Are you a recessionista, an upcycler, a vintage seeker, a recycler or reclaimer of fashion? The current economic atmosphere has led many artists, crafters and designers to cut corners and get creative by using reusing existing resources. This trend has it’s merits of course, but do you think it will last?
The picture above features some silk from the body of gorgeous work by Resurrection Rags and the amazing work of young designer Rachael Cassar.
Everyone seems to be “going green” these days, from Barney’s to bath tissue companies to banks. Some believe it to be a fleeting trend, while others see it as a global, permanent shift in consciousness. “Going green” is an extremely broad topic, so since we, at BurdaStyle, are people who sew, I thought it would be interesting to glimpse at some recycled and reclaimed fashion pieces, as they don’t always look that way…
Maison Martin Margiela, one of my favorite design houses, has been fond of reclamation since the 80s. “We first adopted this approach for our inaugural collection for Spring/Summer 1989 and it has been an integral and important element of each and every one of our collections since.”
Their approach, to me, is certainly more avant-garde and conceptual than the others. “This quest to transform garments is born from a wish to treat the strictures of the structure of a particular garment as a design challenge”. MM
Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garcon, has also been working with reclaimed garments and dry goods for years. In her Fall 2009 collection tailcoats were superimposed on larger greatcoats. Sections of khaki fatigues, and military tents & jackets, were collaged in. Ethnic blanket prints became involved, too.
Denim Dress, made from 41 pairs of Levi 501’s by innovative eco-conscious designer Gary Harvey.
Rachael Cassar, in my opinion, is one of those designers working with reclaimed materials who really does it well. Her clothing speaks of couture and high-end embellishing— it doesn’t look dull in the monotone way eco-friendly or recycled clothing can, it looks fine and exciting. Read a nice interview with Rachael here.
Sid Vintage Jewelry. One glance at these reclaimed ‘tangled’ creations will clue you in as to why designer Nanci Bennett has really ‘caught the eye’ of eco-fashion connoisseurs and style mavens everywhere.
Jan 3, 2011, 07.32 PMby tabyaby
If you’re upcycling, I find it’s just somehow more a work of art which I like. Nothing will turn out equally except you have from two different pieces many… :) In my case so far I made different things out of others – check out my studio – but it wasn’t as special as the things you showed in your blog… inspiring, thank you
Jan 3, 2011, 12.33 PMby floresca11
anyone sick of carrying a bag can wear the jean dress. it doesn’t have a shortage of pockets. it looks lovely nonetheless. can’t imagine what those models in the lacy dresses are feeling. if they wore something underneath those dresses would look amazzing but i guess that would be the advertising gimmick. get people to share the image about the inappropriate stuff and at the same time get the dresses noticed.
Dec 28, 2010, 07.18 PMby ResurrectionRags
Wonderful post! Thanks for the mention. The link to my upcycled fabric flower actually goes to another person’s profile on flickr and my favorites. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluebutterflyart is the link to my flickr photstream Thank you :)
Dec 24, 2010, 06.07 PMby lanni-lantto
I’m an upcycling designer and I absolutely love it. Being able to breathe new life into items destined for the landfill- giving them the ability to get more compliments- is personally satisfying and tremendously helps our planet. I truly believe that reusing materials is going to be the way forward. Thanks for posting this topic!!!
Dec 23, 2010, 04.32 PMby marianne10
I too think this trend will last. Its just too good to let go of. Just looking at Rachael Cassar’s wonderful creations and the dress by Gary Harvey is enough to be sure that these trends will definitely survive and continue giving new life to past creations.
Dec 22, 2010, 07.52 PMby Jodi Bloom
The link to Ressurection Rags in your article actually connects to a photo posted to flickr of a dress that I made. I’m Jodi Bloom of jewelry site So-Charmed, and also make clothing, including the linked “Broken Teacup” dress under the moniker Sew Charmed. Appreciate the link… just mentioning that it is incorrect. Great article and great to connect with other upcycling fanatics.
Dec 22, 2010, 05.44 PMby amandatucker
The image that has all of the girls in white lace. The 2nd girl from the left….that was pretty nice…..otherwise there was just exposed nipples everywhere? The ring was clever also. I love upcycling, There has been some amazing stuff put out there! One of my favorite things to do that I have started doing this year was going to goodwill on the dollar days when I have a design block….I find a $1 dress or something, just to test myself. A ton of fun, and you can usually get a good laugh out of your finished look. =P
Dec 22, 2010, 05.11 PMby mlssfshn
Recylcing garments saved the sewing machine industry. The Seminole Indians recycled the clothing missionaries gave them to make their beautiful pactchwork, and are credited with saving the Singer home sewing industry. Recycling or upcycling garments is a part of history, be it Scarlet’s curtain dress or Andie’s prom dress, 2 movie moments that come to mind. I think recyling is here to stay, in some form or fashion.
Dec 22, 2010, 04.35 PMby monstery
unusual.that glove shirt. I thought I was recycing by cutting up old things,I never thought to keep them whole and just add to it like that.realy nice:]
Dec 22, 2010, 06.25 AMby hlh
Good Post. Up-cycling, recycling, what ever it’s called, it is a solid response to an overly advertised, commercialized, and expensive industry. I think it will last, there is really no need to produce more, when we have so much to work with.
Dec 22, 2010, 01.38 AMby estudio
Love the recreations – feminine and textural. Great inspiration!
Dec 22, 2010, 12.04 AMby pambox
the only realy upcyclin i’ve done so far is my tie dress, but i have used sheets and the lining from a dress to line a skirt. it is something i’m keen to try, starting these holidays with a skirt to top transformation (hopefully!). i tend to like vintage and kitsch fabrics, and there’s little in the way of really fun modern kitsch fabrics but thrift shops have kitsch sheets and curtains in spades. and for really cheap too. i find lots of the upcycled and reimagined garments have such great personality too.
Dec 21, 2010, 10.29 PMby AprilNicole05
Nice article but am I the only one who wishes the girsl in the last pic were wearing a bra? The clothes are beautiful and feminine… she could get by on her design talent alone without having to show everyone some poor twenty somethings nipples!
Dec 21, 2010, 09.58 PMby islandstyle
That jean dress must weigh a TON!
Dec 21, 2010, 09.36 PMby branwen74
I love that jeans dress. I’ve got some old jeans and that dress inspires me to not throw it away. Maybe I can make a nice skirt out of it.
Dec 21, 2010, 08.53 PMby gedwoods
I love the creativity present in the clothes you’ve shown us. Is this a trend? Yes, but that doesn’t mean it will pass in the short term. The world is changing around us – the economic downturn is a fluctuation, but the nature of the economy is shifting and public awareness of the need for sustainability is still growing. This “fashion” is a fluctuation, but on top of a much deeper, global, shift in our world that goes in the same direction. Being aware of the need for balance between new and recycled is not going to go away anytime soon.
Dec 21, 2010, 08.31 PMby dannygirl101
Meh, I’m not so keen on any of these so-called ‘up-cycled’ clothes. Seems more ‘down-cycled’ to me. Also, I’m not so keen on all the lace and sheer tops of Rachael Cassar. Can;t you put something on under them?!?!?!?!?!?!
Dec 21, 2010, 07.42 PMby kelepso
I love upcycling clothes. I find it to be so much fun, because it requires you to think outside of the box and to invent something very unique, using something that was once ordinary. Additionally, second hand clothes, sheets, etc at thrift stores are so affordable. I love garments and fabrics with character anyway, so upcycling is a great hobby for me.
Dec 21, 2010, 05.33 PMby missycas17
That jean dress is wow!
Dec 21, 2010, 04.59 PMby synthetase
I’m always thinking this way. It’s why i can’t bring myself to get rid of clothing and spend 30 minutes taking a zipper out of jeans. That or I’m crazy. :p
Dec 21, 2010, 04.43 PMby Minato Munna
In our collection of handmade necklaces, you can find the right piece for every event and mood; from short and elegant to long and bohemian, from loxurious gemstone inlayed pieces to gentle goldfilled ones, and more.
Dec 21, 2010, 04.14 PMby bodicegoddess589
I’ve only bought 2 or 3 new clothing items this year. I’m pretty proud of myself, actually. I went into 2010 trying not to buy anything new – only making new clothes from fabric, buying secondhand or a combination of the two. I actually ended up donating 2 loads of laundry to Goodwill this year, too. It’s kind of liberating.
1 Reply
Dec 21, 2010, 08.30 PMby alisondahl
Wow, that’s impressive. I also donated many clothes to Goodwill and a clothing swap this year, it felt so great to be rid of those pieces lurking in my closet that I have grown tired of— but someone new will come along and bring them back to life.
Dec 21, 2010, 03.28 PMby kimberleejean
I think this has always been done, regardless of whether designers are doing it at the moment, and it is definitely a trend that people on the street, as opposed to designers, can take credit for.
I lovingly remember my friends and I in the late 80s/early 90s making our own punk/goth outfits (these were the better days before pre-packaged punk stores). We’d scour Goodwill, antique stores, army/navy, and regular retail places then cut, sew, dye, write on, etc. I loved it!
1 Reply
Dec 23, 2010, 06.31 PMby threadsquare
Totally agreed! It’s always been around, and is now just a bit more mainstream, and has worked its way to high-end.
Dec 21, 2010, 03.01 PMby FabricUiPhoneApp
I’m not sure today’s re-use is nearly as clever as what was done in war-torn France in the 1940s. They truly had little to work with and everything they did was very clever. While we’re in a recession, stateside we haven’t seen the effects of the war overseas and there is no rationing going on…yet.
Dec 21, 2010, 11.26 AMby ruthw
I like Rei Kawakubo’s work very much – I am also a Miyake fan. Japanese designers know fabric so well. Margiel’s stuff is a bit ho-hum. Oh lots of beads and a bit of fabric. Wow! Straight from the kiddie’s dressing-up box. I don’t like Rachael’s work much either. According to this picture, she uses the shock-value of displaying young women’s naked breasts to get attention. It’s exploitative. You can be feminine without lookign desperate for attention.
Dec 21, 2010, 09.59 AMby belfin
Although, upcycling can be more difficult than making a clean fresh garment out of a well cut pattern and some great fabric, the existing configuration of a garment can lead to some very unique lateral thinking. The result can be most profound! This is how I learned to sew. From 2nd hand clothes when I was studying Law at University, I freely explored Re-Creation. This appealed to my frugal farm-raised sensibilities and catered to my want to destroy and create – so necessary when you are young and full of new thought. Now the Law Career is gone and I am a full time fashion designer and pattern maker. Upcycling will never die. It will simply be called new things. Thanks to the above designers for showing us that upcycling is not just the playing ground of the newly sewing but also a craft of the Masters.