; Food and fashion may be Italy’s most successful exports, but the two truest Italian passions are soccer and scandal. For futbol the natives are genuinely mad, crazy for the national team that won last year’s World Cup with a head-butt, and crazier yet for their local league teams. Two of the most famous of these are Milan’s long-dueling Inter and A.C. squads, and no trip to the city is really complete until you’ve watched one team or the other play San Siro stadium. Seeing them play each other is a dangerous game, however: Italy has had an uptick of English-style soccer hooliganism, with the rioting at one recent match resulting in the death of a cop trying to break up the crowd. Scandal! And doppe scandal now that the Italian Cabinet has voted to make many teams Milan’s included play behind closed doors until their stadiums are up to security snuff. If the Italians seems a little down this fashion season, now you know why.