save people having to bring theirs in with them. We also decided that meeting once a month would give us plenty of time inbetween to create something new for the next show and tell.

Have there been any other BurdaStyle Club meets yet? I’d love to hear how they went and what you have planned for future meets. Maybe you’d even like to show your photos in the BurdaStyle Flickr group?

If you’re in Melbourne and would like to attend a future meet please email me at nikkishell@burdastyle.com. Also, there is a possibility i will be hosting a meet at one of the Sydney Tessuti stores in August so if you are interested in attending that please email me.

Nichola.x

Material: Crocodile Tears

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Come with me, from the Far East Cashmere and China to Africa, on one last exploration of exotic fabrics, their history and meaning beyond being luxury (or everyday) products: crocodile leather.

People have been wearing animal skins for thousands of years, but unlike today when croc leather and similar items are bought with a whole lot of money to show off wealth, in ancient times it was not just a matter of status but the skins were worn in full awareness of the worth of the animal, the animal as a whole, not just the skin! In ancient Egypt, for example, where crocodiles were thought to be divine, priests wore crocodile skins to connect with the spirit of these sacred creatures. Elsewhere in Africa, warriors wore crocodile armour in the belief that in some magical way the skin would bestow the power and fearlessness of the animal to them.

Croc skin fascinates until today. It is indeed mysteriously beautiful and beautifully mysterious. But honestly not much is left of this mystery once you have visited a croc farm as I did some years back. At first, I was fascinated by the huge female crocs lying in the sun, laying eggs, which then were collected and matured in a special warming room until the little crocs hedge. But my fascination waned quickly when we stepped into the next room and saw literally hundreds of arm-length crocodiles piling over each other in a putrid water puddle of 4 square metres, waiting to be turned into precious leather bags, belts, wallets and watches. Someone might argue that croc mass farming prevents the extinction of wild crocodiles. I really wonder as at least in those parts of Africa where I have been, people kill wild crocs not because of their skins but because they are dangerous to humans and livestock (the skins of big wild crocs are far too rough and damaged to be used for luxury products).

Seeing these wild animals being exploited like this really made me realize how humans’ thirst for luxury and well-being degrades (in every sense of the word) the natural world around us. In this sense, using mustard wool for the larissa jacket does not only give this classic motorcycle jacket a new twist but might make it a bit more animal friendly.

Photo by Charles Cantin

Spotlight On: Alabama Chanin

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Natalie Chanin is a mother, designer, writer, manufacturer; a soulful woman to whom quality of life comes first, as in living, loving, laughing. It comes as no surprise that Natalie has created a coveted lifestyle brand Alabama Chanin, which focuses on slow design and sustainability. Chanin created her first American couture label Project Alabama in 2000, which to much dismay shuttered it’s doors in ’06. Project Alabama came from a cut up t-shirt Natalie manipulated and hand-sewed herself. “That hand-sewn shirt hatched a company, a concept, a clothing line and ultimately brought me back to my family, childhood home and community.”

Natalie was kind enough to answer some of my questions, this is Part 1 of our conversation:

You have been creating garments in the Upcycling vein ever since your first line, “Project Alabama” came to light. These garments, which are literally “passed from hand to hand, and generation to generation” represent something very unique. How did it all begin?

The old story of me cutting apart a t-shirt and sewing it back together again for a party is really the basis of the company I own and run today. I sewed that t-shirt because I wanted something special to wear. What I found out was that it had been a very long time since I had made something with my own two hands. That process of making rather than buying excited me. I got up the next morning and started making another shirt, then the next day another, and the next day another. Those upcycled shirts became a t-shirt line, then a collection and today what I would consider to be a lifestyle.

I remember when “Project Alabama” was nominated for the Council of Fashion Designers in America/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2005 while shortly after the couture line closed its doors. What happened?

Yes, that was a year of highs and lows. We were nominated for the Cooper Hewitt National Design Award and were finalists for the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund. Then in September of 2005, had our first fashion show and wound up on the cover of Women’s Wear Daily. One year later, almost to the day, we closed Project Alabama.

As happens, things change, people, companies and concepts grow and take on their own lives. The Project Alabama that I started closed in September of 2006 and the company that I loved grew into what is now Alabama Chanin.

Project Alabama still exists; however, it is no longer produced here in Alabama, as was my original intention (I understand that the total production is now housed in India); the offices are no longer housed in Alabama, as my original vision of community dictated and the line is not designed by me, as many people still believe.

At the time Project Alabama closed, it felt to me like the end of the world; however, sitting here today, it feels that the world is just beginning.

Click here to see the behind-the-scenes slideshow, trust me, it is not worth missing!

You can view Natalie’s book Alabama Stitch Book in our A-Store.

Read on with part 2 of the series.

Featured Member: Jem1022

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1. Where are you from and/or where do you live?

I live in New Jersey, in a little town or actually a borough called Riverdale. It’s cute but very quiet.

2. What was the 1st thing you made? How did you start sewing?

The very first thing I made was a sweater that was this gray cashmere with black buttons , which took some time to get the sewing done just right, since it was my first project. After I had finished it , I wore it to work the next day and everyone loved it, but when I got home I accidentally put in the dryer after the washing machine and it shrunk . A couple of years ago, I started sewing certain things that I wore that were either getting torn or worn out from use and started to fix them by hand until later my sewing developed to a point where I can make my own clothes. My aunt had such a profound influence on me because she knew how to sew and would fix and sometimes make clothes for me.

3. What role does sewing play in your life?

At this point in my life, sewing is a necessity because I rarely go out to buy clothes because its too expensive especially now and would rather make it with fabric I can buy to make shirts and pants that’s less than the retail price in certain stores. Since I have a sewing machine, it is probably the best investment I have ever made.

4. What is your favorite and what is your least favorite thing about sewing?

My favorite thing about sewing is the process of making the pattern and actually sewing the pieces together. Its like solving a puzzle with great results at the end once it fits perfectly. The least favorite thing about sewing is that I sometimes brake the needle which is a pain to replace, especially if it’s late at night and you want to wear that garment the next day.

5. If you could make something for anyone who would it be and what would you make?

I would love to make an outfit for my aunt because she was the one who got me into sewing and right now she is in Iraq for her second tour. I would love to make a cute dress for her so she can wear it to work or to parties because she deserves it and she would be thrilled to receive a gift from her nephew.

6. What are you looking for on our site? What do you think should be improved and what do you really like?

When I first looked at this site several months ago, I really liked how everyone posted everything they created for others to see and it was very unique for a site to show handmade clothes or how to’s. This is what intrigued me into looking for other people who can be creative and make a plethora of garments just like me. I love the how to’s and wish it came with like a video or like a youtube- like instruction guide to make certain clothes. Other than that, I think the site is one of a kind because there really is no other site like this.

7. What is your motto?

My motto is to live your life to the fullest because you have only shot at this and you can’t exchange for another one.

Jem1022‘s wonderful creations are so imaginative and unique that it’s nearly impossible not to feature them. As you can see, he has an amazing eye for design and style that just draws the viewer in. Check out his favorite top ten creations on BurdaStyle and keep up the great work!

Always a Bridesmaid

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This past weekend my dear friend Stacey, whom I’ve known since we were 6 years old, was married. A few months ago I got the inevitable phone call, well after the save-the-dates and invitations went out, Stacey asked me to be one of her bridesmaids. Sigh of relief. I said, “I was wondering when you’d get around to asking, we’ve been planning this your whole life”! This was the third time I was to be a bridesmaid. The first question was “what are we wearing?”. Stacey brought me through J-Crew online’s wedding section and showed me the dress she’d chosen for us, I was thrilled! The tea-length fuchsia chiffon frocks worked on a variety of bodies and we all were convinced we’d wear them again (seeing I have 5 wedding to go to this year)! For a convenient and casually chic look, J-Crew offers their signature classical looks in a variety of colors and styles, many of them not exceeding $200. You get a sense that you are customizing your wedding party and the process becomes quite personal.

For my friend Julia’s September wedding she found our black & white cotton embroidered Flamenco-feeling dresses at Filene’s Basement for a steal.

For my sister’s wedding I was asked and honored to design the dresses; her’s, the bridesmaid’s, my mother’s, and the flower girl’s! This was quite a lofty endeavor but the final composition looked so lovely and flattered the variety of body types. Materials: Celadon cotton jersey, boning, fusible interfacing. Have you made any bridesmaid’s dresses?

Prom Mini Blog: Pimp My Prom Dress

I looked in all the prom mags and found some cute dresses; but, I kept saying to myself, ‘Gee, I wish this bodice were on that skirt,’ or ’Wouldn’t it be great if I could put the straps from that Vivien Leigh gown on this bodice?’ So, the answer, of course, was to do all the custom work myself – that’s right, just like those dudes who trick out ordinary cars, I had to put a basic dress “up on the lift” and pimp it out.

Biggest goal: Look killer in my dress. I’ve been working out with hand weights for months so I can show off my “First Lady arms.” So I know I want a thin shoulder strap. I need a little more, um, shall we say, “filling out” along the bustline, so I know I need a structured element there. I’m pretty tall and thin, so I can afford to have some drama going on in the back of the dress – a keyhole, maybe, or even a fall.

If you watch Project Runway, you know the designers all start by “draping” on a dress form. My mom taught my sister, Chanel, how to make her own (super cheap!) dress form out of duct tape and old pillows. You can watch this episode for free on her website: Jane’s Sew and So: Dress Form.

I sewed a muslin out of a fabric remnant, fit it on my own dress form and started pinning, altering and tailoring the dress until it looked exactly how I wanted it to look. Some of my original ideas went out the window because they just didn’t translate off the page, but as I tweaked and fiddled, the dress came together in my hands to satisfy my designer’s eye.

Don’t think you have to dress like the models in the magazines. Here are few links to help you figure out your own body type:

THIS JUST IN: My mom and dad gave me an early graduation present! A new sewing machine! It’s gorgeous and has embroidery!

Just for fun – check out my “Timeless Prom” radio station on <a href= http://www.pandora.com/?sc=sh135282592226723717&quot; target="_blank">Pandora.com.

-Grace

Online Sewing Inspiration and Publications

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It doesn’t seem like the economic situation around the world has gotten any better – so sometimes it’s difficult to shell out hard-earned money on magazines that might provide fashion inspiration. Compound that with the fact that so many periodicals are ceasing publication and one might wonder where we’ll turn to for the latest fashion trends. Why not start with the internet? Of course, popular style magazines such as Vogue, Elle, and Bazarr continue to move their content to the web. However, there are several free, Indy online magazines that can be a great source of inspiration! Need a couple of sites that can get you started? Try VivaLaModa – a bimonthly magazine that showcases handmade items, product reviews, and green products or N.E.E.T Magazine – a quarterly, online publication that showcases grassroots creativity from around the globe. Have a favorite online magazine source? Be sure to list them here!

Prom Mini Blog : My Total John Hughes Moment

"The Ask

You know those movie moments that make your heart beat really fast? They can be so cheesy, but they get you going immediately – tears in your eyes, goosebumps, goony grins on your face? Well, I’m a sucker for those moments, and I’m not afraid to admit it!

I mean, come on! John Cusack with the boombox over his head, cranking Peter Gabriel? Julia Roberts, a girl, standing in front of a boy, asking him to love her? Nobody puts Baby in a corner!? You had me at ‘hello?!’ Stellaaaaaa!!!!

I was sitting in homeroom listening to morning announcements. All of a sudden, our School President, Robbie, calls my name over the loudspeaker. “Grace Samson, Grace Samson, please report to the principal’s office…” (Gulp!) “…if you want to go to prom with me.” I thought I was in trouble, but, no – I was smack-dab in the middle of a real John Hughes movie moment. I walked out and saw Robbie saunter toward me. I called him a freak. He smiled. I half-expected someone in the back row to stand up and start clapping, really slowly…

So, now I’m going to prom with the School President. We’re good friends already – we just starred in the school play together and he’s been a guest star on my mom’s TV show, too.<a href= “http://www.janessewandso.com&#8221;&gt; Jane’s Sew and So But this is the stuff of legends, baby!

The pressure is really on to have a killer prom dress. I’ve done all my research and now it’s time to start sketching. I’ve definitely decided on a classy, 30’s silhouette, so now I have to “Frankenstein” a pattern together that suits my designer’s eye and compliments MY body. I’m going to create an “Every Body Bodice” that can be tailored to compliment anybody’s shape – and I’m going to share it here on BurdaStyle! Now I just have to make my design decisions about neckline, straps, the back and skirt style – that’s all (wow!). I have to make red carpet impact when I walk into that ballroom, right? Nobody puts Gracie in a corner!

-Grace

"It's that damn Hansel. He's so hot right now!" -Zoolander

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…and ruffles are so hot right now too. Yes, I am seriously mad about ruffles. You can add them to an existing piece of clothing or to an accessory which you don’t use anymore, or design a new piece inspired by ruffles, like our Kristen dress.
This week we are not only bringing you this darling Curved Ruffle Clutch tutorial, we have also created a Ruffle Overview Extravaganza for those who want to be in the know on how to pucker and purse your way into any fabric.

I would LOVE to see how Burdastylers ruffle their way into these projects. Enjoy.

Happy Birthday Nikkishell!

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She has been with us since the beginning and we just wanted to take this opportunity to wish one of our fabulous bloggers a wonderful Happy Birthday!

Worthy Wool

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If I write about silk silk and cotton I cannot but have to tell you something about Cashmere too! When the icy winter wind whips the farthest corner of the Himalaya’s at temperatures where even looking out the window makes you catch a cold, (-40 degrees Celsius!) this sensationally soft wool will keep you warm, after all, it insulates the Himalayan mountain goat that roam the mountain ranges of China, Mongolia and India at 4,000 meters above the sea. Today we also find them in other places, like Scotland where quite a thriving Cashmere industry has developed since the 19th century.

The hair is six times finer than a human hair, so fine that it has to be woven by hand in a painstakingly laborious process (just think how difficult it is to get a thread into a needle hole). But before we get to the weaving we first have to collect the hair. For that the fine undercoat of the hopefully patient goat is combed out to extract the fine white hair also called pashm from which Cashmere is made. Even if the goat is patient, there isn’t much wool coming out or in other words, there may be plenty of wool but each goat only produces about 150 grams of pashm; no wonder that one single scarf for example requires the wool of three goats!

By the way, traditionally the word “Pashmina” (a Persian word for “finest wool fiber”) referred to pashm (the wool) once spun into yarn, while the word Cashmere was used to describe the traditional shawl. Why Cashmere? Because originally in the 15th century only Kashmiri weavers had the skills to weave the pashm into scarves that the Mughal, the then rulers of India, were so fond of. Since Napoleon’s time (he gave a Cashmere shawl to his wife Josephine and triggered a Cashmere craze in Europe) the definitions have changed, at least in Europe: Pashmina refers to the scarf and Cashmere to the fiber.

While fashion designers discovered the wonderful properties of cashmere in the 1920s, it was only in the 1990s, that the Pashmina, although having been worn by Indian aristocracy and even Napoleon’s wife long time ago, suddenly became a must-have in a woman’s wardrobe after fashion designers featured them on Western catwalks (although now of course not made from pure Cashmere but mixed with silk and other fibres).

Of course BurdaStyle members have already found their very own original uses for Pashminas and Cashmere: check out stepanka’s cashmere bolero and ParaNoire’s Cashmere and Silk Blazer.


Try making these out of cashmere:

Talea

Talea 2

Cape Dracula

Coat Elizabeth

photo from MÂnestrÂle.

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