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Selection of lining fabric is probably one of the most neglected steps in sewing. While we carefully choose the quality, type, drape and color of fashion fabric, time and money is often saved on linings. I used to be ignorant about linings myself, using polyester for almost every project. Only once I became interested in couture sewing, I learned that silk linings – characteristic for couture – could considerably improve the look and the feel of a garment.

However, silk is available in a different weight, weave and quality. Which one to choose? The following sampling represents some of the most common choices in couture. Use these luxurious textiles for your special projects, or –if budget is not an issue – for everyday clothing as well.

Silk for Comfort

You will hardly find silk lining in a ready-to-wear garments, which use less expensive options, such as polyester and acetate, for example. While budget is an important consideration in home sewing as well, silk is well worth the investment, as it breathes wonderfully and is mostly stain and wrinkle resistant.

What makes silk even more desirable in lining is that it can adjust to body temperature: it feels cool in summer, and warm in winter (to me, this is the main advantage over rayon, with a medium-weight Bamberg Ambiance being more affordable and durable alternative to silk).

Finally, silk is so much easier to sew than synthetics or rayon!

The following five silk fabrics are my personal favorites for linings. Read on to find out why.

China Silk (or Habotai)

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This plain-weave fabric is the lightest lining option, except for rarely used chiffon. Because of the weight, china silk is an excellent choice for ‘cooler’ and more delicate blouses, jackets, skirts or pants. However, china silk is also less durable, so avoid using it for very fitted garments, or garments that you will wear frequently.

Available in 45” width and rather limited color choice, this fabric can be hand-washed, but will loose some of its characteristic crispness.

Silk Twill

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The fabric on the image is a heavier weight silk twill. Use lighter weight for lining!

Silk twill is heavier than china silk, but is lightweight enough to use for summer clothing or delicate wear. What makes silk twill a great choice is its characteristic weave, which provides more durability and opacity than china silk. If you need to line white summer pants, try silk twill. However, be aware of the fabric quality – it can vary greatly!

Silk Crepe de Chine

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Silk crepe de chine is another great lining, with a weight that places it between light- and medium weight fabrics. Being more substantial, more durable and drapier than china silk, it is my preferred choice for summer dresses or jackets. It has less shine than silk charmeuse and is offered in 45” width, so calculate your yardage accordingly.

Silk Charmeuse

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Welcome to medium-weight silks, with silk charmeuse providing more structure and drape than lightweight silks! However, the weight of silk charmeuse can vary greatly, with lighter options placing this fabric right after crepe de chine. Most fabric stores will carry lighter to medium varieties of charmeuse, but look out for heavier weights as well. Selecting the right weight is easy, heavier lining goes with heavier fashion fabric.

Another great advantage of charmeuse is that you will find it in wide variety of colors and prints. And do consider prints for a statement jacket lining, for example.

By the way, you can pre-wash charmeuse (by hand!), but some luster will be lost. Experiment with a swatch first!

Silk Crepe Back Satin

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Quite an expensive choice, readers! This high-end silk is on the heavier side and is, therefore, a great lining for winter, adding warmth, elegance and breathability to a beautiful wool or fur coat!

~Marina


Marina von Koenig is a couture enthusiast documenting her couture learning experience on her blog Frabjous Couture. Check out her blog for more couture tips, techniques and tutorials and reviews of couture classes and books.

48 Comments

  • Missing

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    Oct 24, 2016, 07.51 AMby Vapeit All

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  • Missing

    Oct 22, 2016, 08.08 PMby Faiz Israili

    Thanks :-) I am your big fan too! By the way, I am still saving for the 5th choice – it costs more than the fashion fabric, phew :-o

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  • Missing

    Jun 6, 2015, 06.10 AMby VickiHouston

    Well among the best styles found here in your site which you think are the best for me that is the nice I like the idea.

  • Img_1598_large

    May 22, 2014, 01.35 AMby Cynsin

    It doesn’t appear that the silkworm is “boiled” with the cocoon, but, rather, removed before processing:

    Silkworm Cultivation Silkworm farms nurture millions of the tiny creatures, who subsist on a diet of mulberry leaves. Once fed, the silkworms spin cocoons made of silk thread around themselves.

    Cocoon Processing Workers select the cocoons best suited for silk production and separate the silkworms from their temporary homes. Steam then loosens the cocoon back into the form of thread.

    Spinning

    Read more: How is silk manufactured in China today? | Answerbag http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/2010557#ixzz32P73HmcS

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    Nov 14, 2012, 08.46 PMby KristinaBerisha

    I made a jacket with rocco barroco violet silk lining. Great choice

  • Missing

    Sep 12, 2011, 10.28 PMby rochelle49

    I, too have a fascination with silk! I have used china silk to line summer clothes. I love to get my silk from a local fabric store in metro Denver, Colorado. At, night when I’m thinking of projects to do, I go online to www.voguefabrics.com. they are located in Chicago, Ill. and have a good section and most is reasonably priced. they ship fabric and offer a swatch service. I stay away from the “big box national stores” as I feel their quality is less and they don’t have good prices.

  • Missing

    Aug 25, 2011, 11.34 AMby snow-day

    I bought silk to use as lining… and then remembered that the silk pupas in their cocoons are boiled alive for us to get the silk. So I don’t use silk at all. It’s too sad!!

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    Aug 24, 2011, 06.13 AMby patty72

    For some years ago I made two sommerdresses from a great 80` vintage silk. Bougth dresses needed a linning and I choose verry light silk. Since that time I always try to use silk linning becouse of the feeling against the skin. While the ironing is easier when both fabrics can tolerate same temperatur.

    I love the ídea of silk scarf used as linning – I´m gonna try that!

  • 597d73429ca0e90a2260ca4b792ad68d92ca4fd5_large

    Aug 24, 2011, 02.58 AMby katherinedaida

    I like this source for silks. They have the very best selection, and the prices are good. (Plus, they have been in business a long time!) http://www.thaisilks.com/

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    Aug 20, 2011, 01.51 AMby redrose12

    It can be very expensive, but I also adore sueded silk. It’s remarkably warm and feels slinky and luxurious. It also has a cool not-sheen that’s great if you want a garment lining to look understated but feel fantastic.

  • Img_20160222_155241214_large

    Aug 20, 2011, 12.15 AMby milkyway

    I love it.

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